Bedding in brakes

[MrBen2k7]

Hi guys,

My service today, turned into new breaks, new rear door seals and refitted radio....

After doing a bit of research, I have met several contrasting views...

What is the best way to bed in new pads/discs?

I have been accelerating and breaking hard so far, as I am told its just to get heat into them is the best policy?

What is best??

Ben

 

[AntneeUK]

The instructions that come with DS2500s say to apply 50% race pressure down the track's main straight, and then return to the pits and check for glazing... but I don't imagine that's much use...

Personally, I have always been told to apply the brakes firmly, but not like I'm doing an emergency stop, and maintain braking force for about 5 seconds, then continue down the road. Do this a few times and they should be fine. Sure that's not what everyone else will tell you, but I've used the same technique on cars and bikes and never had any problems. I guess a lot depends on what pads you've fitted too

 

[magicoi]

take it easy for a couple of hundred miles and keep your distance from the car in front until they bed in.

its just a time thing really.

 

[CHRIS87]

on our race cars we send the drivers out for one or two laps depending on how long the circuit is, and they hammer the brakes, then they come into the pits and wait for as long as poss for them to cool down as much as possible. Then they are ready for proper use.

 

[Fl@pper]

sounds daft but i have always found it works well on off road tyres too - last all season if you give em a good considerate temperature cycle on the tarmac

might try it on the next set of road boots

 

[ibizacupra]

if new disks also being fitted at same time, progressively build a heat cycle in to them
I have a post in badger section about bedding in DS2500's

 

[Ape]

This is from a guide I used a while back, and still use now:

#

From a speed of 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
#

Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit there with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration, uneven braking, and even ruin the rotors.
#

The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.
#

After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need about 5 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.

The guide is meant for new discs as well as pads, but works just the same for pads only. The whole "take it steady for 100 miles" or whatever is rubbish. I've tried that in the past and all I got was squeaky brakes. After following that guide I've never had the problem again.

 

[MrBen2k7]

Thanks for your help guys, I'll give it a whirl!

Cheers,

Ben

 

[JamJay]

Thanks Ape, good guide and one I will try next month with my new ones.

The amount of deleted posts in here is amusing, I can only imagine what they said . "Do 150mph, lock the brakes up and hope you don't hit anything"?

 

[DannyC87]

sounds daft but i have always found it works well on off road tyres too - last all season if you give em a good considerate temperature cycle on the tarmac

might try it on the next set of road boots

We used to do this with wet tyres in karting to get an intermediate set that wouldn't shred within a couple of laps on a semi dry track; scrub them in aggressively on a dry-ish track and then let them cure for a couple of months before using them