paul-murphys
efr 6758 here i come
also speak to bill i got my fuel pump fittings off him and the pump off ebay but he does supply them 
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Thats good to know, while i can see adjusting the ride height this way doesn't affect the spring compression is very beneficial, i am just wondering how this pans out in real life, I.E is it gonna be a complete pain in the hole to adjust them.
They came in at a very very attractive price of £640 incl VAT, which is less that the Eibach Pro-street-S, which is a basic coilover.
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also speak to bill i got my fuel pump fittings off him and the pump off ebay but he does supply them
How loud is the fuel pump, also where did you mount it, i could not see it in your RR, i couldn't get past the NOS kit which looks quiet mental.
They are just like adjusting normal coilovers apart from rotating the threaded section to adjust the height rather than the spring seat.
WOW!!!
£640 is an awesome price
Seems a brilliant way to adjust them, the way coilys SHOULD be adjusted
and
on the price, fantastic!
paul-murphys
efr 6758 here i come
its really loud mate and ive put mine where the fuel filter was and brought a small filter which is in the engine bay the fitting bill sells makes it easy to fit then i wired it off the original fuel pump wires but taking the plate under the rear seats off,
paul-murphys
efr 6758 here i come
I got them from here, I plan to install these next week, bearings etc.... Arrive tomorrow, at the mo I am just getting myself up to speed with spring rates, preload and reading other peoples DIY's with them.
Since found these are practically the same as the buddy club coilovers and there is plenty of info floating around about setting them up.
Here is the link
https://japshop.secured-area.co.uk/...2 s28&PN=SEAT-D2-RACING-SHOP.html#a3506#a3506
Since found these are practically the same as the buddy club coilovers and there is plenty of info floating around about setting them up.
Here is the link
https://japshop.secured-area.co.uk/...2 s28&PN=SEAT-D2-RACING-SHOP.html#a3506#a3506
Robbie,
Do you know if the picture in the link is the actual set or not?
It looks like these mount from below which I can see several issues with.
I wonder if the opening on the turret is large enough to allow access to the camber adjustments?
I wonder if there is enough space for the plate inside the turret?
Also there will have to be holes drilled to mount these bolts.
If you have an S3 upper strutt brace this bolting will cause issues too.
But if its not then none of this will matter, ha ha
Do you know if the picture in the link is the actual set or not?
It looks like these mount from below which I can see several issues with.
I wonder if the opening on the turret is large enough to allow access to the camber adjustments?
I wonder if there is enough space for the plate inside the turret?
Also there will have to be holes drilled to mount these bolts.
If you have an S3 upper strutt brace this bolting will cause issues too.
But if its not then none of this will matter, ha ha
Hi Willie,
We dont need the camber plate as our camber is adjusted from the hub iirc.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lz1kgSUyUNY
Yeah we have camber adjustment between our wishbones and the ball joints but for increased camber we need adjustable top mounts.
I've got -1.6* front and -1.2* rear with the OEM set up and KWV3 coilovers. Any more is not possible for me without adjustable top mounts.
When you corner hard the more -ve camber you have the more grip you have as your tyre flattens out on cornering giving amazing traction. This linked in with good castor makes for big smiles in corners.
I've been running -1.6* for years with no unusual tyre wear but great cornering fun
I've been running -1.6* for years with no unusual tyre wear but great cornering fun
Thanks Willie, I'm a noob when it comes to camber so some stupid questions might be coming your way.
Out of interest how did you come to -1.6* camber, trial and error? I assume any tracking place could do this for me or do I need additional hardware?
Out of interest how did you come to -1.6* camber, trial and error? I assume any tracking place could do this for me or do I need additional hardware?
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OE front camber spec is -0.5 plus or minus 0.5 degree from memory
Last trackday i did i took mine to a garage with a bloke who sets up track cars and my camber was pulled out to -1.5 degrees, this gives much better turn in without eating the inside of tyres too badly
He was also going to bring the toe in by 0.2 but i deceided to keep it straight as this would increase tyre wear.
The rear is more difficult to adjust and is only really done by shimming
Last trackday i did i took mine to a garage with a bloke who sets up track cars and my camber was pulled out to -1.5 degrees, this gives much better turn in without eating the inside of tyres too badly
He was also going to bring the toe in by 0.2 but i deceided to keep it straight as this would increase tyre wear.
The rear is more difficult to adjust and is only really done by shimming
A Moron installed my Clutch Master cylinder
Cheers for the advice lads, that’s what I love about this site. When the suspension gets changed this week (hopefully) it will need to be tracked again, I might get them to look at the camber.
On another note, I tackled changing my Clutch master cylinder on Saturday, this was only changed a few weeks ago but I was not happy with the job, moreover I didn't trust the mechanic (of whom I will never use again), I was wright not to trust him.
I didn’t do this job the myself first time around simply because I didn’t have time and it’s a fairly basic procedure so I was happy to off load it, well the old saying rings through, if you want something done right, then do it yourself.
When I got all the lower dash out upon first inspection I started to see problems, one of the master cylinder washers was resting precariously in the steering mechanism by the firewall and along with this the pedal stop for the clutch was also not reinstalled, this of course was after I noticed all the screws for the dash and fuse board were missing.
So as I proceed to undo all the nuts, screws, etc. from the cabin side it time to move into the engine bay.
I started with draining the master reservoir to below the feed line for the master cylinder as to remove the pipe, not a problem, hold on, why was half the nipple for the reservoir feed sawn off, and why the absolute fcuk do none of the lines have retaining clips where they should be, ohhh and what’s this all my fuel lines are not clipped into place along with all the heat shielding for the cabling not put back , I ask what sort of moron did this job, worse is yet to come.
So after the usual fiddling about to get the pipes off and the pedal mechanism out it was time to examine the master cylinder upon which time I noticed this was not the master cylinder I provided for the job( I know because I take pictures of everything and the one I provided did not have stickers on it)
So there are a few scenarios here.
1. He attempted the job, got half way through and thought, fcuk this, this is too much of a PITA, I'll put back the bits and just tell the customer, job, done.
2. Made the mistake of doing the job and accidently reinstalling the master cylinder he just took out, I'm sure the 2 parts would have been sitting on the ground at some stage and easily mixed up, upon noticing his mistake, he thought, fcuk that, it’s a PITA, Just tell the customer, job done.
3. He kept the new part I provided and installed a second hand part he had lying around, assuming I would never check his work.
I am totally livid, I could not get hold of the guy on Saturday as they were closed, I guess lucky for him as I felt so outraged I could have done something I might later regret. Like this is not rocket science, I can only presume this guy is a total moron.
Anyway I did the job, (properly) and bolted all the bits back the way they should be, I didn’t get a chance to bleed the system as family matters, AKA a crying baby and a stressed out wife deflected my attention, I will hopefully get to it tomorrow.( the car that is,
)
So to recap, in future any jobs that need to be done I will do myself, I am more than competent, I just need to make time for them, lesson learned.
Sorry for boring you all.
P.S He also managed to brake all the clips on my side shirts from jacking the car up in the wrong place, why did he need to jack it up anyways, this sort of sh1t makes my blood boil, i've put to much time and care into this car for some idiot to come along and do a butcher job on it.:w4nk:
Cheers for the advice lads, that’s what I love about this site. When the suspension gets changed this week (hopefully) it will need to be tracked again, I might get them to look at the camber.
On another note, I tackled changing my Clutch master cylinder on Saturday, this was only changed a few weeks ago but I was not happy with the job, moreover I didn't trust the mechanic (of whom I will never use again), I was wright not to trust him.
I didn’t do this job the myself first time around simply because I didn’t have time and it’s a fairly basic procedure so I was happy to off load it, well the old saying rings through, if you want something done right, then do it yourself.
When I got all the lower dash out upon first inspection I started to see problems, one of the master cylinder washers was resting precariously in the steering mechanism by the firewall and along with this the pedal stop for the clutch was also not reinstalled, this of course was after I noticed all the screws for the dash and fuse board were missing.
So as I proceed to undo all the nuts, screws, etc. from the cabin side it time to move into the engine bay.
I started with draining the master reservoir to below the feed line for the master cylinder as to remove the pipe, not a problem, hold on, why was half the nipple for the reservoir feed sawn off, and why the absolute fcuk do none of the lines have retaining clips where they should be, ohhh and what’s this all my fuel lines are not clipped into place along with all the heat shielding for the cabling not put back , I ask what sort of moron did this job, worse is yet to come.
So after the usual fiddling about to get the pipes off and the pedal mechanism out it was time to examine the master cylinder upon which time I noticed this was not the master cylinder I provided for the job( I know because I take pictures of everything and the one I provided did not have stickers on it)
So there are a few scenarios here.
1. He attempted the job, got half way through and thought, fcuk this, this is too much of a PITA, I'll put back the bits and just tell the customer, job, done.
2. Made the mistake of doing the job and accidently reinstalling the master cylinder he just took out, I'm sure the 2 parts would have been sitting on the ground at some stage and easily mixed up, upon noticing his mistake, he thought, fcuk that, it’s a PITA, Just tell the customer, job done.
3. He kept the new part I provided and installed a second hand part he had lying around, assuming I would never check his work.
I am totally livid, I could not get hold of the guy on Saturday as they were closed, I guess lucky for him as I felt so outraged I could have done something I might later regret. Like this is not rocket science, I can only presume this guy is a total moron.
Anyway I did the job, (properly) and bolted all the bits back the way they should be, I didn’t get a chance to bleed the system as family matters, AKA a crying baby and a stressed out wife deflected my attention, I will hopefully get to it tomorrow.( the car that is,
)So to recap, in future any jobs that need to be done I will do myself, I am more than competent, I just need to make time for them, lesson learned.
Sorry for boring you all.
P.S He also managed to brake all the clips on my side shirts from jacking the car up in the wrong place, why did he need to jack it up anyways, this sort of sh1t makes my blood boil, i've put to much time and care into this car for some idiot to come along and do a butcher job on it.
:w4nk:
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