OK - so it has arrived and to get straight to the conclusion - its awesome!
I guess I should have taken a load of photos but decided that there is little point as it just looks like it does on the website - a black box containing the loom, DTUK FSR+ tuning box, wiring loom, cable ties, a blanking/loop back plug, receipt, fitting instructions and some bumf that I took no notice of as it was marketing stuff (I'll double check tomorrow and if meaningful post an update).
Fitting:-
I decided that rather than doing my usual approach of "how hard can it be" and jumping straight in I would read the instructions from cover to cover and absorb every word to see if the installation was as easy as the website leads us to believe. I noticed that the car in some of the pics was an Audi but that shouldn't detract as the rest of it looked familiar to the oily bits of the Leon.
I ventured out to the car, ran a diag scan of the engine ECU (using a cheap Amazon £6 bluetooth OBDII reader linked to my Android "Torque Pro" app - full version at not much money at all) to ensure that all was well prior to install.
Next, using the instructions provided I located the 3 sensors that would be patched into the new loom. The 1st 2 were very obvious, but the boost sensor is very much hidden from the top of the car. The instructions show the location from the bottom, and you have to remove the under tray to get to it. Needless to say, having the car raise so you can get somewhere underneath to see is essential. I happen to have some small drive on blocks that I use to raise the car about 4 or 5 inches and this was enough (my suspension is still in standard "moon buggy" spec and not lowered). The boost sensor is located right by a water pipe temp sensor so be careful to select the right one! It is a little tricky to remove but using the one on the new loom as a reference, you can see how it works and it pries off quite easily once the locking tab is released - you don't need force, but do need to be a little firm.
With each sensor plug removed, I ran in the loom feeding the fat end that will house the tuning box under the air intake pipe and resting it between battery and airbox, then using the supplied guidance to route the cables to their locations. I attached the positive battery lead directly to the battery terminal and then as per the instructions, connected the negative to the negative bonding point on the bulkhead just behind the battery (the instruction is very specific not to connect to the battery negative terminal). I left it all loose and then only applied the supplied cable ties once everything was connected fully and tested. To test the cabling, I simply installed the blanking plug supplied and started the car. I let it run, rev'd it a couple of times and then switched off. Scanned ECU for errors. None found.
Next I swapped the blanking plug for the DTUK box. I set the program to Map 3 +2 as I'd been advised by Andrew@DTUK and then retested as above. No errors.
Checked cabling routes for any potential fouling and then tightened the cable ties. Worth checking that the loom can't interfere with the fan on the rad, and that the ties are not rubbing water hoses etc.
Put the under tray back in place, put the engine cover back on (keeping cabling well hidden) and then went for the first drive.
