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Well I did my brakes over the last couple of days - new yellowstuff pads fitted all round and new brake fluid flushed through the system. Here's a quick summary, I've never done pads and fluid before:
REAR BRAKES - easy enough but the drivers side piston would not budge, after much swearing I finally got it to start moving using the windback tool. Passenger side moved easily and took no time at all to do.
FRONT BRAKES - being Tarox 6-pots, the pads looked easy enough to change, 2 bolts slide through the pads to hold them in place. However, one bolt was corroded/seized/welded in place and would not budge at all, ended up having to drill it out - not fun! The other 3 bolts came out easily, fortunately drilling the 4th one out went well and eventually out it came. Swapping the pads over after that was simple.
FLUID - The Gunson Ezibleed is a fantastic bit of kit, made doing the fluid very easy. Once it was set up and pressurised using the spare wheel, it's just a case of going round the brakes and bleeding each caliper until the fluid runs amber (I was switching from ATE blue to ATE amber), no air bubbles, do all four and that's it.
The old pads were fairly knackered, one of the rears was cracked, all four had seen better days. Takes 200 miles to bed the new yellowstuff pads in so can't really say what they're like yet, but after a test run the pedal is nice and firm and the new pads have good bite right from the off, so I am pleased with my work and choices so far.
I looked at these threads for guidance:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=483838
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=480733
No pics as I had to do this job in-between rain showers!
REAR BRAKES - easy enough but the drivers side piston would not budge, after much swearing I finally got it to start moving using the windback tool. Passenger side moved easily and took no time at all to do.
FRONT BRAKES - being Tarox 6-pots, the pads looked easy enough to change, 2 bolts slide through the pads to hold them in place. However, one bolt was corroded/seized/welded in place and would not budge at all, ended up having to drill it out - not fun! The other 3 bolts came out easily, fortunately drilling the 4th one out went well and eventually out it came. Swapping the pads over after that was simple.
FLUID - The Gunson Ezibleed is a fantastic bit of kit, made doing the fluid very easy. Once it was set up and pressurised using the spare wheel, it's just a case of going round the brakes and bleeding each caliper until the fluid runs amber (I was switching from ATE blue to ATE amber), no air bubbles, do all four and that's it.
The old pads were fairly knackered, one of the rears was cracked, all four had seen better days. Takes 200 miles to bed the new yellowstuff pads in so can't really say what they're like yet, but after a test run the pedal is nice and firm and the new pads have good bite right from the off, so I am pleased with my work and choices so far.
I looked at these threads for guidance:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=483838
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=480733
No pics as I had to do this job in-between rain showers!
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If you're wondering why yellowstuff pads rather than genuine Tarox pads on the front ... Tarox pads are £160 and yellowstuff are £75 ... that's why!!!
Here's some pics:
Front:
Rear:
Old pads:
Rear pads were all cracked and falling apart:
Fluid flushed through using the Gunson Eezibleed and ATE Typ 200 fluid (same as Super Blue just a different colour, easy to see when the old blue was flushed out):
Front:
Rear:
Old pads:
Rear pads were all cracked and falling apart:
Fluid flushed through using the Gunson Eezibleed and ATE Typ 200 fluid (same as Super Blue just a different colour, easy to see when the old blue was flushed out):
good bit of kit the bleed kit rob ive got 1 bought it last year to do me brakes.
ive been running the yellow stuff pads for 2 year now they do take along time to bed in but the very good once there bedded in. there pritty rubish when there cold but once warm there good.
ive been running the yellow stuff pads for 2 year now they do take along time to bed in but the very good once there bedded in. there pritty rubish when there cold but once warm there good.
yellows on my S6 work from cold.. reds did'nt (work hardly at all)
I dont get why there are differences from what should be the same pad material..
I dont get why there are differences from what should be the same pad material..
The yellows seem very good from cold for me too, better than the old Tarox pads which seemed to need some heat in them before they would bite hard. So far I am happy with the yellowstuff pads.
So far so good with the yellowstuff pads, 120 miles done so 80 left to fully bed them in, but they bite from cold great and offer very good stopping power. No squealing and not much dust either which is great.
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I also changed my air filter from a K&N to the Jetex FR-08001 cone filter, after reading a test which showed the Jetex was the best flowing cotton gauze air filter. Blue matches my car too!
QUOTE]
Hi Rob,
I'm currently running a K&N on my LCR, I'm just wondering what difference swapping your filter has made and if you would recommend the Jetex over K&N? any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks
P.S. Your cars awesome, I got the issue of Redline with the feature, great read.
I'd say the Jetex filter has less oil on the cotton gauze, so between the two I'd recommend the Jetex over the K&N, especially as it has been proven to flow more too.
I have finally found a dump valve that I am happy with, no fault codes or check lights, sounds great and holds boost. I had tried the Turbosmart Kompact dual port before but I got fault codes, check light and stalling, so it was no good.
But I got the bigger Turbosmart dual port and it appears to be perfect. I'm guessing the higher flow of the Garrett GT2860RS turbo and the bigger volume of air the larger dual port is flowing means there is plenty of air being recirculated which is keeping the ECU happy. There is no stalling, no fault codes, no engine check light, no chattering. Sounds awesome and works great. I got it 2nd-hand and luckily it came with 25mm fittings instead of the usual 32mm, so it went straight on.
Sounds amazing on full boost!
But I got the bigger Turbosmart dual port and it appears to be perfect. I'm guessing the higher flow of the Garrett GT2860RS turbo and the bigger volume of air the larger dual port is flowing means there is plenty of air being recirculated which is keeping the ECU happy. There is no stalling, no fault codes, no engine check light, no chattering. Sounds awesome and works great. I got it 2nd-hand and luckily it came with 25mm fittings instead of the usual 32mm, so it went straight on.
Sounds amazing on full boost!
I've also got a set of 2.0T FSI coilpacks and INA adapters on the way too. New set of NGK BKR7E plugs too which I will gap to 0.040.
Apparently they produce a hotter, bigger spark so you can open up the spark plug gap a bit and get a bigger bang in the combustion chamber = more power!
Apparently they produce a hotter, bigger spark so you can open up the spark plug gap a bit and get a bigger bang in the combustion chamber = more power!
With INA or the BOV? It's only a set of spacers from INA, nothing as important as a manifold or engine mounts.
Regarding the Turbosmart Dual Port - http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?id=599
Regarding the Turbosmart Dual Port - http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?id=599
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Keep me posted on the 2.0 coil packs.
Be good to advance the timing to the point where you can go now more on oem 1.8t coils then swap them out for the 2.0 coils and bigger spark to see if it has an affect.
Be good to advance the timing to the point where you can go now more on oem 1.8t coils then swap them out for the 2.0 coils and bigger spark to see if it has an affect.
The 2.0T coilpacks certainly seem to get a good writeup on the other VAG/AUDI forums on the 1.8T, will be interesting to see your findings Rob
I've also got a set of 2.0T FSI coilpacks and INA adapters on the way too. New set of NGK BKR7E plugs too which I will gap to 0.040.
Apparently they produce a hotter, bigger spark so you can open up the spark plug gap a bit and get a bigger bang in the combustion chamber = more power!
Rob, after running the NGK 7 for a while now I was advised by 2 different tuners over here to go another step colder for the level of boost and timing I was running, I put in 8's, EGT's dropped slighty, the 8 draw more heat away supposedly, just something to bare in mind or check out.
Ive been thinking about running the 8's now on the same or smaller gap as current. Cheap enough to try.
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