Mk4 Ibiza Upgrade Newbie - Advice on where to start and what to upgrade?

[STUARTCLARK1982]

Hi All,

I thought I'd start my first decent post with a completely open discussion on upgrading my 2006 Mk 4 Seat Ibiza 1.9 PD130 TDi FR.

I'm new to the upgrade market but working with a bunch of petrol heads who spend their weekends gallivanting around the country, taking part in various track days; And having been to Brands Hatch recently (As a passenger unfortunately) myself I have well and truly caught "the bug!"

I though I would just really leave this topic completely open to members ideas and opinions as I'm interested to hear what you all have to say.

The big question: WHAT DO I UPGRADE FIRST (2nd, 3rd etc) AND WHAT MANUFACTURERS SHOULD I GO FOR???

Some ideas so far from looking through this wicked site: -

1. Revo - Rolling road remap
2. Induction Kit - Poss K&N???
3. Exhaust upgrade - Miltek?
4. Brakes - Always partial to some phat Brembo's
5. Front splitter
6. Clutch - Sachs?

This is just initial ideas. Money is tight at the moment so I think a remap and induction kit would provide the greatest gain at the smallest cost initially. All Ideas are more than welcome.

Any interior refinement ideas would be much appreciated too. Subtle but effective is what I'm thinking for the inside except for the Leon Cupra R seat conversion (preferably leather), or racing style equivalent.

Thanks

P.S. Any fellow Ibiza owners in the Portsmouth and surrounding area - Please feel free to add me as a friend.

 

[luke c]

i would go coilovers before exhaust system and chuck the front splitter on straight away only a few quid , someone correct me if im wrong but revo is just a plug and play map they dont do them on the rollers . And welcome to the forum

 

[Deleted member 13581]

Coilovers are a must. Get them 1st. Then Seat Sport front Strut Brace and 20mm spacers to help out.

If your thinking about a re-map and performance tweaks, you will need bigger/better brakes probably a 312mm TT conversion would be the best bet. Then its all about how deep your pockets are wether you go Stage 1, 2 or 3.

For easy mods, theres getting a shorter aerial, HIDs, LCR splitter that your taking about already and colour coding if you want.

Hope this helps.

 

[NickyJam]

most Stage 1 remaps are universal so literally plug n play...i'd say go for p-torque!

their maps give you torque all the way through the revs (unlike revo who stick masses of torque down earlier), but depends on what kind of delivery you're looking for

p-torque are quite a drive away but for £265 all-in can't really compain, most other are £300+, and Will iron's out any flat spots or peaks when doing Rolling Road test after the map is put on

but as above, get the splitter on first

also add Cupra rear spoiler i believe there's one going on ebay (primed for £77)

 

[vroomtshh]

If you're planning on doing track days my suggestion would be:

1. Tyres
2. New pads and brake fluid (upgrading the brakes would be better but its not cheap)
3. Full set of Super pro poly bushes including dog bone mount
4. Rear ARB
5. Rear Spacers

Then start worrying about luxuries like coilovers and remaps

The above, and practice will make you a lot quicker than just going low and powerful

 

[STUARTCLARK1982]

If you're planning on doing track days my suggestion would be:

1. Tyres
2. New pads and brake fluid (upgrading the brakes would be better but its not cheap)
3. Full set of Super pro poly bushes including dog bone mount
4. Rear ARB
5. Rear Spacers

Then start worrying about luxuries like coilovers and remaps

The above, and practice will make you a lot quicker than just going low and powerful

Thanks everyone! Certainly given me a better idea.

Vrommtshh - 1. As for tires I have Toyo T1R's 205,40,17s at present although I'm sure I saw a post were someone put 215s on for a slightly better ride. My mate has a VXR with mods and does track days and I certainly want to do similar but through the expensive way he discovered the beauty of buying part used tyres for track days - Alot cheaper than going through a new set, that's for sure. Would you suggest any different?

2. Braded hoses has also been mentioned for better braking and less obvious brake fade. What does TT brake conversion cost?

3. This has been on my mind as it's something i've seen mentioned on this site. Reducing engine movement from torque and gear changing through upgrading the bushes and dog bone mount is something I though would be better done first - Thanks for the confirmation.

Tahnks again for all the advice. As soon as I'm able to post pics I will start a little project thread for all to see.

P.S. Anyone in the Portsmouth area know of a good wheel refurber???

 

[rod the sod]

Coilovers
exhaust
front mount
air filter
custom map

thats if i had my time over again! i went about it ass backwards!

 

[harold945]

The first thing i done to mine was coilovers and poloybushes all round. I went for wietec purely because of the price can pick them up for 400/500 (height ajustable only and give you a sore back after goin over the smallest of pot holes!) and done the bushes at the same time. Got a basic revo map after that and its a total different car to drive.

great couple of upgrade, makes the car feel like a go-kart

 

[Mattwood]

P.S. Anyone in the Portsmouth area know of a good wheel refurber???

I've heard the Wheel Specialist in Fareham are supposed to be top notch - I will certainly be getting a quote from them in a few weeks

 

[mazzerati]

If you do spacers get them front and back otherwise your car will handle like a sack of poo! Just took mine off till I get some for the front, cos it was handling proper horrendously! not sure if the 2006 fr has the cupra solid bushes if it hasn't already, powerflex anti roll bar bushes, rear ARB, not sure how into it your goin but lightweight wheels maybe? If your going tracking you'll maybe benefit more from height and damper adjustable coilovers. Sure people put pd160 intakes on them too Simple things

 

[Breezapom]

Thanks everyone! Certainly given me a better idea.

Vrommtshh - 1. As for tires I have Toyo T1R's 205,40,17s at present although I'm sure I saw a post were someone put 215s on for a slightly better ride. My mate has a VXR with mods and does track days and I certainly want to do similar but through the expensive way he discovered the beauty of buying part used tyres for track days - Alot cheaper than going through a new set, that's for sure. Would you suggest any different?

2. Braded hoses has also been mentioned for better braking and less obvious brake fade. What does TT brake conversion cost?

3. This has been on my mind as it's something i've seen mentioned on this site. Reducing engine movement from torque and gear changing through upgrading the bushes and dog bone mount is something I though would be better done first - Thanks for the confirmation.

Tahnks again for all the advice. As soon as I'm able to post pics I will start a little project thread for all to see.

P.S. Anyone in the Portsmouth area know of a good wheel refurber???

i got my wheels refurbed at nationwide crash repair centre in portsmouth there down by jordans near admiral

 

[vroomtshh]

Thanks everyone! Certainly given me a better idea.

Vrommtshh - 1. As for tires I have Toyo T1R's 205,40,17s at present although I'm sure I saw a post were someone put 215s on for a slightly better ride. My mate has a VXR with mods and does track days and I certainly want to do similar but through the expensive way he discovered the beauty of buying part used tyres for track days - Alot cheaper than going through a new set, that's for sure. Would you suggest any different?

FOr track days, you want Toyo R888s, but if its a compromise between track days and road driving, then there are way too many tyres to choose from. Just choose some that suit your needs
2. Braded hoses has also been mentioned for better braking and less obvious brake fade. What does TT brake conversion cost?
Braided hoses and better fluid is a good start, plus uprated pads. No idea on TT conversion costs

3. This has been on my mind as it's something i've seen mentioned on this site. Reducing engine movement from torque and gear changing through upgrading the bushes and dog bone mount is something I though would be better done first - Thanks for the confirmation.
Poly bushes and alignment is probably the best thing I;ve done to my car

If you do spacers get them front and back otherwise your car will handle like a sack of poo!

Ibiza's dont need front spacers. The reason you fit rear spacers is because the rear track is narrower than the front, making for dodgy handling. If you fit front spacers too, you negate any advantage of fitting the rear spacers

 

[knight85]

would sort the handling out first...this was my mistake went for the remap to start with, when really i need to do handling mods.

312mm TT brakes...can pick up quite cheap...about 100 quid for calipers and carriers then you need discs and pads

Whiteline Rear Anti-Roll Bar...£130 quid

20mm rear spacers...£60

Solid Cupra Bushes...very cheap...fitting is a pain though

Coilovers or uprated dampers and springs...everyone goes on about coilies but i have 50mm drop on matching dampers and springs and love it....anywhere from £200 upwards

PD160 trumpet and hose....with Green panel filter....pick up second hand for a few quid

Seat Sport Strut Brace..again second hand or £70 new

Full milltek turbo back-system with big bore downpipe and decat...or custom exhaust system..helps car breathe better..etc..my milltec cost about 250 for catback and about 150 for the downpipe.

Stage 1 Remap....can see gains to about 170-180 bhp and 300lbs torque...got mine from p-torque very happy with it...about £250 quid.

then you will be looking at stage 2 and 3 which means a FMIC with all the pipe...new uprated clutch..although stage 1 rempa will utlimately mean this as well...then a hybrid turbo...

you also have cosmetic mods such as LCR splitter...(£15)...tints...wheel refurb etc etc etc...

welcome to the money pit

 

[NickyJam]

Ibiza's dont need front spacers. The reason you fit rear spacers is because the rear track is narrower than the front, making for dodgy handling. If you fit front spacers too, you negate any advantage of fitting the rear spacers

minor correction: the rear track isn't narrower...its just an illusion caused by the curves of the bodywork. the rears are in line with the fronts, only difference being the fronts have some camber

i wouldn't go as far as saying you'd be going back on yourself as the car would have an overall wider stance, still making it handle better

 

[vroomtshh]

minor correction: the rear track isn't narrower...its just an illusion caused by the curves of the bodywork. the rears are in line with the fronts, only difference being the fronts have some camber

i wouldn't go as far as saying you'd be going back on yourself as the car would have an overall wider stance, still making it handle better

No, what i said initially was correct. No illusions. Measure the front track, then measure the rear. The rear track is narrower. And the front and rear should have camber.

A wider stance doesn't automatically make a car handle better either. I still stand by my original statement. You want spacers on the rear. 15mm for ideal width, but 20mm for ease of fitment. And you don;t want spacers on the front.

 

[NickyJam]

i wouldn't have thought they would set narrower tracking on rears...

not sure if the 2006 fr has the cupra solid bushes

no they don't...they still came with the void bushes, but these are replaced under warranty with the newer Golf webbed bushes

 

[vroomtshh]

i wouldn't have thought they would set narrower tracking on rears...

No, neither would I. But they did. No explaining what Pedro does somedays

 

[NickyJam]

i'll have you know Pedro's on bodywork nowadays...José is to blame