-
Welcome to our new sponsor Lecatona, a brand dedicated to enhancing performance for VAG group sports cars, including SEAT, Audi, Volkswagen and Škoda. Specializing in High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) upgrades.
-
The forums will be offline for maintenance on Friday 15th November at 10pm for up to an hour. Thank you for your patience.
I would have got to see your car tomorrow and would have got my WMI logged and calibrated by Bill but the damn Lambda sensor died out in the middle of the emissions check during the MOT.
Changing the Lambda sensor tomorrow (after getting some help from Bill) and will at badger5 next week saturday.
Changing the Lambda sensor tomorrow (after getting some help from Bill) and will at badger5 next week saturday.
Well, had a call from Bill yesterday after he began mapping to find it was a more "lively" turbo than perhaps initially anticipated 
Using Roly's base map for his JBS05 (K04 hybrid) mine was pulling 220 g/s at 5,000 RPM with more to give, overboosting to ~26PSI with CFs of 6 - before WMI was even dialled in. It seemed I was knocking on the door of 300 lb/ft of torque before WMI which was both exciting and worrying at the same time.
It became clear that if Bill mapped it to it's full potential I risked saying hello to a con rod through the side of the block so it was agreed that he'd tame the power back within safe limits while I get on and order some rods for him to fit in a few weeks time, when the map can then be tweaked for further agression if desired
At the moment the car is still with Bill while he continues to work his magic so expect further updates to follow soon
Using Roly's base map for his JBS05 (K04 hybrid) mine was pulling 220 g/s at 5,000 RPM with more to give, overboosting to ~26PSI with CFs of 6 - before WMI was even dialled in. It seemed I was knocking on the door of 300 lb/ft of torque before WMI which was both exciting and worrying at the same time.
It became clear that if Bill mapped it to it's full potential I risked saying hello to a con rod through the side of the block so it was agreed that he'd tame the power back within safe limits while I get on and order some rods for him to fit in a few weeks time, when the map can then be tweaked for further agression if desired
At the moment the car is still with Bill while he continues to work his magic so expect further updates to follow soon
ian_cupra
Guest
Superb buddy! Be awesome to get her back and know she's capable of more! I bet you'll be buzzing when you get her back as well! 
Just had another quick catch up with Bill to see where we currently are and he's waiting on a new MAF after mine decided to play silly buggers.
It's been giving random zero readings when the map was requesting boost, causing stuttering and stalling when rolling up to junctions which I'd noticed myself on the drive over but had put it down to the fuelling being all over the place on my Revo map with all the uprated parts.
This should be here today so all being well it should be somewhere near ready soon
Good things come to those who wait though robbie looking forward to your results and will be one quick little motor with room for more too, it will be like xmas all over again when you pick it up, bet you cant wait
looking forward to your results and will be one quick little motor with room for more too, it will be like xmas all over again when you pick it up, bet you cant waitWell, had another call from Bill last night after fitting the new MAF to find that the car still cuts out and stalls when driven under moderate load or when dropping the revs when slowing down and dropping the clutch - approaching junctions/roundabouts etc.
Weird thing is, if the MAF is unplugged (i.e. using the preset table) then it appears to be fine.
I've had a quick search around the MK3 forum and found common issues related to:
- Boost leaks
- DV sticking
- DV too close to MAF
Interestingly, I've moved my DV over to the cold side:
...but the MAF does join straight into the TIP with perhaps only ~2-3" until it meets the DV return. This was highlighted as an issue with the MK4 Golf TIPs as per http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=142184
Has anyone ever had this issue with a similar setup? Bill was going to check my TB when I came off the phone last night - I had already re-aligned it with VAG COM prior to dropping it off.
The fact that it only appears to play up when the MAF is disconnected would sway me away from a boost leak but open to any suggestions as I'm a bit stumped on this one for the minute!
Thinking about what's changed on the car since the issue started happening I'm also just wondering if there's an issue running the vac line for my DV from the top of the TB but don't really see as to why this should cause a problem?
Weird thing is, if the MAF is unplugged (i.e. using the preset table) then it appears to be fine.
I've had a quick search around the MK3 forum and found common issues related to:
- Boost leaks
- DV sticking
- DV too close to MAF
Interestingly, I've moved my DV over to the cold side:
...but the MAF does join straight into the TIP with perhaps only ~2-3" until it meets the DV return. This was highlighted as an issue with the MK4 Golf TIPs as per http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=142184
Has anyone ever had this issue with a similar setup? Bill was going to check my TB when I came off the phone last night - I had already re-aligned it with VAG COM prior to dropping it off.
The fact that it only appears to play up when the MAF is disconnected would sway me away from a boost leak but open to any suggestions as I'm a bit stumped on this one for the minute!
Thinking about what's changed on the car since the issue started happening I'm also just wondering if there's an issue running the vac line for my DV from the top of the TB but don't really see as to why this should cause a problem?
Last edited:
Stalling coming off boost to me sounds like the old mk4 gold tip problem. Basically the DV is too close to the maf, so when letting off its confuses the hell out of it.
Do you have a better pic of your tip setup robbie? To test my theory i shifted it all about, bolted the filter directly to the MAF (not ideal but to try its fine), then a silicone hoses conencted to the TIP.
So previously it was...
Filter - Joiner - silicone hose - maf - TIP.
then...
Filter - maf - silicone hose - joiner - TIP.
Do you have a better pic of your tip setup robbie? To test my theory i shifted it all about, bolted the filter directly to the MAF (not ideal but to try its fine), then a silicone hoses conencted to the TIP.
So previously it was...
Filter - Joiner - silicone hose - maf - TIP.
then...
Filter - maf - silicone hose - joiner - TIP.
Backdraft
Guest
Or an injector leak, but dv too close to maf is also high on my list. So is your maf before or after the dv return? Should be infront of the dv return.
Thanks for the swift replies.
Unfortunately I've not got any better pics of the TIP setup but I've plumbed in a Revotec hose take-off for the DV return into the back of the TIP (behind the washer bottle in the above pic, out of sight), which I'd estimate to be ~2" after the MAF. It's in the right location, but sounding like it's probably too close.
At the moment my setup is:
Filter -> elbow -> 3" straight coupler (for positioning) -> MAF -> TIP
If I put the 3" straight coupler between the MAF and TIP would this give enough distance do you think?
Obviously for testing I can try the MAF just after the filter but I don't want to leave it there with so much turbulence. Thanks!
Unfortunately I've not got any better pics of the TIP setup but I've plumbed in a Revotec hose take-off for the DV return into the back of the TIP (behind the washer bottle in the above pic, out of sight), which I'd estimate to be ~2" after the MAF. It's in the right location, but sounding like it's probably too close.
At the moment my setup is:
Filter -> elbow -> 3" straight coupler (for positioning) -> MAF -> TIP
If I put the 3" straight coupler between the MAF and TIP would this give enough distance do you think?
Obviously for testing I can try the MAF just after the filter but I don't want to leave it there with so much turbulence. Thanks!
Last edited:
Yes, try it. Then get a bill to extend the filter straight down behing the head lights as youhave no battey. Like i have done....
I have blanked the DV off for one test early on, to stop it working at all, and same rev rev stall from idle ocurs.. I do agree and think its too close t MAF, but it does'nt seem to be the problem as when I block the DV's vac pipe off, nothing should be able to vent. I swapped t'bodies and cleaned the original one again, and same thing.
got a pressure test bung pair made today so I can pressurise the system up and search for leaks.. I was looking at a slight discolouration of "oily goop" around injector #4 late last night before I called it a day.
got a pressure test bung pair made today so I can pressurise the system up and search for leaks.. I was looking at a slight discolouration of "oily goop" around injector #4 late last night before I called it a day.
OK, after further investigation by Bill he found that the main problem seems to lie with a loose connection on the bottom of the TIP where it joins onto the turbo - largely accounting (fingers crossed) for the stalling problem.
As per http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showpost.php?p=2423775&postcount=68, the custom TIP I decided to put together was made up of:
3" silicone 90 degree elbow (with Revotec hose take-offs for DV and N75) -> 76-63mm straight aluminium reducer -> 63-51mm silicone reducing elbow
The problem with this was that the OD of the compressor inlet is ~44mm, hence leaving some ~6mm slack between this and the silicone elbow.
While I had hoped a good tight jubilee would hold this it's clear that this just won't work. Unfortunately it's not possible to get 63-45mm reducing elbows else I'd have used one of these in the first place.
So... I had thought I'd need to give up on the whole idea of this custom TIP and order another Forge one but this would also mean buying various other jubilees, joiners, blanking plugs and reducers as well as re-doing a lot of the vacuum pipework at the top of the TIP - basically a bit of a PITA.
After a bit of thinking however I think I can get round this with minimum cost and effort simply by replacing the lower half of the TIP with a 76-63-51 reducer that joins onto a 51-45mm silicone reducing elbow
Basic picture of new proposed setup (with the aluminium reducer shown in red):
This way, I don't have to modify anything on the top of the TIP, i.e. the DV return line and N75 lines etc (although I will make sure the MAF sits further away from the DV return by swapping the position of my 3" coupler)
Bill also raised some concerns over my intercooler pipework after he found several t-bolt clamps (particularly on the hot-side) had worked their way loose. Running fairly high levels of boost (1.8 bar peak) I'm likely to blow one of these hoses in time if I don't get them beaded so that the silicone has more resistance and better clamping on the pipework itself.
I therefore now need to find a local company with a bead roller so I can take these pipes off for a week and then re-assemble them back on the car when they're done. I could DIY it with some JB weld but I'd rather do it "properly" given the lengthes I've gone to up until now.
Other than this the car is reported to be performing well and Bill isn't far off finishing the map so we're provisionally looking at Sunday for collection
As per http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showpost.php?p=2423775&postcount=68, the custom TIP I decided to put together was made up of:
3" silicone 90 degree elbow (with Revotec hose take-offs for DV and N75) -> 76-63mm straight aluminium reducer -> 63-51mm silicone reducing elbow
The problem with this was that the OD of the compressor inlet is ~44mm, hence leaving some ~6mm slack between this and the silicone elbow.
While I had hoped a good tight jubilee would hold this it's clear that this just won't work. Unfortunately it's not possible to get 63-45mm reducing elbows else I'd have used one of these in the first place.
So... I had thought I'd need to give up on the whole idea of this custom TIP and order another Forge one but this would also mean buying various other jubilees, joiners, blanking plugs and reducers as well as re-doing a lot of the vacuum pipework at the top of the TIP - basically a bit of a PITA.
After a bit of thinking however I think I can get round this with minimum cost and effort simply by replacing the lower half of the TIP with a 76-63-51 reducer that joins onto a 51-45mm silicone reducing elbow
Basic picture of new proposed setup (with the aluminium reducer shown in red):
This way, I don't have to modify anything on the top of the TIP, i.e. the DV return line and N75 lines etc (although I will make sure the MAF sits further away from the DV return by swapping the position of my 3" coupler)
Bill also raised some concerns over my intercooler pipework after he found several t-bolt clamps (particularly on the hot-side) had worked their way loose. Running fairly high levels of boost (1.8 bar peak) I'm likely to blow one of these hoses in time if I don't get them beaded so that the silicone has more resistance and better clamping on the pipework itself.
I therefore now need to find a local company with a bead roller so I can take these pipes off for a week and then re-assemble them back on the car when they're done. I could DIY it with some JB weld but I'd rather do it "properly" given the lengthes I've gone to up until now.
Other than this the car is reported to be performing well and Bill isn't far off finishing the map so we're provisionally looking at Sunday for collection
I had the exact same Issues with my custom Tip install the Dv Hose was too close the maf...Move'd it away from the maf and it hasnt cut out once....
the fix, was the stepped reducer which robbie posted in combination with a lower portion of an ibiza silicone TIP, which I luckily had.. it went from 44mm to 50mm, and after a battle and some washing up liquid, it finally joined the coupler!
sizable band clamp fitted and some other magic, and the tip was reassembled tight onto the turbos intake. MAF repositioned 3-4 inches further upstream from the DV vent now also, and added internal coupler inside the final silicon hose to JR filter to it would'nt crush up when tightened like before.
end result, no stalling, perfect. finally.
8.25 degrees additional advance dialed in on 50/50 wmi also.
it pulls well.
sizable band clamp fitted and some other magic, and the tip was reassembled tight onto the turbos intake. MAF repositioned 3-4 inches further upstream from the DV vent now also, and added internal coupler inside the final silicon hose to JR filter to it would'nt crush up when tightened like before.
end result, no stalling, perfect. finally.
8.25 degrees additional advance dialed in on 50/50 wmi also.
it pulls well.
Thanks Bill and Alex - beat me to it!Latest update...
On Saturday I ran over to Merlin to pick up a Revotec 76-63-51mm reducer which I then dropped off at Bill's who mated this onto the bottom part of a Forge TIP he had lying around, reducing the bottom of the TIP from 51 to 44mm giving a perfectly snug fit over the turbo. Since modifying this TIP and moving the MAF 3" further away from the DV return Bill hasn't seen any further stalling on his test runs
As this Forge section of the TIP is blue I may get onto SFS about making up a black version if possible so it matches the rest of my pipework, or I could even probably get away with a Samco 51-45mm reducer if needs be.
Bill then finished off his mapping by dialling in 8.25 degrees of ignition advance running a 50:50 mix of water/methanol. Previous results on other 1.8T's indicate that every 3-4 degrees accounts for 10 BHP so this is a nice little increase on top of what the turbo is already producing. Yesterday's intake temps were showing 16 degrees which I'm more than happy with so the intercooler and WMI look to be doing their job nicely.
The car is logging just over 220g/s through the MAF which using a scaling factor of 1.3 equates to 286 BHP so with the WMI I would hope to be pushing, if not breaking the 300 BHP margin
Peak boost is 1.8 bar (1.6 requested IIRC), holding ~20 PSI/1.4 BAR at the redline. As I wanted an aggressive map that felt similar to the power delivery of my previous Revo Stg 1 setup Bill's mapped it in such a way so as to give a nice punch after every gear change which then levels out to hold the power nicely all the way through the revs.
On Sunday afternoon I went over to pick the car up and was looking forward to reporting back on how the car feels, only to find the clutch absolutely sh*t itself on the way home, slipping through every gear even on partial throttle and skydiving the revs to the redline - typical!
I didn't manage to get on a long enough clear stretch of road to properly give it some before the clutch started slipping (Sunday drivers...) so I've still not felt just how much power the car is now capable of putting down, but I do still notice a massive massive difference than before from the short bursts I was able to give it before the clutch crapped itself. When I pulled up at home there was a nasty smell of it burning outside and with such aggressive power delivery its just too much torque for the standard clutch to take, as was always pretty obvious. I had just hoped it would hold out long enough for the journey home!
So, next up I'll be sending the car over to Alex at Backdraft for a new uprated clutch, lighter flywheel and Peloquin diff which should handle the abuse much better
After that, I need to get my intercooler pipework beaded ASAP to prevent any unfortunate incidents on the side of the road when a hose pops off and then look at getting the rods uprated for peace of mind. So close and yet so far!
As has been said countless times before on this forum, huge thanks to Bill for all his hard work and patience with the car over the past couple of weeks, I couldn't have left the car in more capable and helpful hands and for that I'm extremely grateful - top job
Last edited:
Similar threads
