Some nice goodies there Scott 
Weitec coilies are good but i was a bit disappointed how low they go with the cups out!
Weitec coilies are good but i was a bit disappointed how low they go with the cups out!
White FR to Black Cupra - Cupra Now Sold :(
- Thread starter Scott-o
- Start date
Yeh the back could do with another 10mm or so like. I really liked them on my White one though so thought I'd get them again
Just hoping this tip shows up! When you getting the diff in?
Just hoping this tip shows up! When you getting the diff in?
August 10th bud along with G60 flywheel and VR6 clutch bloody funds have took a pounding! Just to confirm the diff is the wrong one but it will fit with some machining so im going down to northampton for a few days need a holiday anyways!
You dont stay near northampton by any chance do you
You dont stay near northampton by any chance do you
I'm miles above Northampton mate, in north Yorkshire! What needs machining? Place I work at on Saturdays does machining
So jealous of the diff!
So jealous of the diff!
Im not very good when it comes to gearbox side or electrical side of motors but its something to do with the crown wheel needs machining and the bolt kit will need replaced.
Yeah i think im going either hybrid K03S or GT28 next year so its the main reason why im getting the diff
Yeah i think im going either hybrid K03S or GT28 next year so its the main reason why im getting the diff
Oooo mint! Sounds good like! Not sure which I'd go for, probs the gt28 cos you can get big power but still have a reliable engine but with them hybrids the amount of low down torque is supposed to strain the rods apparently! Either would be immense fun! Shame your so far away would be good to experience it when the diffs in etc
Postman has just been at work aswell and surprise surprise, no tip :/
Postman has just been at work aswell and surprise surprise, no tip :/
Almost forgot, strut brace is now on:
Fancied sticking the engine cover back on so its abit tidier. Needed to top bit trimming a tad so it cleared the brace and i clayed and polished the silver bit on the cover as it was covered in crap!
Hopefully next update it will be a good chunk lower!
Fancied sticking the engine cover back on so its abit tidier. Needed to top bit trimming a tad so it cleared the brace and i clayed and polished the silver bit on the cover as it was covered in crap!
Hopefully next update it will be a good chunk lower!
you need to do the n249 bypass still also you should try your diverter valve the other way round if you havent tryed it already.
I need enlightening as to what both do! Heard the bypas makes it hold boost more or something? Dunno what the diverter does the otherway round? Does it not knacker anything?
Just makes the dump valve slightly louder and the bypass is suppose to improve pick up i think ive not done them but it is a mod im going to do! Just need the time and parts lol
Just had a look into it now im back on the computer. Bit confused with the by-pass. I really dont want the light coming on, on the dash board so dont want to rip it out altogether and resistor it but then on the threads i searched the pictures explaining how to do it are all in-active. Have you done it mate? Might be an idea for me to do it tomorrow if its a mod where i dont need any parts etc
Think im going to have to trim a tad more off my engine cover as i think its rubbing every so often with engine movement. Also on start-up sometimes you can hear the apr re-circ knocking off the strut-brace. Are the forge tips more rigid to stop this from happening?
Think im going to have to trim a tad more off my engine cover as i think its rubbing every so often with engine movement. Also on start-up sometimes you can hear the apr re-circ knocking off the strut-brace. Are the forge tips more rigid to stop this from happening?
when you turn the valve round it fits better so it dont knock on things and it makes a better sound.
The way i done my bypass i just disconnected the diverter valve and the t peice from the pipe that comes out the inlet manifold joined the pipe off the inlet to the valve so theres one pipe to the diverter valve from the inlet manifold,then your left with two disconnected hoses so join them together,this hasnt given me any fault codes or lights on the dash.
when im on my own computer i can show you with a picture if what i said doesnt make sence.
So disconnect the two pipes off the t piece except the one coming out of the manifold, then stick the one from the diverter valve into the t-piece? Then join the other two you took off the t-piece together? Would I then need to replace the t piece with a straight connector, or block it off sort of thing? Hopefully local motorsport place is open on Sunday and I'll go see if they have some connectors in.
Think I'll swap the diverter round too, cheers al! Hopefully it will stop it knocking off the strut brace on start-up
Think I'll swap the diverter round too, cheers al! Hopefully it will stop it knocking off the strut brace on start-up
Here's some info when I did mine....
Removed the DV vac pipe form (red circle) and joined it to the t-piece (green circle). Removed original pipe from t-piece in green circle and have left that unattached.
Ran a new vacuum pipe from the one-way valve (grey thing just below red circle) to the small box on the left of the engine. Left all other pies in-situ in case I want to revert back to original set-up!
Before...
After...
You can also see the DV in reverse!
Removed the DV vac pipe form (red circle) and joined it to the t-piece (green circle). Removed original pipe from t-piece in green circle and have left that unattached.
Ran a new vacuum pipe from the one-way valve (grey thing just below red circle) to the small box on the left of the engine. Left all other pies in-situ in case I want to revert back to original set-up!
Before...
After...
You can also see the DV in reverse!
Cheers Mike! How come you have to lengthen the bit on the one way valve? That's the only bit I don't get?
Rest is cool, your just attaching the hose off the recirc into that t piece and leaving the other one hanging there?
Just been out there and trimmed down my engine cover a tad more and swapped the recirc round, havnt been out to see what it sounds like yet though!
Rest is cool, your just attaching the hose off the recirc into that t piece and leaving the other one hanging there?
Just been out there and trimmed down my engine cover a tad more and swapped the recirc round, havnt been out to see what it sounds like yet though!
I was just follwing some instructions I found on here! Damoegan's RR thread I think! Basically it bypasses the reservoir (that black plastic box) and the pipework going to the valve
Yes.
Get the cover off... I assume you will be swapping boost pipes and the TIP for coloured silicon hoses. You'll want to see that!
It will sound sweet! Much more of a chirp sound. Something like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iy5ttHQ4WfQ OR http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4XZR...eature=related
So i dont need to do the bit from the grey one way valve really? Just the other two bits? Ill get out and do that in a sec before the girlfriend comes round! No dash lights come on?
Been out in the car since swapping it round and its a similar sound but it does chirp in the first instance, seems to hold abit stronger too!
Cheers for the help dude
Been out in the car since swapping it round and its a similar sound but it does chirp in the first instance, seems to hold abit stronger too!
Cheers for the help dude
Sounds mad with the recirc reversed, seems to operate quicker too as if itssnapping open and shut quicker. Sounds miles better!
Did the bypass too. Could do with getting a longer bit of vacuum hose though as it's maybe a tad too short!
Coilies on tomorrow though, can't wait!
Did the bypass too. Could do with getting a longer bit of vacuum hose though as it's maybe a tad too short!
Coilies on tomorrow though, can't wait!
The boost is acting on the bottom of the piston in the DV when reversed and not the side! The N249 bypass has made it react a little quicker too....
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