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PVC removal and Catch can install (BAM Engine

Charlie20v

Active Member
Aug 15, 2012
30
0
Derby
I read on another website (wont let me post link) that the vapours from the crankcase need to end up back into the inlet to have a leaning effect on the fuel mixture. so would it be running rich if vented to the atmosphere?
 

nathan_20vt

Active Member
Mar 30, 2013
365
0
Kings Lynn, Norfolk
I really want to remove pcv and fit a can. My pipes under inlet manifold are getting oiley so want to remove it all. Just not sure how to plum it all in. So many different opinions.......
Mines a 2002 cupra auq btw
 
Last edited:

Hobbiniho

Active Member
Jan 17, 2009
545
9
shetland/ Aberdeen
That stuff as you call it is just imulsified oil ......... as said it lubes the valve guides

........ its just oil and pure water , both of which are found in engines ! People actually inject water into engines as I am sure you are aware . If you want to rip out a perfectly good vent system and spend time and money putting in an inferior one fine !;)

pretty sure that the valve guides/seals get lubricated from "above" as it were also as you have said it is emulsified oil so is considered "contamination" not something that i would want in the inner workings of the head/valve faces.

i take it by water injection you are talking about a water/meth style set up which is clean and has a high pressure injection right before the inlet, it doesn't have to go through turbo-intercooler piping-intercooler-intercooler piping like the emulsified oil does, also have you seen how clogged up some of those "perfectly good ventilation systems" get?? i know what i would rather have but if you are happy with running the standard system then carry on.

most of the people that are fitting catch cans are doing so because the standard system is failing because of perished hoses etc
 

285cupra-matty

Active Member
Oct 28, 2010
488
0
Harlow
Would be interesting to hear someone like Bills views on needing the vent them back in the TIP to keep things lubricated etc.

agree with this, bill knows his stuff so it would be interesting to hear what he has to say as there are so many conflicting opinions on catch cans and the pcv system on the 1.8ts
 

wildrides

Active Member
Dec 27, 2013
396
1
Valve guides are not lubed from above . There are valve stem seals to prevent this............... any how each to there own ! Lets agree to disagree:rofl::handbags:

I think the stock PVC pipes last pretty well considering the conditions they work in . Mine are still intact after 11 years ( no leaks yet ) but are admitedly getting a bit tired in the odd place on the outside ....... mainly through rubbing / vibes.:whistle:
 

Greavesy

Active Member
Jun 30, 2013
380
0
Donny
I think the stock PVC pipes last pretty well considering the conditions they work in . Mine are still intact after 11 years ( no leaks yet ) but are admitedly getting a bit tired in the odd place on the outside ....... mainly through rubbing / vibes.:whistle:

Whatever you do to your car in your own time is your own business lol
 

Hobbiniho

Active Member
Jan 17, 2009
545
9
shetland/ Aberdeen
Valve guides are not lubed from above . There are valve stem seals to prevent this...............
i think you will find they are, the seal lets past a tiny amount of oil to lubricate the valves, i suspect that it would most likely be capillary action that gets the oil to the valve stems as the amount that is needed is so tiny
 

bigT's lcr

Delete. Beat. Repeat...
Feb 27, 2016
1,216
732
Leeds
I know that this has been covered in separate threads before but I've just done this on my LCR, BAM engine so I thought I'd write it up.

(Mods, if this is in the wrong place please feel free to move it)

Stuff you'll need is:

For VAC removal.

8mm silicone bung (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270967905...eName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
one way valve (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400579175...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)

For catch can.

catch can (I actually made my own from a aluminum drinks bottle)
19mm ID pipe (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330673712...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649) This is cheap and cheerful stuff.
19mm OD Aluminum bung (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290654289...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)
18mm Breather filter (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330803496...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)


If you're making your own can you'll also need

3 19mm straight plastic joiners
some metal to make a bracket

and a selection of jubilee clips
2 M6 bolts and nuts
1 M8 bolt, washers and nuts
some oil resistant sealer (I used some left over from when I dropped the sump)
Chemical metal

Important notes:

If you do this and something breaks / damages your engine it isn't my fault.
I did this and it is working fine with no issues.

Take care when routing the pipework, there are plenty of sensors and other pipes in the way.

The catch can I made vents to atmosphere.
If you want to re-circ. it, don't bung the TIP up, add another pipe from the catch can to the TIP.

Secure all pipework / bungs with suitable Jubilee clips.


Right then, to remove the PVC system you need to take out the following pipe assembly.


(Borrowed from RDS, if you want me to change this I will)

pipes on the left are from the left hand side of the inlet manifold.
middle pipe sticking up is from under the middle of the manifold.
the elbow on the lower right was left in position after removing the clip from the T-piece.
the pipe on the top right joins up with the breather from the head of the engine.

This is a bit fiddly to remove, you'll need to take the dipstick pipe out, along with the plastic trim piece.
Here's a link to Ebay for a replacement dipstick pipe for when you snap it like I did: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171208721898?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Once you've removed the PVC assembly the pipe on the that runs over the hotside pipework will not be connected to anything, put in the new one way valve and add in a piece of pipe that will connect it back upto the inlet manifold.
*Will double check the direction of the valve asap. You'll know if its wrong because you wont be able to press your brake pedal down.

The pipe coming off the underside of the intake manifold should be covered with the 8mm silicone bung.

For now leave the elbow open, clean out as much crap as possible (DON'T FOR THE LOVE OF GOD GET ANYTHING STUCK IN OR DOWN IT!!)

_

Now remove the breather pipe going into the head, again remove any crap.
(Front, right hand side of the head, when looking at the engine)

On the Turbo Intake Pipe remove the breather pipe, it should be obvious which one it was as it will be connected to the pipe you've just removed.
Take the 19mm Aluminum bung and block up the hole. This will allow you to vent to atmosphere.

Once you've decided where to put your catch can bolt it into position. As in my LCR I have a 3.2 TT brace it has two small brackets welded onto it, I mounted it off there.

Cut two lengths of pipe, length will depend on location of catch can.

Now connect one end of a pipe upto the elbow above the oil filter, lay the pipe upto the catch can and connect it up.

Take the other pipe and connect it upto the port off the head and the other end upto the catch can.

Secure all clips up and fire up the engine to make sure everything is ok.

Here are a load of pictures of my setup.










Any questions fire away.
Also if anyone notices any mistakes I've made let me know lol.
Hi do you do anythimg with the brake servo pipe. It looks like its connected to pcv. Cheers
 
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