Lcr running problems

[hydroextreme]

I bought a lcr a few weeks back with a fault. When under load SOMETIMES it surges and then hessitates as soon as it does this the car then over fuels and doesnt run right tick over is lumpy but it is still drivable just costs more on fuel and isn't as smooth. Any one able to help with that or will I need to do some logs to find out ?The person I bought it of says he has replaced the n75,maf and has changes some pipe work for silicon and took the throttle body apart and cleaned that with no look..

The things that the car has had done on it when I got it was

Hybrid turbo
Stage 2 rep map (apparentyl)
Ram air filter
Cobra exhaust with decat

Since getting the car i put a 007 recirculation valve on and as of yesterday bypassed the n249 by putting a hose from the dv to the inlet and put a front mount on and since putting a front mount on yesterday I put my foot down and in 3rd it held back at around 3/4000 revs and acted as if that was it's limit and seemed bogged down now it's still running standard tip atm as I carnt find a over sized red tip! Could this be colapsing causing this to limit out as explained about or could this be something else?

 

[mty12345]

It could be, but then it could be loads of other things too. Have you scanned it for fault codes?

Like you say i think you should probably run some logs and post them up, with so many variables it's just guess work without some data.

 

[hydroextreme]

What's the best tooling to buy for fault finding? I was going to buy a race diagnostics that goes into your vent at the end of the month that will be good enough or will I need something properly like a laptop version?

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[hydroextreme]

Anyone?

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[Andrewwright]

VAG-COM is used on these vehicles.
Search and you will probably find someone close to you.

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[mty12345]

Yeah vagcom/vcds is whats really needed. OBD2 readers will read some codes, but only VCDS can read all the extra VAG codes and rese the throttle body etc etc.

VCDS home page. http://www.ross-tech.com/index.html

VCDS uk distributor.https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV23.html

 

[DrewCole]

If he took the throttle body apart to clean it, I believe they need to be reset with VAGCOM after doing so. That could be part of it.

I would get it scanned and also taken to a good mappers who can confirm what has been mapped and if the fueling is correct.

 

[hydroextreme]

What happens if it isn't reset? I also thought this and sometimes it ticks over at 2000 revs as well and then the throttle sticks on when putting the clutch down when in motion doing speed it has a final slight rev then holds then backs of as if it's a time delay after iv already took my foot of the throttle.

I'm still yet to get it plugged in I'm going to see a company this weekend and see if they will check the map out and see if there's anything wrong on that side of things

Iv also bought a tip so I'll get that fitted soon as it comes to narrow the standard tip collapsing under boost if that's what it keeps doing when under boost.

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[hydroextreme]

Will buying one of these be just as good as a vag com? Meaning can this reset the throttle body etc etc

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[mty12345]

Only VCDS can read all the extra VAG codes and reset the throttle body etc etc.

VCDS home page. http://www.ross-tech.com/index.html

VCDS uk distributor.https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV23.html

^^^

 

[hydroextreme]

Right. Iv had the car plugged in and it came back with a 02 censor and a maf the maf I'm guessing is because I unplugged it last week to try the car to see if it ran better and it didn't so the guess was the maf fault code is for that.

The 02 censor I do no before I bought the car it had a decat put on it and was just a welded pipe and I have read in the past people put some sort of spacer or something in the censor if that is the same 02 censor? To stop what ever it is that happens when done. Soon as the codes were cleared the car ran great took it out and it sputtered a little then cleared it's self out and drove fine after that. So if bought some new spark plugs to go in as my guess is with it over fuelling so much it's not going to of done much good to the plugs.

On the way home it did surge once or twice but didn't act as bad as it has been some how.

Also got the throttle body reset to see if that fixes anything with the throttle issues and it's still the same so next thing is to clean it out and try that see if that stops the throttle sticking on and ticking over high some times.

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[mty12345]

What was the fault code for the O2 sensor? ........without that code, you can't tell if it's the pre or post cat sensor.

The one before the cat controls the mixture and will need replacing if faulty.

The one after the cat does nothing other than monitor if the cat is working. That is the one where you can use the spacer to avoid the code.

 

[hydroextreme]

Aw so the second one doesn't fix anything other than a light? I'm not sure what the code actually was as if just finished work and rushed over before he shut shop so it was just last min thing he wiped the codes and says to run it and we will plug it back in and see what comes up today if he goes into work

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[hydroextreme]

So if changed my tip today. And the car seems better for a wile then it started over fuelling again. On swapping the tip over I noticed the n75 has the C at the end of the part number but if read alot that these have the F could mine possibly have the wrong one fitted? Iv done some searching but there isn't much mention of the n75 with the C at the end of the code

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[hydroextreme]

?

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[irf]

TBH it seems like youre chasing your tail. Get a code reader and go from there. Yes you can spend a lot of money on vag com but you can get code readers that will cost under £20 and while nowhere near as capable as vag com will at least give you some idea.

I bought one myself and used it a few times, read codes no problem. It's in th car right now and nowhere near me but just done a search on the forum and a u281 code reader came up as recommended.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sis.html?...ault+Code+Reader&_trksid=p2047675.m4099.l9146

The liquid gauge also reads and erases codes but obviously costs a lot more. I'm sure there's an option on it for resetting throttle but I haven't used this feature yet so can't comment really.

Like. Say they're nowhere near as capable as vag com but all you need to do is read codes. These will do that. I would offer to come to you but you're way too far in Sunderland, I'm in London. Best of luck.

 

[hydroextreme]

Well i have finally had time to get it plugged back in. Turns out the fault code is for the first exhaust sensor so I'm Gunna get one on order in the morning and get that fitted. In the mean time iv got some new plugs to go in so I'm going to do the plugs and the sensor and then clean the throttle body out and see if that fixes the reving problem I'm having

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[mty12345]

Make sure you disconnect the battery when swapping that O2 sensor. It's very easy to fry the ECU otherwise.

 

[hydroextreme]

Well iv fixed the problem with changing the 02 sensor and the plugs and also cleaned the throttle body reset the codes and reset the throttle body.

Car now runs perfect does have the odd flat spot but I'm going to take it to get the ecu/map looked at for that as there s no more fault codes came up.

Only problem it's having now is the throttle is still sticking on.

When throttling on hard you take the throttle of to change gear and as soon as you put the clutch down the revs build then build up slightly then hold then drop this lasts a good 5 seconds after removing the throttle maybe even 10 seconds. I have been told from a friend that it could be a air leak after the throttle body?
Is this correct?

Iv got some piping and angles already on order to do the catch can so hopefully when I do that it will stop happening if that could be the fault?

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[hydroextreme]

Well I decided to order a liquid gauge and plugged it in tonight. Got a fault code

17863

So after a read up turns out it's not a cheap sensor so I'm going to have a check on the wiring to make sure it's all intact as alot of people mention they have done that before buying a new one and it's fixed the fault. But (totally guessing by what iv read) but since the car was running stage 2 on a hybrid turbo when I got it with standard intercooler then maybe it could of been getting to hot causing it to now finally fail.

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