FR 1.4 150 Ecotsi - engine rattling during ACT mode

[fikretsami]

hi everyone! my name is fikret and ı’m living in turkey.
ı have a Seat Leon fr 1.4. ecoTSI 150 hp ACT DSG, model year 2016. I want to ask a question. When my car is in two cylinder mode, at the 1500-2000 rpm, throttling the gas, ı hear weird/odd sound like “tırrrr, şkşkşkş” ı added a link, please help me

What will be cause this problem?


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[BoomerBoom]

If you read the rest of this thread you will see it's likely to be the turbo waste valve rod, unless you've got something else loose on your engine.

In ACT mode this engine vibrates a lot, anything not secured will rattle around.

 

[fikretsami]

If you read the rest of this thread you will see it's likely to be the turbo waste valve rod, unless you've got something else loose on your engine.

In ACT mode this engine vibrates a lot, anything not secured will rattle around.

Thanks for your reply.
yes ı read all of them and ı investigate lots of forums about this problem. In my country, Seat’s distributor doesn’t solve my problem. They said “no, this is ACT engine, the sound is normal”....
But ı think, it’s not a normal sound and there’ll be big problem.


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[Chester]

@fikretsami sounds like situation normal to me. That 'clicking' are the 2 outer injectors. They have a little more duty than when all 4 are in play so the sound is more prominent. Also you'll hear the actuators with the windows down too. If you're worried about it, wait for it to cool and do the actuator linkage check described earlier in the thread.

As for vibration, I'm guessing everything is relative but I believe the engine mounts dampen vibration exceedingly well, especially considering forces in 2-cylinder mode. Try riding a Kawasaki GPZ 500; that might put things in perspective!

 

[Jim45]

I know I have only completed 1800 miles in my new 150 FR but so far no ominous rattles in 2 cylinder mode and TBH I can’t tell any difference in noise levels or vibration between 2 or 4 cylinder mode.

 

[Chester]

If you've got a road with some buildings close to it along the road, open the windows and get into say 2nd at about 20MPH, neutral throttle, you'll hear it for sure!

Have you felt the 'bump' as you ask for torque whilst in eco mode invoking the middle cylinders? Can be a little jerky. The engine's more eager to come out of eco mode whilst in Sport.

 

[BoomerBoom]

Have you felt the 'bump' as you ask for torque whilst in eco mode invoking the middle cylinders? Can be a little jerky. The engine's more eager to come out of eco mode whilst in Sport.

Definitely, it's very lumpy when coming out of ACT mode at low speed. On balance I'd prefer to be able to disable ACT when the road speed is under say 40 mph; on a modern car it's an embarrassingly rough and noisy solution.

 

[silverbawz]

Hi
I have this engine in my car I can't hear or feel any notable differences when In act mode

 

[Jim45]

Hi
I have this engine in my car I can't hear or feel any notable differences when In act mode

I agree

 

[Seriously?]

Likewise, on SWMBO's ST, ACT operation is pretty much undetectable apart from the dash indication.

 

[fikretsami]

@fikretsami sounds like situation normal to me. That 'clicking' are the 2 outer injectors. They have a little more duty than when all 4 are in play so the sound is more prominent. Also you'll hear the actuators with the windows down too. If you're worried about it, wait for it to cool and do the actuator linkage check described earlier in the thread.

As for vibration, I'm guessing everything is relative but I believe the engine mounts dampen vibration exceedingly well, especially considering forces in 2-cylinder mode. Try riding a Kawasaki GPZ 500; that might put things in perspective!

For dealer it’s normal sound but if it’s normal, why other cars doesn’t make sound like my car. I’m so sad and ı checked my turbo wastegate there is some space on that rod. I’ll go to the service again and show them that rod.

Thank you for your reply.


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[fikretsami]

Definitely, it's very lumpy when coming out of ACT mode at low speed. On balance I'd prefer to be able to disable ACT when the road speed is under say 40 mph; on a modern car it's an embarrassingly rough and noisy solution.

ı agree


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[fikretsami]

I agree

when ı bought my car (about 2016 august) there was a very silence ACT engine. But approximately 2 months, ı hear that weird sound.


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[BoomerBoom]

Update. After 3,000 miles from new the rattling noise has suddenly stopped.

When hot or cold I can't hear it anymore, even in places where it used to make me grit my teeth as it was so intrusive.

I can hear the actuators switching on and off still, with a little lurch as they go off, but the rattle has suddenly vanished.

The dump valve rod appears unchanged, still with a little play at each end, so it looks like that wasn't the cause anyway.

Only think I can think of is something has bedded in, reducing engine vibration in ACT mode, or something was loose and has now fallen off!

 

[jarek010101]

@fikretsami Did you finally find out the reason of this sound ? I have the same issue

 

[jarek010101]

So, I've just fixed my Leon. It's definitely the dump valve rod

 

[aliprice]

Hello guys i contact you from italy. Sorry for my bad english.
I have the same noise on my audi a3 1.5tfsi, only in cod mode.
Anyone have solved this problem?

 

[Mr Pig]

You guys have correctly identified it. It's the turbo actuator linkage shown in the pictures and video.

My car is very smooth. You cannot feel it changing to eco mode and there is no vibration at all. I cannot hear the rattle with the windows closed but I cam with them open. The rattle is that little linkage rattling around so nothing serious. It has been left quite loose as it can cause bigger problems is it seizes, which they can do.

You can't put a rubber grommet in there as the linkage gets very hot. You can't even use normal grease, it's gets too hot for that too. What you want to do is get high-temperature grease and work it into the turbo end of the linkage. Ideally you want to take the linkage off to get the grease right in but access is very difficult. Just working the grease in will do the job.

This will shut the linkage up for a while at least. You might need to grease it every six months or so but at least you know what it is and know it's not a serious problem.