Irratic turbo boost isuue

[supersticky]

Yes pal, well most of the time.... If it went into limp mode sometimes I just slowed a little dropped it in to 1st or 2nd and away I went but in the end a had to blip the car off and on again then it cleared until the next day lol

Sent from my XT1572 using Tapatalk

 

[Grant1985]

Yeah sounds like mine, before I blanked off the egr it happened less tbh and I'd have to reader the car, but since I've done that to the egr 1st day or 2 it felt sluggish then the turbo would kick in and just take off out the blue now I got turbo all the time in 1st and 2nd till I hit 3rd, slow down drop to 1or 2nd and fine till I get to 3rd again lol its literally doing my head in big time

 

[supersticky]

All a distance memory for me now pal lol. I do think my turbo is getting on a little thou, my car's on 168000 miles, egr blanked and mapped to 192bhp so the turbo is stressed. Cracking motor thou, never misses a beat.

Sent from my XT1572 using Tapatalk

 

[Grant1985]

Also anybody got any idea how much vac pipe I'd need to buy to replace the whole lot of vac pipes? I'm thinking of replacing with blue pipe but it's sold by the meter unless I want more so I'm trying to find out how much in total il need to replace the entire lot and what size it is etc

 

[Grant1985]

What mods did you do to yours to get it to 192? And what engine is it? Mines a 130 but no idea which engine it is, well at least I think it's a 130bhp lol

 

[Thai-wronghorse]

If it's the 130bhp TDI engine it'll be the ASZ.
150bhp FR TDI is ARL.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

[Grant1985]

What's the best way to find out what engine it is?

 

[Thai-wronghorse]

There are a few ways to determine the engine code / power output.
You can either look for the code on the white build sticker that can be found inside your Seat service book.
Or on the white build sticker that should be beneath the carpet in the boot.
Sometimes there is also a smaller sticker to be found on the cambelt cover.
You could also post a picture on here as you can visually identify a lot of the engines by certain pipe and intake configurations.
Another way is to put your registration number into a car check website or app, a lot of these will give you the power output from the factory.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

[supersticky]

Mines a 150 ARL cupra tdi, mines had a de-cat, egr delete and mapped pal.

Sent from my XT1572 using Tapatalk

 

[Grant1985]

Asv? Or at least tit looked just like a very and not a z? Is there a tdi asv?

 

[Grant1985]

110bhp explains why I thought it was so slow lol

 

[Thai-wronghorse]

The ASV is the 110bhp non PD engine.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

[Grant1985]

Yeah that's a bummer

 

[Grant1985]

Can i still do the Mr muscle job on it if it's only a 110?

 

[Hardscupra16]

Very similar to mine I had a seat leon TDI on an 03 plate went into limp mode and struggled to get 60/70 I replaced a few bits being the cheaper option hoping wasn't the turbo to then finding out it was the turbo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Thai-wronghorse]

Can i still do the Mr muscle job on it if it's only a 110?

Yes, it's actually easier on these as they don't have the EGR cooler in the way like the ARL.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

[chriswales6]

Also anybody got any idea how much vac pipe I'd need to buy to replace the whole lot of vac pipes? I'm thinking of replacing with blue pipe but it's sold by the meter unless I want more so I'm trying to find out how much in total il need to replace the entire lot and what size it is etc

The actuator is control by the n75 valve (as mentioned by superstikcy), it’s the left hand one behind the engine. Google should have some pictures to show you. The correct way to check is removing the vacuum pipe from the valve and use a hand vacuum pump. The actuator rod should move under vacuum and remain in place until it’s released.

Vacuum pumps aren’t very expensive, but if you don’t want to buy one you could try sucking on the pipe .... but not sure if that would provide enough vacuum to move the rod. You could remove the pipe and check for holes. Or plug one end, connect the other end to a foot pump put it in a bucket of water and check for air bubbles when under pressure. But if you’ve gone to the trouble of removing it then you may as well replace it with a silicon pipe.

My 03 110 TDI still has its original vac lines and I’m planning to get them done soon. I think you’d need 3mm internal plus a short length of 5mm internal, but I’m not sure how much length you’d need.

Mr Muscle cleaner can be used on all MK1 TDI's (well apart from the TDI 90, that doesn't have variable vanes so would be a waste of time) For PD 130 & 150 it's easier to do it from underneath through the exhaust pipe. You can do it that way for the 110 or go through the EGR on the top side of the turbo. But if the control rod is moving freely then cleaning it again is unlikely to fix the problem.

 

[Grant1985]

Just a update, driven my car tonight and seems the turbo is only there in 2nd etc as said earlier but if I keep the revs going in 3rd sometimes once in a blue moon the turbo would kick in for a couple seconds then drop again, turbo stayed all the way through 3rd once till nearly recline, I read on another forum that there's a vac pipe coming from the brake servo to the vacuum pump and can split makes the brake pedal hard and loss of turbo, I also have a hard brake pedal so could this be a vacuum problem???? Seems odd that the turbo is there 1st and 2nd then only when it wants after that, plus I have the hard brake pedal, any help????

 

[Grant1985]

Anybody?

 

[mty12345]

Sounds like it could be the problem, a very hard brake pedal when the engine is running would suggest a vac leak to me. I'm not sure of the vac layout on the diesels so can't help more than that. Check the vac system 2moz and see if you can find a leak between the vac pump and the brake servo