Idle issues?!?!?!?

[Grayboy]

Hi guys still haven't got down to the idle probs, even had a mechanic look and he walked away still scratching his head.

Between everyone that's looked at it I've worked out that it's something to do with the below located behind the drivers headlight.

I've worked this out by the fact it wasn't plugged in when I was checking all the connections and now when I've plugged it in the car won't start, if I remove the solid pipe that runs from this junction to the manifold as shown.

the car will start and run at a high idle that creeps up to 2K then cuts to drop back to 1200rpm then creeps up again to 2k etc.

There is also a very (from 20 feet away) sucking from the Manifold where the pipe should go and when I either cover it or plug the pipe back in it stalls instantly.

I'm at a massive loss as to what this part i the first photo is is could anyone help??

Also along the way this wire that runs round the back of the inlet manifold disintigrated as shown and the mechanic spliced this back together, could this be round the wrong way?

This is the last boundry for me to get the car back on the road PLEASE can someone shed some light as it's driving me mad.

it's got me to the point going out in my mates S3 at the weekend has me swaying to sell up which I would love not to do but like anyone only have so much patience.

 

[goble]

The connector next to the headlamp is for the charcoal canister solenoid which leads up to your throttle body.
It stalls bacuse you are cutting off the air supply, you need to trace back the hose to the canister to see if it is crushed or blocked or the canister is blocked/full. It could be the solenoid itself but without checking it who knows.
The wires will be coded anyways so just trace them back.
Too much to guess your best taking it to a proper garage if you want to get it fixed.

 

[Grayboy]

The connector next to the headlamp is for the charcoal canister solenoid which leads up to your throttle body.

Thanks for sheading light as to what it is, know a fair amount about Cars and Engines but never heard of a charcoal canister, what's it's job??

I've checked the pipe and it's fine, I'd say it was the solinoid as it drove fine till it was plugged in, once I know what I'm contending with I'll pull it apart.

 

[CraigW]

Thanks for sheading light as to what it is, know a fair amount about Cars and Engines but never heard of a charcoal canister, what's it's job??

I've checked the pipe and it's fine, I'd say it was the solinoid as it drove fine till it was plugged in, once I know what I'm contending with I'll pull it apart.

Its something to do with taking the petrol vapour and it then puts the vapour into the engine via the throttle body (?) when the car is running.

I aint 100% sure but its something like that.

 

[rubjonny]

Thats the carbon canister ignore it, its not causing your problems. This is fitted for environmental reasons, it recirculates petrol vapour from the fuel tank to the inlet, stops it venting to air.
As long as the carbon canister connections to the throttle body are either connected or blocked off thats all that matters. People who fit these engines to other cars generally bin all that rubbish altogether with no ill effects, as I say they just block off those vac lines at the throttle body.

Check the wiring behind the inlet more closely, they run to the idle switch & throttle position sensor. Pull back the outer heatproof sheith as far back as you can, and check the wires havent melted together or snapped further up. Re-join the wires properly matching the right colours and tape them up to prevent shorting.

If that doesnt help check the ISV, make sure it buzzes with the ignition. you'll find it at the front of the inlet with a 2 pin plug and a chunky air hose, under the spark plug tidy.

Next check the vac lines to the breather and the fuel pressure regulator in the fuelk rail, make sure they havent split. last of all check the vac pipe to the ecu, make sure it hasnt popped off anywhere or split. Its the one to the back of the inlet manifold with the red corrigated tube over the top

 

[Grayboy]

Cheers for that mate i'll have a look round on Sat, one of the breather pipes at the front connecting to the 'mushroom' in front of the manifold to the underside of the inlet pipe is split could this cause such a problem??
one quesrion on the carbon canister, if people remove it then what do the do ar the manifold as when i cover the hole it stalls but if i leave it it makes a sucking sound that can be heard 20ft away with the bonnet closed and over quite a noisy exhaust??

 

[rubjonny]

liek i say the pipes to the carbon canistor are both capped off, the fact yours stalls means something is wrong. removing the carbon canister should have no effect on the running of the engien. with the pipes off in effect you have a massive air leak!
take the inlet boot off and clean the throttle body, and as above repair the wiring behind the throttle properly.

a crack in the pipe to the 'mushroom' (PCV) may also introduce a vacuum leak, as there is a vac pipe to the inlet in the side of the PCV. Just bodge it up with tape for now, but the part number is:
037103231C - 2.0 16v - 11.99+VAT

its a VW & SEAT part so either parts dept can get one for you

 

[Grayboy]

Cheers again, especially for the part number!

Does this attached to a junction underneath the Plastic cap?? (Sorry not had the cap off before)

Will let you know how I get on over the weekend.

 

[rubjonny]

the PCV is fixed to that cap, once you undo the screws the PCV will come away and you'll see the vac line and the chunky breather hose. Just have to undo a couple jubilee clips and swap, simples!

 

[Grayboy]

the PCV is fixed to that cap, once you undo the screws the PCV will come away and you'll see the vac line and the chunky breather hose. Just have to undo a couple jubilee clips and swap, simples!

Schweeeeeeet!!!!

 

[iluvmygti]

hey rubjohnny long shot i know but i was wondering whether you knew if a mk2 2.0 8v experiencing similar idling problems might be due to the same thing? i appreciate any help you can give.

cheers

 

[16vLeroy]

Poor idling on an 8v can usually mean a dirty throttle body. Inside the throttle body, there is a tiny pin whole that senses air flow, and alters fueling accordingly. Give it a good going over with a can of carb cleaner.

Did mine with the engine running, it would keep dying, but it sucks the cleaner into all the nooks and crannies!! Be sure to give it a good drive up through the rev range, and constant steady speed afterwards.

Only a few quid - cheap fix.

 

[rubjonny]

depends what managment its on, but I'll assume its a digifant MK2 setup

if the idle is poor start with cleaning the tb as above, though MK2s dont really care as much as the later MK3s do. Check all the vacuum hoses, especially the one to the FPR. Also look at the PCV valve rubber bung, these like to split around the lip out of sight. its best to pull the pcv out and then remove the bung so you can inspect it properly.

If all that checks out, make sure you can hear the idle switch click when the throttle is shut. you'll find it underneath the throttle body, its a bit of a pain to adjust in situ as it uses torx head bolts and you need an angle screwdriver! Also before you adjust the switch make sure the throttle cable isnt too tight, the throttle should shut firmly to the stop.
If thats ok, check the wiring to the throttle switches round the back of the throttle body. they like to snap here!

Last of all try cleaning the ISV, if its still the same try one off a MK3/SEAT/Passat 2.0 8v with engine code 2e