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Thermostat help
- Thread starter adam cupra 20vt
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- thermostat
Just been out in it.....all fixed 
I always let it warm up a bit before driving so it only took about 2 miles to get to 90, prob helped by the massive cooler sat in front of the rads, kept 90 or just above constantly so very happy now
I always let it warm up a bit before driving so it only took about 2 miles to get to 90, prob helped by the massive cooler sat in front of the rads, kept 90 or just above constantly so very happy now
Do you remember a few weeks ago in a CTS thread one of the members posted that his temperature gauge went up and down as he went up and down hills? When I read it I kind of chuckled to myself and thought that can't be right 
well this is excatly what was happening to me......when I accelerated hard or braked hard or went up or down a hill the gauge went down to 70 then back up to 90.....obviously turned out to be the thermostat.
Just thought I'd post this as it may help others in the future
well this is excatly what was happening to me......when I accelerated hard or braked hard or went up or down a hill the gauge went down to 70 then back up to 90.....obviously turned out to be the thermostat.Just thought I'd post this as it may help others in the future
When fitting a thermostat/radiator etc you should always run it up until the thermostat opens and the fans cut in then check the coolant level again once the water has circulated and any trapped air has escaped.
OK. when I done mine I filled the coolant up after fitting the stat then went for a drive. Few days later I checked the coolant and it had all gone from the tank so I filled it up again and it hasnt moved since but the hose going to the stat is always cold. Would this suggested to you a air lock has been created and this is why my stat hose is cold.
Going to drain the coolant again and do what you said.
Going to drain the coolant again and do what you said.
Should allways fill it up and run it for a few min's till it starts to get warm as it will need topping up, also put heaters on hot full blast to circulate the water fully. Also leave the cap off and keep topping up as needed upto between min & max once its starting to get warm and the coolant has stopped going down put the cap on then take it for a drive till its fully warmed up then top up to max if neccasery. Its likely you have air lock in the system.
I understand what you said but some say you have to run the engine till the fans come on which should be when the coolant goes slightly over 90 degrees but if the heaters are on max both my fans are on anyway on my car.
Im going to drain the coolant hopefully into a bucket and use it again as its all new. Refill then run the engine with the expansion cap off and heaters on max. Keep topping up if needed then take the car for a drive, let it cool down and check the level again.
Would you say this should stop any air locks being created.
Im going to drain the coolant hopefully into a bucket and use it again as its all new. Refill then run the engine with the expansion cap off and heaters on max. Keep topping up if needed then take the car for a drive, let it cool down and check the level again.
Would you say this should stop any air locks being created.
I wouldent say its nescasery. As you fill it up most of the air rises to the pipe that goes across the bulk head due to it being the highest point in the system. Never failed me that way and ive filled mine enough times
No need to drain it out and start again just run it up until the stat opens and the fans cut in.
The reason its done like this rather than driving is simply so you can keep a eye on the levels with the bonnet up, it will warm up a hell of a lot quicker driving than it will standing still so it may take a while.
The reason its done like this rather than driving is simply so you can keep a eye on the levels with the bonnet up, it will warm up a hell of a lot quicker driving than it will standing still so it may take a while.
Can allways fast idle it for a min, leave the cap off and let it warm up, heaters on and it should clear it. Another thing you can do is remove the small hose that goes up and over the bulk head. It joins onto the top hose with a spring clip. Remove it and see if and bubbles come out. Effective as apart from expansion tank its one of high points in the system. Once you get a flow of water put the hose back on.
Thermostat opens at 89 degrees, fan cuts in at just over 90. Once the guage is at 90 then its likely that the thermostat is open.
Well the other day I left the cap off and was squeeing both top and bottom rad hoses and every now and then did a fats idle but the level didnt change or bubble.
Is the small hose you are on about where the Coolant sensor is. Should I take if off while the engine is warming up.
Is the small hose you are on about where the Coolant sensor is. Should I take if off while the engine is warming up.
Not while its running, while the engine is off see if any air is in there. When you squeeze the bottom hose you should hear the water in the expansion tank bubble.
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