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DIY Boost leak tester guide
- Thread starter rsmith
- Start date
Where the hell do you get 63-mm and 70-mm piping from. I went to 5 different companies today ranging from plumbing suppliers and pipe companies, they all seem to stock standard sizes like 2, 3,4, and 1 inch piping. Not one company could supply me 70-mm piping. FFS how hard can it be.
Am p##### right off,fook knows what i'm doin wrong but can't get it to register a damn thing on the gauge,i know the gauge works but it just wont show anything
Well good luck getting a Boost Tester to fit your Turbo Intake pipe, there are none out there the correct size, I had to go to a fabricator to get a Cap end made up for me.
Take a chill pill and get on ebay, this stuff is all over the net, i am not sure why you are the only person having a hard time finding this stuff.I and multiple others have successfully sourced these components with minor effort.
and BTW, most plumbing supplies places with call 63mm pipe 2", so bring you calipers.
Well if you want to check leaks from the Turbo Intake Pipe, most, if not all pipes will not fit because there all in standard metric size like 2, 2.5, 3, 4 inches. The turbo Intake Pipe is 70-mm, which is not a metric size. Which is why I had to get an end cap made up for me.
3inch should fit nice a tight . if not use a grinder and angle the edge and a little bit of washup liquid and slide it in. only use the washup liquid if its a really really tight fit otherwise it will come out, also make sure the clip is really tight
. if not use a grinder and angle the edge and a little bit of washup liquid and slide it in. only use the washup liquid if its a really really tight fit otherwise it will come out, also make sure the clip is really tight 
Well finally got round to making a pair of these test pieces up, all thanks goes out to rsmith for this top guide,not used the 80mm one yet, 1st found the split R to be leaking a lot (i'm forever blowing bubbles springs to mind lol ), also the vacuum hose under inlet mani as in the pic in post 27 (the 1 thats not circled in red ) has a hole under the elbow, ordered the forge vacuum hose kit as in the pic in post 27 and got a new split R replacement, fitted these this wkend hoping all would be sorted but was i wrong, found the black plastic mini valve thing that sits on rocker top adjacent to N249 valve (2 pipes connect to it ) to be bubbling, looks like it slightly melted on 1 side, then the plastic Y shaped piece under inlet mani, then i noticed the cam cover breather hose clip was popped open, and to top it all off had to admit defeat due to snapping the plastic dipstick tube, its now 2 small tubes, gutted, ordered new tube and Y piece but SEAT cant get the mini valve thing, not listed anymore, 10th day off the road 
Well finally got round to making a pair of these test pieces up, all thanks goes out to rsmith for this top guide,not used the 80mm one yet, 1st found the split R to be leaking a lot (i'm forever blowing bubbles springs to mind lol ), also the vacuum hose under inlet mani as in the pic in post 27 (the 1 thats not circled in red ) has a hole under the elbow, ordered the forge vacuum hose kit as in the pic in post 27 and got a new split R replacement, fitted these this wkend hoping all would be sorted but was i wrong, found the black plastic mini valve thing that sits on rocker top adjacent to N249 valve (2 pipes connect to it ) to be bubbling, looks like it slightly melted on 1 side, then the plastic Y shaped piece under inlet mani, then i noticed the cam cover breather hose clip was popped open, and to top it all off had to admit defeat due to snapping the plastic dipstick tube, its now 2 small tubes, gutted, ordered new tube and Y piece but SEAT cant get the mini valve thing, not listed anymore, 10th day off the road
Holy smokes thats a lot of leaks, glad the guide could help you, Leaks = less power =
Well finally got round to making a pair of these test pieces up, all thanks goes out to rsmith for this top guide,not used the 80mm one yet, 1st found the split R to be leaking a lot (i'm forever blowing bubbles springs to mind lol ), also the vacuum hose under inlet mani as in the pic in post 27 (the 1 thats not circled in red ) has a hole under the elbow, ordered the forge vacuum hose kit as in the pic in post 27 and got a new split R replacement, fitted these this wkend hoping all would be sorted but was i wrong, found the black plastic mini valve thing that sits on rocker top adjacent to N249 valve (2 pipes connect to it ) to be bubbling, looks like it slightly melted on 1 side, then the plastic Y shaped piece under inlet mani, then i noticed the cam cover breather hose clip was popped open, and to top it all off had to admit defeat due to snapping the plastic dipstick tube, its now 2 small tubes, gutted, ordered new tube and Y piece but SEAT cant get the mini valve thing, not listed anymore, 10th day off the road
I'm in the same boat as you mate, and I'm getting sick of dealing with these boost leaks, I have change the N249 Valve, the T pipe which hold the PCV valve, and the PCV valve itself, and I have found 2 split pipe, one coming off the TIP, and another pipe which connect to the top of the PCV valve. I have also changed all the pipe around the TIP area with new Silicon piping.
And get this, the car still has F&$king boost leaks. This has been going on now for three months, I'm getting the car smoked tested Thursday and if that does not fix the problem I will sale the car, I'm just sick and tiered of dealing with it.
Im going to do this, but i was planning on just blocking the turbo to charge pipe connection and use the N75 hose to pressurise through, so i dont have to make anything. lol.
It looks like a proper compressor was used as its silient, can you use an electric tyre pump? should the system hold the pressure long enough after i turn the compressor off when i got a bar in the system?
My compressor (12v jobbie) is loud as hell and i got not chance hearing leaks with that thing running.
Great tutorial and vid.
Thanks.
It looks like a proper compressor was used as its silient, can you use an electric tyre pump? should the system hold the pressure long enough after i turn the compressor off when i got a bar in the system?
My compressor (12v jobbie) is loud as hell and i got not chance hearing leaks with that thing running.
Great tutorial and vid.
Thanks.
Im going to do this, but i was planning on just blocking the turbo to charge pipe connection and use the N75 hose to pressurise through, so i dont have to make anything. lol.
It looks like a proper compressor was used as its silient, can you use an electric tyre pump? should the system hold the pressure long enough after i turn the compressor off when i got a bar in the system?
My compressor (12v jobbie) is loud as hell and i got not chance hearing leaks with that thing running.
Great tutorial and vid.
Thanks.
I tried the electric tyre pump but it was to slow to pump the air into the system because I had some split pipes so I had too inspect each pipe one by one. You really need an air compressor to do the job properly. But I'm so fed up I'm going to a garage that have a smoke machine.
Tell me about it, and it did help but hindered my pocket at the same time, so far this year its had new discs and pads all round,front tyres, top mounts, full geometry set up, wheels refurbed black, serviced, CV boot kit, new window carrier and front door seals, rear washer repair kit(not fitted yet), rear brake balancer kit(not arrived yet),and now these boost parts, still need a G85 steering alignment sensor and im looking at which induction kit and ducting to order...
I know how you feel, got mine mapped in sep 08, felt very quick but after about 2 wks it didn't feel as quick and no wonder, i even took it to a well recognised tuner(no names mentioned) and they couldn't find any leaks...anyway whats this smoke test and how does it work?
Tell me about it, and it did help but hindered my pocket at the same time, so far this year its had new discs and pads all round,front tyres, top mounts, full geometry set up, wheels refurbed black, serviced, CV boot kit, new window carrier and front door seals, rear washer repair kit(not fitted yet), rear brake balancer kit(not arrived yet),and now these boost parts, still need a G85 steering alignment sensor and im looking at which induction kit and ducting to order...
I know how you feel, got mine mapped in sep 08, felt very quick but after about 2 wks it didn't feel as quick and no wonder, i even took it to a well recognised tuner(no names mentioned) and they couldn't find any leaks...anyway whats this smoke test and how does it work?
A smoke test is the same as a boost leak test but the system use smoke to detect the leak. if you have any leaks in the pipes smoke will escape and you can see instantly where the leak is.
Im going to do this, but i was planning on just blocking the turbo to charge pipe connection and use the N75 hose to pressurise through, so i dont have to make anything. lol.
It looks like a proper compressor was used as its silient, can you use an electric tyre pump? should the system hold the pressure long enough after i turn the compressor off when i got a bar in the system?
My compressor (12v jobbie) is loud as hell and i got not chance hearing leaks with that thing running.
Great tutorial and vid.
Thanks.
If you do it this way how will you know how much bar your are putting intO
the system, you might over pressurise it and yes I used a proper compressor for the tests I am not sure how much pressure the 12v jobbies can push how so I couldn't comment.
What now, I have just had a smoke boost test done at the garage and there where no boost leaks at all, arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. No fault are coming back from VAG COM.
I'm ****ed if I know anymore.
I'm ****ed if I know anymore.
Two man job, will be checking the boost gauge in the car.
But, i do actually have a compressor so i will be using that instead.
How long should it take a system to leak out 1bar providing there are no leaks? minute or two?
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