I've ordered a new gasket for the manifold - I don't think it'll be up to much after 160k, but all the stuff I've taken off so far looks like it's in good condition.
I just came by a video where they filled the manifold with Mr Muscle and then used a jet wash to clean out the muck. That's more or less what I had in mind, so I must be on the right track.
I'm hoping after all this effort it's actually going to make a difference to performance...
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is the egr gasket ok? There not dear