Yeah, that's the sort of thing I'm thinking of, but nowhere near as comprehensive...or expensive!
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how do i get tv on my blaupunkt stereo?
- Thread starter odd-head
- Start date
russ0r
Guest
Is the blaupunkt stereo unit the double-DIN unit that comes in the V5?
If so I might look at hooking my mp3 player up to mine using the method described.
If so I might look at hooking my mp3 player up to mine using the method described.
russ0r
Guest
Grand. I think I'll have a play about with it on Friday then.
Presumably I'll just need a 10 pin mini DIN connector and then to solder 3.5" jack/phono or something to the AV pins on it?
Any idea where I can get a 10 pin mini DIN connector?
Presumably I'll just need a 10 pin mini DIN connector and then to solder 3.5" jack/phono or something to the AV pins on it?
Any idea where I can get a 10 pin mini DIN connector?
That's a tidy bit of kit, although not exactly cheap. I could have sworn not many years ago you could buy just the connectors to be soldered, but even a search at RS components brought me to a blank. The 10 way mini DIN's that they sell don't have the single offset pin on the top row.
russ0r
Guest
Let us know how you get on with it... 
In other news (coming back to the on board logging thought) I did find this on my travels;
http://www.obd-diag.com/
It seems to be fairly generic, however the software is skinnable, which sounds very useful. As a guide, here is their default screen;
And a few more;
In other news (coming back to the on board logging thought) I did find this on my travels;
http://www.obd-diag.com/
It seems to be fairly generic, however the software is skinnable, which sounds very useful. As a guide, here is their default screen;
And a few more;
russ0r
Guest
Looks interesting. Does that just run on a PC?
Do you know if the unit will play audio from the aux mini-DIN input without needing to disconnect the GALA signal? Also, have you got video working on your unit? The pin-outs are confusing me a bit.
Do you know if the unit will play audio from the aux mini-DIN input without needing to disconnect the GALA signal? Also, have you got video working on your unit? The pin-outs are confusing me a bit.
Yep, it's PC based. Although it seems to need an ELM327 interface rather than a VAG-COM type. So I'm doing some work on that at the moment...
Audio is fine as standard, I use that now for my MP3 player. Only the video is blocked by the gala signal. Unfortunately my lead currently doesn't have a video pin, it was bought purely as an audio connection only. I'd have to get one of those full leads before I get the video working. Had I known about the fully wired connections earlier I'd have got one of those instead.
Audio is fine as standard, I use that now for my MP3 player. Only the video is blocked by the gala signal. Unfortunately my lead currently doesn't have a video pin, it was bought purely as an audio connection only. I'd have to get one of those full leads before I get the video working. Had I known about the fully wired connections earlier I'd have got one of those instead.
russ0r
Guest
Does the ELM327 offer similar functionality to a full blown VAG COM cable then? Seems like a cheap alternative if it does!
Does the standard audio require the +12v to be activated, or is that just for video? If so, where are you getting the 12v from?
(Sorry for all the questions, I'm a bit of a newb on car electrics and cars in general
)Getting the video through this cable might be a bit more difficult than I anticipated, as looking at the pin-outs it seems it only accepts three RGB inputs rather than a plain composite or S-Video. Conversion units for Composite->RGB aren't cheap, so I'm hoping I'm wrong. I'll have a play once the cable shows up and post what I find anyway.
Unfortunately the ELM327's aren't the cheaper alternatives. It seems that 'Ebay specials' are fairly reliable when it comes to VAG-COM, but very much not recommended for ELM327. A real one is approaching £50.
However, the ELM327 can do all cars for definite, whereas VAG-COM is only VAG with a bit of OBD tagged on. With my other half driving a Nissan, I have a second reason to go for ELM327. Plus there is a lot of customisation available for the ELM327, including (for the geeks amongst us) a Visual Basic Class.
The audio still needs the 12 volts present in order for the entry on the screen to become available. Without the 12 volts you can't select 'TV' from the list as it's greyed out. I simply tapped into the 12 volt feed from the radio itself, just trimmed a bit of insulation off the wire and attached the lead. I'll try and take a photo at some point so you can see.
I have to admit I can't remember what video feed is available. However, rather than looking at composite->RGB, have a look at VGA->RGB, you should find that is alot easier. In fact, I have a feeling that VGA already has an RGB feed... Of course, that is assuming that you're going to be using a PC to feed the video, which is ok for me but maybe not for what you're intending to do.
However, the ELM327 can do all cars for definite, whereas VAG-COM is only VAG with a bit of OBD tagged on. With my other half driving a Nissan, I have a second reason to go for ELM327. Plus there is a lot of customisation available for the ELM327, including (for the geeks amongst us) a Visual Basic Class.
The audio still needs the 12 volts present in order for the entry on the screen to become available. Without the 12 volts you can't select 'TV' from the list as it's greyed out. I simply tapped into the 12 volt feed from the radio itself, just trimmed a bit of insulation off the wire and attached the lead. I'll try and take a photo at some point so you can see.
I have to admit I can't remember what video feed is available. However, rather than looking at composite->RGB, have a look at VGA->RGB, you should find that is alot easier. In fact, I have a feeling that VGA already has an RGB feed... Of course, that is assuming that you're going to be using a PC to feed the video, which is ok for me but maybe not for what you're intending to do.
OK, a few pics...
First, the radio keys and where they fit, for those who haven't yet looked at removing the unit. Ebay special, set of four for a couple of quid. I've actually found I only need two two remove my unit, I'm sure it did need all four at some point.
Then the pinout;
(Sorry it's a bit blurry, the flash just made everything flare up and I can't figure out how to decrease the exposure without the flash)
Now the important picture, the back;
The lead I bought for the audio in is the connector to the right, with heat shrinked insulation leading to a pink wire (live), red and black (audio). That's at the top of the picture. The red and black go off into a little white box, which is my home made pre-amp. The pink comes back on to the wiring loom and is spliced into a live wire (in this case it's actually the CD changer 12 volts which was the easiest to get to).
The wire sticking out of the connectors is the gala wire, a blue and white wire that now goes nowhere. The other end is terminated with a bit of insulation tape so it doesn't short on the casing.
And lastly, the all-important menu option;
As you can see, the TV/VIDEO option is available.
First, the radio keys and where they fit, for those who haven't yet looked at removing the unit. Ebay special, set of four for a couple of quid. I've actually found I only need two two remove my unit, I'm sure it did need all four at some point.
Then the pinout;
(Sorry it's a bit blurry, the flash just made everything flare up and I can't figure out how to decrease the exposure without the flash)
Now the important picture, the back;
The lead I bought for the audio in is the connector to the right, with heat shrinked insulation leading to a pink wire (live), red and black (audio). That's at the top of the picture. The red and black go off into a little white box, which is my home made pre-amp. The pink comes back on to the wiring loom and is spliced into a live wire (in this case it's actually the CD changer 12 volts which was the easiest to get to).
The wire sticking out of the connectors is the gala wire, a blue and white wire that now goes nowhere. The other end is terminated with a bit of insulation tape so it doesn't short on the casing.
And lastly, the all-important menu option;
As you can see, the TV/VIDEO option is available.
2009bigchief
Guest
hello lads dis anywan please know where i could get radio diagrams for my 2004 seat toledo please i dont know what wire is for what thanks
on the internet
on the internet
russ0r
Guest
I have to admit I can't remember what video feed is available. However, rather than looking at composite->RGB, have a look at VGA->RGB, you should find that is alot easier. In fact, I have a feeling that VGA already has an RGB feed... Of course, that is assuming that you're going to be using a PC to feed the video, which is ok for me but maybe not for what you're intending to do.
VGA does already have an RGB feed. You just have to do some bodging on the hsync and vsync and you're almost sorted. I was just hoping I could use composite video as it would make setting the cable up a bit easier until I get a car PC. The video will have to wait now though.
Thanks for the pictures by the way, useful to see how you've done it.
Yep, that's the fella. I seem to remember that hsync and vsync can be partly software controlled as well.
I'm probably not going to be progressing with mine for a while either, not until I at least get another video connector for the head unit.
russ0r
Guest
The cable arrived yesterday.
Today I've been trying to get it all sorted out, cable is all made up however I can't for the life of me get the TV/Video option to become selectable on the sources screen.
I'm putting 12v through the 'VID ON' pin, as I assumed (possibly incorrectly) that this should make the option selectable. However, it is still greyed out.
It's definitely getting 12v as I've tested it with a multimeter.
Slimy can you remember which pin you put the 12v through?
Also did you also splice in a ground somewhere that I'm missing? It doesn't look like it but I thought I'd check.
The only other thing I can think of is the GALA wire but the ignition isn't even on so I can't see this being an issue
Any help appreciated!
Today I've been trying to get it all sorted out, cable is all made up however I can't for the life of me get the TV/Video option to become selectable on the sources screen.
I'm putting 12v through the 'VID ON' pin, as I assumed (possibly incorrectly) that this should make the option selectable. However, it is still greyed out.
It's definitely getting 12v as I've tested it with a multimeter.
Slimy can you remember which pin you put the 12v through?
Also did you also splice in a ground somewhere that I'm missing? It doesn't look like it but I thought I'd check.
The only other thing I can think of is the GALA wire but the ignition isn't even on so I can't see this being an issue
Any help appreciated!
The wire was already preterminated and sealed with heat shrink sleeving, so I can't verify what pin the pink wire is actually connected to. I'm not back home until tomorrow, but I'll buzz it through in the morning and confirm which pin it is.
The one thought I had is that have you got the right side of the plug? Those pictures don't give any indication of whether they are the plug or the socket, you may have inadvertantly put the 12 volts into the csync pin? The way to check that would be to look at the top row of pins, and make sure the offset pin is on the correct side relating to the one you've soldered to.
I've not got any grounds in place, as the system picked up some major earth loops whenever I connect any. But I don't think that should matter at all, as you're going from the head unit to the head unit.
The only other thing is that I remember the plug being incredibly stiff, and needed a good push home. Almost to the point where I thought I might damage the pins.
Don't worry about GALA, even with you in motion the TV option should be selectable.
Edit: Oh yes, one more thing. It takes a second or so for the option to be selectable, there is a distinct pause before it turns black. I don't know why, but it does....
And just to keep everything in one thread, I found some more info regarding VGA to RGB. I wondered whether horizontal and vertical timing could be software controlled, and they can be;
http://www.ramelectronics.net/powerstrip.ep
Powerstrip will allow you to control timings, so there must be at least one resolution and timing setting that works with the screen.
The one thought I had is that have you got the right side of the plug? Those pictures don't give any indication of whether they are the plug or the socket, you may have inadvertantly put the 12 volts into the csync pin? The way to check that would be to look at the top row of pins, and make sure the offset pin is on the correct side relating to the one you've soldered to.
I've not got any grounds in place, as the system picked up some major earth loops whenever I connect any. But I don't think that should matter at all, as you're going from the head unit to the head unit.
The only other thing is that I remember the plug being incredibly stiff, and needed a good push home. Almost to the point where I thought I might damage the pins.
Don't worry about GALA, even with you in motion the TV option should be selectable.
Edit: Oh yes, one more thing. It takes a second or so for the option to be selectable, there is a distinct pause before it turns black. I don't know why, but it does....
And just to keep everything in one thread, I found some more info regarding VGA to RGB. I wondered whether horizontal and vertical timing could be software controlled, and they can be;
http://www.ramelectronics.net/powerstrip.ep
Powerstrip will allow you to control timings, so there must be at least one resolution and timing setting that works with the screen.
russ0r
Guest
Powerstrip is a useful bit of software. I used to use it to force refresh rates on my CRT.
Btw I read that the screen on the unit only does 320x284 or something similarly tiny, I haven't found a refresh rate for it though.
I've definitely got +12v going through the right pin, I've double- and triple-checked I wasn't putting it through the csync pin as this was my initial thought too.
It's also definitely plugged in correctly, I've given it a fair old push and it won't go any further in.
I'm starting to lean towards a firmware issue
if you take a look at page 4 of this pdf: media.medienelektronik.de/pdf/10000411_ea.pdf my unit is pre-2000 and apparently needs an additional 12v feed somewhere. No idea where that Dietz 1412 is putting it in though, and I'm not going through every pin.
I'll wait and see what your plug is doing with the 12v before I continue I think. That should shed some light on what the problem is.
Oh, by the way, I found out that apparently the Sega Saturn games console uses exactly the same mini-DIN cable as the VW MFD and Seat Navigation System for the video/audio input. Just in case anyone was after a cheap one (they're about a tenner on eBay) with less of the soldering and messing about.
Btw I read that the screen on the unit only does 320x284 or something similarly tiny, I haven't found a refresh rate for it though.
I've definitely got +12v going through the right pin, I've double- and triple-checked I wasn't putting it through the csync pin as this was my initial thought too.
It's also definitely plugged in correctly, I've given it a fair old push and it won't go any further in.
I'm starting to lean towards a firmware issue
if you take a look at page 4 of this pdf: media.medienelektronik.de/pdf/10000411_ea.pdf my unit is pre-2000 and apparently needs an additional 12v feed somewhere. No idea where that Dietz 1412 is putting it in though, and I'm not going through every pin. I'll wait and see what your plug is doing with the 12v before I continue I think. That should shed some light on what the problem is.
Oh, by the way, I found out that apparently the Sega Saturn games console uses exactly the same mini-DIN cable as the VW MFD and Seat Navigation System for the video/audio input. Just in case anyone was after a cheap one (they're about a tenner on eBay) with less of the soldering and messing about.
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