Cupra R Engine Removal

[Johny]

Hi guys, im about to remove the engine from my Cupra R, the entire front end is removed,bumper,radiator wall,intercoolers,suspension entire subframe hubs driveshafts, downpipe, so i believe it should be pretty easy at this point to remove the engine? But I've never done it so any tips on where to start what needs to be removed and what doesnt ( what comes out with engine) also if i dont have an engine hoist or w.e its called, is it a good idea to lower the engine onto a pallet first and then once all the connectis etc are removed just raise the car? Thanks for any tips.

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[Thai-wronghorse]

For starters why are you removing the engine...replacement, rebuild or simply breaking the car?

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[Johny]

For starters why are you removing the engine...replacement, rebuild or simply breaking the car?

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Breaking The car, selling the engine complete with gearbox, turbo everything basically.

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[Thai-wronghorse]

Oh in that case I'd just fashion some sort of supporting brace from above, ideally metal but thick timber will suffice and then strap it up around it with thumb straps and ratchet straps so the length can be adjusted to lower it to the ground once the engine mount bolts have been removed.
I've done loads this way when breaking these cars until I finally bought an engine hoist a couple of years ago.
Just make sure you take the weight of the lump with a trolley jack to start with incase the upper support isn't up to the job.

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[Johny]

Oh in that case I'd just fashion some sort of supporting brace from above, ideally metal but thick timber will suffice and then strap it up around it with thumb straps and ratchet straps so the length can be adjusted to lower it to the ground once the engine mount bolts have been removed.
I've done loads this way when breaking these cars until I finally bought an engine hoist a couple of years ago.
Just make sure you take the weight of the lump with a trolley jack to start with incase the upper support isn't up to the job.

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Thanks mate, it's in a garage and it's going to be a real challenge to make a brace or something above it, would it not be possible to lower the front end onto a pallet so the engine is sitting on the pallet and then once all connections and mounts have been removed just raise the car up?

Also what steps should I take I mean what do I have to remove/disconnect first and what to leave for the last step I'm guessing the mounts should be done as the last step but I'm not sure what else I have to disconnect as there's so many hoses and connections and some of them obviously need to stay connected as they're part of the engine but I'm not sure which ones, thanks.

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[Thai-wronghorse]

The support brace sits on the inner wings, not above the car.
But yes a pallet underneath will do the job of reducing the space it can be dropped.
How do you plan to move it afterwards once it's on a pallet, is this a home garage?
In regards of pipework, you say you've already removed the slam panel / rad pack and exhaust so other than 2 coolant hoses going through the bulkhead there isn't anything else to disconnect if youre selling it all complete.

What have you done about the engine wiring looms?
Are these selling with the engine or separately?

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[Johny]

The support brace sits on the inner wings, not above the car.
But yes a pallet underneath will do the job of reducing the space it can be dropped.
How do you plan to move it afterwards once it's on a pallet, is this a home garage?
In regards of pipework, you say you've already removed the slam panel / rad pack and exhaust so other than 2 coolant hoses going through the bulkhead there isn't anything else to disconnect if youre selling it all complete.

What have you done about the engine wiring looms?
Are these selling with the engine or separately?

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It will ve collected by a delivery company that will load the pallet onto the van, the engine wiring is untouched for now but I am selling it with the engine so where should I remove it then? And one more question, would it be ok to lower the engine onto the pallet without anything else on the pallet I mean won't the sump be put under too much stress? I'm thinking something like a foam or something under the sump would be better, wouldn't it?

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[Thai-wronghorse]

Ok perfect then if its been collected by a courier with a pallet truck.
Ideally you'll want an old tyre below the sump pan to cushion and stabilise it.
Obviously the whole lot will need strapping down and wrapping before a courier will transport it though.

As for the wiring loom I'd leave everything on the block untouched and disconnect it from the scuttle and ECU and unclip it back through the bay then coil it all up in top.
Don't forget the post cat lambda sensor plug which runs beneath the car.

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[Johny]

Ok perfect then if its been collected by a courier with a pallet truck.
Ideally you'll want an old tyre below the sump pan to cushion and stabilise it.
Obviously the whole lot will need strapping down and wrapping before a courier will transport it though.

As for the wiring loom I'd leave everything on the block untouched and disconnect it from the scuttle and ECU and unclip it back through the bay then coil it all up in top.
Don't forget the post cat lambda sensor plug which runs beneath the car.

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Thanks for the tips mate, how about the power assisted steering hoses to the pump? I haven't yet looked into it but I've read somewhere the pump needs to be removed, is that true?

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[SlashProm]

Fuel lines and gear linkages. If your turbo is self supporting like the k03's then the 3 manifold to turbo bolts. You have made your life a lot easier by removing the radiator and front end. It might be worth getting a haynes manual for the car, or trying to find a pdf version online. They are very useful for these kind of procedures.

 

[Johny]

Fuel lines and gear linkages. If your turbo is self supporting like the k03's then the 3 manifold to turbo bolts. You have made your life a lot easier by removing the radiator and front end. It might be worth getting a haynes manual for the car, or trying to find a pdf version online. They are very useful for these kind of procedures.

Thanks mate, so the fuel lines, gear linkages, turbo bolts and what about the PAS lines?

 

[SlashProm]

I stripped my whole engine bay when getting my head skimmed, so I got most of the way to engine out and then some but never actually removed the engine. I did however have to remove and replace my PAS line when changing my clutch as I caught it on the gearbox. It's a large spanner at the rack, something like a 19-22mm, there is a small bracket under the starter motor area and another next to the engine mount. Assuming the PAS pump is coming off with the engine. Where the line goes into the pump, you have to remove the electrical connector, then grip the base of the sensor with some mole grips to loosen the sensor, once the sensor is removed, it will give you access to the nut required to remove the line from the pump with a spanner, again it was a big one, 22mm or so.

*Edit* You might be able to remove the sensor with a spanner, I had to use small mole grips as I had limited access, but you have the front end off so you should have more room.

 

[Thai-wronghorse]

I thought the gear shifter cables was an obvious one hence I didn't mention it.
The PAS pump can stay put but you'll need to disconnect the hoses either side of the steering rack.

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[Johny]

Thanks for the help guys, will have a go at it later today or tomorrow so will comment back as I go along.

 

[Johny]

I thought the gear shifter cables was an obvious one hence I didn't mention it.
The PAS pump can stay put but you'll need to disconnect the hoses either side of the steering rack.

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So I've got the power steering lines from the rack off, ECU out, fuel lines off, now trying to get the loom out but can't remove the second lambda sensor plug? If I pull it's like it's holding something down there but I've undone all the clips, tried moving the other harness out of the way and I notice that the plug has a connection with the cars harness?

 

[Thai-wronghorse]

If you've completely unclipped it back from cat and up along the chassis then it will come out.
Quite often the plug snags on the bits and pieces around the master cylinder though so be persistent.


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[Johny]

If you've completely unclipped it back from cat and up along the chassis then it will come out.
Quite often the plug snags on the bits and pieces around the master cylinder though so be persistent.


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Thanks mate, it came out in the end, had to remove the plastic sleeve that the cable is in and it was a lot easier then. So far I've removed :

1.PAS hoses from the steering rack

2.PAS hose from the fluid reservoir

3.Cut the two hoses going into the interior near the turbo intake pipe as they were stuck so just cut them now and will remove completely once engines out

4. Shifter linkages

5. Fuel lines

6. The lines running under the windscreen held on with 2 10mm nuts

Now I've got the harness pulled out but have to remove the battery under tray so get to them, need to drill out 2 bolts on the under stray to remove it. Once the harness is out I think the engine is ready to be lowered?

 

[Johny]

Looking at the engine from all sides there doesn't seem to be any connection to anything on the shell anymore. One thing I'm unsure of is the air conditioning hose, I'm pretty certain it needs to come off from the pump as the hose doesn't come with the engine does it?

 

[Johny]

The thick hose I mean.

And as for the harness is that all? Cheers

 

[Thai-wronghorse]

Sounds promising but would have thought that you'd have disconnected the AC line already seeing as the slam panel was previously removed.
Yeah the main AC line to the compressor needs to be undone.
I usually break the hardline off as well to allow more room when taking the engine out if I know its not needed.

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