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I think I have. I specifically ordered the tiny one knowing I had no room. There isn't a cat in hells chance it will fit so I am going to call them on Monday to see if I can exchange it for a diddy one.
Well given the good weather and a few spare minutes I have to hand, I went out to have a look and see whether I could fit the catch can.
After looking at potential installation locations near the battery, where the OEM intake used to be, and near the carbon canister, I decided on the latter as there appeared to be just enough room. If I want to change a DRL bulb I will have to remove the catch can, but at least its not a big issue.
There is a gap between the plastic slam panel cover and the slam panel itself which enabled me to slot the catch can bracket between the two layers and then bolt it in.
There was just enough clearance between the bottom of the can and the belts on the side of the engine to make it a viable fit:
The job went pretty smoothly apart from 2 minor workarounds.
1) Taking the excess of the right angle joint threads
The right angle joints protrude beyond the inner edge of the alloy panel which connects to the head. I had to use a long hacksaw blade and a fine file to cut these down. People with the Golf have had the same issue, so it should also affect the Leon. I then used PTFE tape on the threads to ensure that were they to move about during driving they have a slightly better seal than if they had no form of sealant. I didn't have any thread sealant / loctite to hand so this will have to do for now.
2) Connecting the right hand air pipe
If you look in the picture below, you will see a thick black OEM pipe (apologies for the lack of techno speak) connecting to a silver collar (top right hand side of the photo). This pipe clips off and on by flexing an outer hoop and it dislocates the connection.
When you have fitted the BSH panel and then you fit the metal collar (the spanner required for this is enormous, possibly 23mm or over), getting the OEM pipe back on is a nightmare as there really isn't much slack on the pipe (on the S3). The collar has to go on first. Then you have to get the OEM as straight as you can before attaching it to do it successfully otherwise the O ring pinches.
You will no longer have a pipe going to the plastic manifold section, and I found the cap which blocks this off had unusual sized connection bolts. Turns out the 3 silver bolts seem to be an imperial size allan key rather than metric (possibly due to being a US kit). Think it was 1/8".
Also I only had 3 jubilee clips (use 6mm socket for the supplied clips), so I had to supplement a spare from my personal stores.
Started the car and fortunately all works, and no unexpected side effects. I have to assume there are therefore no air leaks. Idle sat solid as usual, but initial notes are that the slight hesitation is still there as usual. Whether this will ever clear remains to be seen.
I assumed the brassy coloured wing nut at the base needed to be done up, so I'd done it up tight (turns out this is wrong, needs to be wound out - away from the catch can, many thanks to ZBOYD for this update). A bit of AutoGlym vinyl and rubber cleaner helps you get the can in and out nice and easily.
If you are doing it yourself you will need the following tools:
1/8" allan key
T25 torx bit
Small ratchet and extension bar
6mm socket
Stanley knife
PTFE tape
Long hacksaw blade
Fine edged file
23mm(?) spanner or a very large adjustable head wrench
Drill & drill bits (if you end up drilling the slam panel)
2 nuts, washers and bolts to connect the bracket to the slam panel
A spare jubilee clip (if your kit only has 3)
Some lint free cloths to clean openings
Job time: If you are skilled, less than an hour, if you are me, hour and a half (deciding on location takes the most time)
If you are fitting it yourself, be mindful of routing your pipes, and ensure nothing rubs / fouls / kinks.
Only other thing of note is RIGHT pipe to the TOP of the catch can, LEFT pipe to the side.
Any questions fire away!
After looking at potential installation locations near the battery, where the OEM intake used to be, and near the carbon canister, I decided on the latter as there appeared to be just enough room. If I want to change a DRL bulb I will have to remove the catch can, but at least its not a big issue.
There is a gap between the plastic slam panel cover and the slam panel itself which enabled me to slot the catch can bracket between the two layers and then bolt it in.
There was just enough clearance between the bottom of the can and the belts on the side of the engine to make it a viable fit:
The job went pretty smoothly apart from 2 minor workarounds.
1) Taking the excess of the right angle joint threads
The right angle joints protrude beyond the inner edge of the alloy panel which connects to the head. I had to use a long hacksaw blade and a fine file to cut these down. People with the Golf have had the same issue, so it should also affect the Leon. I then used PTFE tape on the threads to ensure that were they to move about during driving they have a slightly better seal than if they had no form of sealant. I didn't have any thread sealant / loctite to hand so this will have to do for now.
2) Connecting the right hand air pipe
If you look in the picture below, you will see a thick black OEM pipe (apologies for the lack of techno speak) connecting to a silver collar (top right hand side of the photo). This pipe clips off and on by flexing an outer hoop and it dislocates the connection.
When you have fitted the BSH panel and then you fit the metal collar (the spanner required for this is enormous, possibly 23mm or over), getting the OEM pipe back on is a nightmare as there really isn't much slack on the pipe (on the S3). The collar has to go on first. Then you have to get the OEM as straight as you can before attaching it to do it successfully otherwise the O ring pinches.
You will no longer have a pipe going to the plastic manifold section, and I found the cap which blocks this off had unusual sized connection bolts. Turns out the 3 silver bolts seem to be an imperial size allan key rather than metric (possibly due to being a US kit). Think it was 1/8".
Also I only had 3 jubilee clips (use 6mm socket for the supplied clips), so I had to supplement a spare from my personal stores.
Started the car and fortunately all works, and no unexpected side effects. I have to assume there are therefore no air leaks. Idle sat solid as usual, but initial notes are that the slight hesitation is still there as usual. Whether this will ever clear remains to be seen.
I assumed the brassy coloured wing nut at the base needed to be done up, so I'd done it up tight (turns out this is wrong, needs to be wound out - away from the catch can, many thanks to ZBOYD for this update). A bit of AutoGlym vinyl and rubber cleaner helps you get the can in and out nice and easily.
If you are doing it yourself you will need the following tools:
1/8" allan key
T25 torx bit
Small ratchet and extension bar
6mm socket
Stanley knife
PTFE tape
Long hacksaw blade
Fine edged file
23mm(?) spanner or a very large adjustable head wrench
Drill & drill bits (if you end up drilling the slam panel)
2 nuts, washers and bolts to connect the bracket to the slam panel
A spare jubilee clip (if your kit only has 3)
Some lint free cloths to clean openings
Job time: If you are skilled, less than an hour, if you are me, hour and a half (deciding on location takes the most time)
If you are fitting it yourself, be mindful of routing your pipes, and ensure nothing rubs / fouls / kinks.
Only other thing of note is RIGHT pipe to the TOP of the catch can, LEFT pipe to the side.
Any questions fire away!
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yep good write up, I would have thought th ptfe tape would have been enough rather than going to screw/stud lock. I might use some red silicon hose when i get my kit, have you checked the can to see if any oil is actually filling the can up ?
No mate, just had it on tick over to make sure no air leaks. Car won't run until Thu so won't know until then.
Just been out for another run:
1) Idle has changed from 825rpm to 750rpm with the can ????
2) The idle is MORE unstable than it was before
3) I seem to be getting a very light black deposit over the back of the car like soot
4) The car now sounds VERY cammy
Any other people who have one fitted noted anything?
1) Idle has changed from 825rpm to 750rpm with the can ????
2) The idle is MORE unstable than it was before
3) I seem to be getting a very light black deposit over the back of the car like soot
4) The car now sounds VERY cammy
Any other people who have one fitted noted anything?
Sounds a it worrying mate
have you vag com the car to see if there are any dtc's?
Silly thing to say but perhaps its just burning the crud off now you getting clean air in there? ecu might have to adapt?
have you vag com the car to see if there are any dtc's?
Silly thing to say but perhaps its just burning the crud off now you getting clean air in there? ecu might have to adapt?
it's a very fair point. Also I had forgotten that before I went away on holiday (3 weeks ago) I put injector cleaner in the car and I've just had to fill up the car this morning with a clean tank of 98RON Shell V-Power . I bet that has been wreaking some havoc in the system over 3 weeks whilst I've been away.
The car feels as strong as you like, so maybe it's just 'adapting' as you say.
I'm off to Audi Driver International (Castle Combe) on the 8th of October, so hope to nab someone from Revo to come out and see how the car is running with VAGCOM on track.
Fitted mine this afternoon, or I should say our Rick fitted it while I gave him some general pointers.
Your guide was really helpful Warren, so cheers. But we noted one mistake that you might want to check up on your catch can.
Its a valve that the wing nut connects to, when you wind it all the way in - its actually opening the valve. I unscrewed the top connector pipe and looked through the hole at the top of the catch can. I noticed that the light was shining in from the valve in the bottom indicating it was open.
When the wing nut is wound upwards towards the bottom of the can it opens the valve, so it drains. You wind it all the way down away from the bottom of the catch can and it shuts the valve so nothing can drain out.
Just thought I would mention it as you might be dripping oil.
Your guide was really helpful Warren, so cheers.
But we noted one mistake that you might want to check up on your catch can.Its a valve that the wing nut connects to, when you wind it all the way in - its actually opening the valve. I unscrewed the top connector pipe and looked through the hole at the top of the catch can. I noticed that the light was shining in from the valve in the bottom indicating it was open.
When the wing nut is wound upwards towards the bottom of the can it opens the valve, so it drains. You wind it all the way down away from the bottom of the catch can and it shuts the valve so nothing can drain out.
Just thought I would mention it as you might be dripping oil.
Genius Mark. Really appreciate it. I'll update the instructions above to reflect your findings. How bizarre as it has been smelling a bit recently. Good find sir. 
No problem, its not in anyway clearly marked or supplied with any useful info, so hardly surprising people made the mistake. We rationally think that something screwed in means its shut, not open.
But it seemed odd that it was supplied with it screwed all the way down. So in a moment of unusual clarity I thought if i take the top connector off I might be able to see inside and see if light is coming through.
But it seemed odd that it was supplied with it screwed all the way down. So in a moment of unusual clarity I thought if i take the top connector off I might be able to see inside and see if light is coming through.
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