Boost Gauge off the FPR or the DV??

[Bigjohn84]

Good lad, you will get there in the end you just need to listen to what people are saying and look at the picture properly

 

[Bigjohn84]

Just copy the picture, open your bonnet and find that small shiny fuel thingy Ma Bob lol can't spell haha and copy the pipe and T piece

 

[Bigjohn84]

No ones told me where to T into , we can't all be mechanics, but I'd like to try... If I have to replace a bit of tubing then I'd rather do that and have failed than never doing anything... I'm just going to do it from the top of the DV like another forum said....

And at the moment it is the only mod, but I'm 19 and I have to start somewhere, its my first car... And I love it, so will get to doing things to it, but this is a starting point for me... I have to start somewhere..

Oh I just read this, first car and you no nothing about cars, I would have started small mate and fannyed about with that engine first before you started tinkering with a good car, you will get there tho, just be careful as these cars don't hold back, you mess up your a gonner, your insurance will triple lol, everyone's hear to help but if you ask stupid questions people won't reply or they will just rip you, don't get on Big Bad Bens nerves cause he bites badly lol

 

[nitrome90]

My T piece is slightly different to his I think, his is on an angle where was mine will have to be the other way round, I think...

One of the ends looks like a pressure valve thing, so will look slightly different to his anyways?

Thanks

 

[mty12345]

My T piece is slightly different to his I think, his is on an angle where was mine will have to be the other way round, I think...

One of the ends looks like a pressure valve thing, so will look slightly different to his anyways?

Thanks

Your T piece is the same as his mate. Just cut right through the FPR hose where you want to "T-off" of and then use the "top, cross part of the T" to reconnect the hose together. Then you have the other "bottom Point" of the T to connect the pipe for your boost gauge.

If your engine bay looks different it's not a problem, the FPR will look identical and the pipe that you need to cut into is in the same place, it's the tiny pipe that runs to the top of the FPR as in the pic. They angle that it comes off at doesn't matter, as the pipe you are connecting is flexible and you should have enough room to route it easily enough.

 

[mty12345]

I'm 19 and I have to start somewhere, its my first car... And I love it, so will get to doing things to it, but this is a starting point for me... I have to start somewhere..

Keep going buddy, i'm 35 now and i learnt everything i know from doing my own work on my cars over the years and reading haynes manuals and books on engines etc.

I'd suggest getting a copy of elsawin from ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Elsawin-v...995888?hash=item1c5f99bfb0:g:ZMMAAOSwKtlWlDY1 and then you can sit and browse through all the info on there and learn about how the engine and other systems on the cupra are laid out. Also the haynes manual for the Mk4 golf covers the 180bhp engines (although not the 225bhp cupra R engine) http://www.amazon.co.uk/Petrol-Diesel-Service-Repair-Manual/dp/1844251691

My first car was a 1.3 litre 1986 rover and even that was daunting to work on when i was 17 and a complete beginner. You've done well having a cupra for your first motor, but you've certainly jumped in the deep end when it comes to learning about mechanics

The good thing is once you understand and can work on the 1.8T, then doing something on a mates fiesta will seem like childs play.

 

[mty12345]

Take plenty of pictures and make notes, label things. That way if and when things go wrong you have a point to return to.

Make sure you have the correct tools for the job and have enough parts to repair anything that goes wrong.

Take your time and give yourself time.

This is great advice, plenty of notes and pics and labeling stuff in snapbags is vital.

2 other very important things are:

Always disconnect the battery before working in the engine bay. If you touch a metal spanner between the positive connection of a componant and the body, you will get serious burns and/or a shock from the huge current in a car battery.

The 2nd thing is to never go under a car or have your legs etc under it, unless it is VERY well supported on axle stands or similar! Some bolts, the wheel hub nuts for instance, are extemely tight and undoing them can sometimes try to pull the car from the jack and axle stands.

 

[Haze]

I'll get some pictures up close of mine tomorrow, I wouldn't advise cutting into the original FPR hose just unclip it off and T it into your piping. That way it your piping for the boost gauge splits you can just pop the original back on? Iay be wrong

 

[nitrome90]

Thank you all for your advise! Taken note and will follow everything, Haze, you make a very good point about just unclipping it, and finding new hose to make the connection!

This is where I am up to at the moment...

Wires extended using 5Amp wire, which I found was recommended on another forum, ready to be scotch locked into the headlight switch tomorrow, following another old forum for the wiring guide...

T pipe locked onto the side I believe is right, but will find out tomorrow if I am wrong(probably )

Thanks again for all your helps guys

 

[nitrome90]

Just ordered some of this to make the connections

 

[Haze]

This is how mine currently looks and as far as im ware its working fine, I didnt know wether to go from the FPR or DV either but apparently its more accurate form the FPR.

 

[nitrome90]

This is how mine currently looks and as far as im ware its working fine, I didnt know wether to go from the FPR or DV either but apparently its more accurate form the FPR.

Thank you very much mate, this helps a lot! Just waiting for my forge hose to be delivered now

Scotch locking the wires later on today

 

[irf]

One thing to also bear in mind that you may or may not know, make sure you don't get any kinks in the vacuum pipe.

 

[addavis89]

I'd look into using insulated bullet connectors instead of scotchloks, makes a better reliable connection.

 

[nitrome90]

I'd look into using insulated bullet connectors instead of scotchloks, makes a better reliable connection.

Yeah I think I'm going to try scotch locks and then of that works, then I will solder the wires together, make a more permanent connection.

I've joined 2 of the connections together, which I read in another forum, and then the black for ground and the other for constant live

 

[ibizacupra]

This is how mine currently looks and as far as im ware its working fine, I didnt know wether to go from the FPR or DV either but apparently its more accurate form the FPR.

This is an example of "exactly how NOT to do it"

FPR should have its own vac pipe.

For DV, T off the N249/DV vac source.

You do not want to add longer pipes and joins onto the fuel pressure regulator as it adds both more potential leaks, and will slow down the response of the FPR to react to boost/vacuum changes, which directly effects the fueling.

Its NOT an advised mods.

 

[nitrome90]

This is an example of "exactly how NOT to do it"

FPR should have its own vac pipe.

For DV, T off the N249/DV vac source.

You do not want to add longer pipes and joins onto the fuel pressure regulator as it adds both more potential leaks, and will slow down the response of the FPR to react to boost/vacuum changes, which directly effects the fueling.

Its NOT an advised mods.

How would you advise me to it then mate? Like this? Saw this from another forum posted on SCN

How has there become such controversy on which method to do?!

 

[ibizacupra]

How would you advise me to it then mate? Like this? Saw this from another forum posted on SCN

How has there become such controversy on which method to do?!

As I have said.. take your feed off N249.
simples

There's many Wrong ways of doing it... Exhibits in this thread as examples
I build and work on these cars for a living.. Trust me dude. Take your feed from the N249, not the fpr

 

[nitrome90]

Just to let you guys all know, I have successfully connected it all up and figured it all out.

Thank you all for your help and input, I will be making a proper installation guide for people using GlowShift gauges as its a little different to the others, and think it might help people who are equally as clueless as me, to do this mod in as little time as possible.

Thanks again for your help - Ali

 

[DrewCole]

Just to let you guys all know, I have successfully connected it all up and figured it all out.

Thank you all for your help and input, I will be making a proper installation guide for people using GlowShift gauges as its a little different to the others, and think it might help people who are equally as clueless as me, to do this mod in as little time as possible.

Thanks again for your help - Ali

Good effort, guides are always welcomed.