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When I was at the garage today someone who brought his race-car down from Scotland had a trailer tyre blowout on the motorway out of the blue. I'm not sure if the trailer had high-load tyres for the weight of the car he was towing...
Who's car's finished??.
![[B)]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/shades.gif "Cool [B)]")
Twin axle Brian James or Ifor Williams are the only ones i'd use personally. I think you'll be lucky to find a trailer as light as 350kgs.
Your track car been on the track yet?? lolWho's car's finished??.
Twin axle Brian James or Ifor Williams are the only ones i'd use personally. I think you'll be lucky to find a trailer as light as 350kgs.
Yup speaker will be goingwill need to remove those speakers after all to save enough weight to tow the lcr
Update
There has been quite alot going on this past while.
I've finally done my first 1/4 day, I had the car stripped out with no spare and no passengers seat and got 14.451 secs @ 98.3MPH which for a 210BHP 209ft-lbs LCR I think aint bad. I was managing to get my 60ft times in the 2.2secs consistently. I'm pretty sure I could have these down a bit if the cues were shorter and less cars were blowing up.
Prior to this I had decided that I was getting a full FIA approved weld in roll cage. There are limited options for this on the MK1 Leon. So had settled for a Custom Cages one with full triangulation to the front turrets.
But when I was at Crail (for the 1/4 mile) I was hearing a knocking noise when going slow over runts and bumps. So there was something wrong. TBH I was thinking it was the ARB mounts coming loose (even though the bolts are loctited in) but on investigation is seems I have a bigger problem.
I've had a copy of the work shop manual ELSAWIN for a year or so which has proved invaluable for the modifications and fixes I have done. But when following the torque settings (to the book) for fitting the dog bone mount to the under side of the clutch housing, I stripped this thread. I did manage to get this drilled and helicoiled but from this point on I was riding my luck a bit.
So on investigating the knocking I have found the boss where the DBM front bolt goes into the clutch housing as split
So that has put pay to the roll cage purchase!!!
So, as I don't like doing things by half, and I was going to do it anyway at some point, I'll be getting my gear box refurbed and will be getting a LSD fitted
Hopefully my SPEC stage 1 clutch and fly wheel are all still in good shape
I have done a bit of investigation into the different LSD's.
Usually it seems people just either go for Peloquin or Quaife. They are both ATB differentials. There is a newish one on the scene made by Autotech called a Wavetec
http://www.autotech.com/prod_drive_wavetracDiffs.htm
These differentials have moved on from the traditional ATB ones to hopefully give more traction. There isn't alot on these yet as they have just been released so it's going to be a bit of a suck it and see.
I now have a good price for this differential and a few good prices from good gear box companies too.
The biggest problem I have just now is getting a clutch housing. Scrappers won't sell these separate to gear boxes so I have to buy the whole lot. A clutch housing new from Seat is £350, a second hand gear box delivered is about the same.
Basically what I plan to do is get the as good a gear box as I can, send this away to get refurbed and fitted with the diff. Once this is done swap this out on my car then get my ones refurbed either as a back up or sell this one.
There has been quite alot going on this past while.
I've finally done my first 1/4 day, I had the car stripped out with no spare and no passengers seat and got 14.451 secs @ 98.3MPH which for a 210BHP 209ft-lbs LCR I think aint bad. I was managing to get my 60ft times in the 2.2secs consistently. I'm pretty sure I could have these down a bit if the cues were shorter and less cars were blowing up.
Prior to this I had decided that I was getting a full FIA approved weld in roll cage. There are limited options for this on the MK1 Leon. So had settled for a Custom Cages one with full triangulation to the front turrets.
But when I was at Crail (for the 1/4 mile) I was hearing a knocking noise when going slow over runts and bumps. So there was something wrong. TBH I was thinking it was the ARB mounts coming loose (even though the bolts are loctited in) but on investigation is seems I have a bigger problem.
I've had a copy of the work shop manual ELSAWIN for a year or so which has proved invaluable for the modifications and fixes I have done. But when following the torque settings (to the book) for fitting the dog bone mount to the under side of the clutch housing, I stripped this thread. I did manage to get this drilled and helicoiled but from this point on I was riding my luck a bit.
So on investigating the knocking I have found the boss where the DBM front bolt goes into the clutch housing as split
So that has put pay to the roll cage purchase!!!
So, as I don't like doing things by half, and I was going to do it anyway at some point, I'll be getting my gear box refurbed and will be getting a LSD fitted
Hopefully my SPEC stage 1 clutch and fly wheel are all still in good shape
I have done a bit of investigation into the different LSD's.
Usually it seems people just either go for Peloquin or Quaife. They are both ATB differentials. There is a newish one on the scene made by Autotech called a Wavetec
http://www.autotech.com/prod_drive_wavetracDiffs.htm
These differentials have moved on from the traditional ATB ones to hopefully give more traction. There isn't alot on these yet as they have just been released so it's going to be a bit of a suck it and see.
I now have a good price for this differential and a few good prices from good gear box companies too.
The biggest problem I have just now is getting a clutch housing. Scrappers won't sell these separate to gear boxes so I have to buy the whole lot. A clutch housing new from Seat is £350, a second hand gear box delivered is about the same.
Basically what I plan to do is get the as good a gear box as I can, send this away to get refurbed and fitted with the diff. Once this is done swap this out on my car then get my ones refurbed either as a back up or sell this one.
So winter plans are;
- Fit refurbed gear box and Wavetrac differential
- Fit harnesses with bar or screw in fittings
- Fit poly carbonate windows
- Fit new induction filter and run a good cold air supply to it
- Fit 284mm rear discs with TT carriers and callipers
- Fit catch can with uprated PCV hoses
With the harnesses fitted I can remove the air bags (will pass MOT).
With the polycarbonate windows fitted I can remove the inner door skins and electrical window motors and foldable wing mirrors. I'll remove the whole dash and strip out what I can from there too. The air con system will be removed.
The BMC CDA system will be removed and a new Dual cone system will be fitted.
I have a PCV leak so the new hoses will sort this out and will fit a catch can. This will allow me to clean out my FMIC and boost piping.
So planning on being pretty busy during the winter.
- Fit refurbed gear box and Wavetrac differential
- Fit harnesses with bar or screw in fittings
- Fit poly carbonate windows
- Fit new induction filter and run a good cold air supply to it
- Fit 284mm rear discs with TT carriers and callipers
- Fit catch can with uprated PCV hoses
With the harnesses fitted I can remove the air bags (will pass MOT).
With the polycarbonate windows fitted I can remove the inner door skins and electrical window motors and foldable wing mirrors. I'll remove the whole dash and strip out what I can from there too. The air con system will be removed.
The BMC CDA system will be removed and a new Dual cone system will be fitted.
I have a PCV leak so the new hoses will sort this out and will fit a catch can. This will allow me to clean out my FMIC and boost piping.
So planning on being pretty busy during the winter.
Really really good update on the progress of the car Willie.
Interesting on your comment about how differentials have moved on. When i done my research I found that these new differentials dont really behave any differently to the torque bias ones out already. At the end of the day they are mechanical so there is only so much that changes apart from how much lock they have when accelerating and deceleration. Of course I am open to more knowledge on this subject
Good move on removing the BMC. From spending time at AmD every car with a BMC system never got the power they were meant to. They found reverting back to the stock airbox did better, they simply cant provide enough air for tuned 1.8Ts. I strongly recommend the probee twin cold air feed. Having done this on mine the difference to the top end is very notable. It is a true forced induction system like the stock airbox but much better.
On changing calipers/discs for the rear. How have you figured out the bias change? Last thing you want is to much bias to the back to unbalance the car especially now all the weight has been removed.
I should be revealing my list of engine modifications soon
Interesting on your comment about how differentials have moved on. When i done my research I found that these new differentials dont really behave any differently to the torque bias ones out already. At the end of the day they are mechanical so there is only so much that changes apart from how much lock they have when accelerating and deceleration. Of course I am open to more knowledge on this subject
Good move on removing the BMC. From spending time at AmD every car with a BMC system never got the power they were meant to. They found reverting back to the stock airbox did better, they simply cant provide enough air for tuned 1.8Ts. I strongly recommend the probee twin cold air feed. Having done this on mine the difference to the top end is very notable. It is a true forced induction system like the stock airbox but much better.
On changing calipers/discs for the rear. How have you figured out the bias change? Last thing you want is to much bias to the back to unbalance the car especially now all the weight has been removed.
I should be revealing my list of engine modifications soon
Alright bud,Really really good update on the progress of the car Willie.
Interesting on your comment about how differentials have moved on. When i done my research I found that these new differentials dont really behave any differently to the torque bias ones out already. At the end of the day they are mechanical so there is only so much that changes apart from how much lock they have when accelerating and deceleration. Of course I am open to more knowledge on this subject
Good move on removing the BMC. From spending time at AmD every car with a BMC system never got the power they were meant to. They found reverting back to the stock airbox did better, they simply cant provide enough air for tuned 1.8Ts. I strongly recommend the probee twin cold air feed. Having done this on mine the difference to the top end is very notable. It is a true forced induction system like the stock airbox but much better.
On changing calipers/discs for the rear. How have you figured out the bias change? Last thing you want is to much bias to the back to unbalance the car especially now all the weight has been removed.
I should be revealing my list of engine modifications soon
there is a guy on here, Dave B, he's also on UK-MK1V. He knows his stuff about braking. Not just hos info but also my feelings on the track.
On Knockhill there are two points on the track were I'm braking from 100MPH+ to one point 80 another point 30MPH. This shows, even with a stiff suspension set up, that the car wants to front end dive freely. This can be helped by fitting bigger rear set up to pull the back end down, and to a more controlled stop.
Also we have a few members with the ECS stage 5 rear 2 piece 308mm discs. They confirm this is how they now feel there set up. The 284mm is a bit of a compromise over that one but at under half the price it's the way I'll head first. Also getting the new rotors for the ECS kit isn't as straight forward as it should be.
Also with having a lighter rear end now I'm betting that going the half way step is the right way for me, I worry the 308mm will be a bit OTT for my set up.
As for the diff, take a read through the Wavetrac bumf, its sounds like the dogs balls.
As we have a few Leons with diffs now it will be interesting to see the differences at next years National meet or a SCN track day, which ever is first.
Also the Wavetrac is about the same price as the others and is a newer design so I'm hedging my bets that it will at least be as good as the other, but hopefully better.
The BMC looks the piece but I've never been about style over form, initially I was told this was the best but there has been alot of logging on this to prove its not.
That's why I don't do 1/4 miles - so many things can break when launching hard, I personally don't see the point in it TBH.
I have 330mm fronts and 300mm rear discs and hard braking is very flat, so you're going the right way by increasing the size of the rears to prevent nose diving. Relocate your battery and washer tank to the boot for better weight distribution and more even braking.
BMC's are rubbish, very restrictive - proved over and over! The K&N Apollo and Quikshift Taipan are the most free-flowing enclosed induction kits IMO, but I still think an open cone is the best for a turbo car. I've tried both with and without cold air feeds and it made zero difference to my car, intake temps are controlled and reduced by the intercooler.
Just my thoughts m8.
I have 330mm fronts and 300mm rear discs and hard braking is very flat, so you're going the right way by increasing the size of the rears to prevent nose diving. Relocate your battery and washer tank to the boot for better weight distribution and more even braking.
BMC's are rubbish, very restrictive - proved over and over! The K&N Apollo and Quikshift Taipan are the most free-flowing enclosed induction kits IMO, but I still think an open cone is the best for a turbo car. I've tried both with and without cold air feeds and it made zero difference to my car, intake temps are controlled and reduced by the intercooler.
Just my thoughts m8.
Rob, never really been into these either but was interested to see what the car could do.
Not too sure if I'll do one again.
Looking forward to seeing how the brakes feel and how the diff changes things
I'll be fitting a dual cotton cone with cold air feeds, not too sure if this will help but 100% convinced it won't hurt
Not too sure if I'll do one again.
Looking forward to seeing how the brakes feel and how the diff changes things
I'll be fitting a dual cotton cone with cold air feeds, not too sure if this will help but 100% convinced it won't hurt
Something you should consider before getting harnesses with no cage;
If you were to roll the car you would be held in place, upright in your seat, by the harness. If you don't have a cage the chances of the roof collapsing are high, which could lead to serious neck injuries/broken neck, if not worse. If you have a 3-point belt you can still slide to the side, increasing the chances of avoiding this type of injury - there are many discussions on this if you google
Personally I'd suggest sticking with the oem 3-point belt with a cg lock until you have a cage fitted, at which point harnesses would be ideal.
Just my 2-cents!
If you were to roll the car you would be held in place, upright in your seat, by the harness. If you don't have a cage the chances of the roof collapsing are high, which could lead to serious neck injuries/broken neck, if not worse. If you have a 3-point belt you can still slide to the side, increasing the chances of avoiding this type of injury - there are many discussions on this if you google
Personally I'd suggest sticking with the oem 3-point belt with a cg lock until you have a cage fitted, at which point harnesses would be ideal.
Just my 2-cents!
Alright bud,
As you know I've had the ECS 308mm 2-piece discs on the rear for the last 4 years, I'm currently running them alongside the EBC Ultimax fronts after wearing out the ECS 312mm fronts. The difference in the braking balance is very noticeable, you really feel the erse digging in when you stand on them. I totally agree with what Rob said about flatter braking.
For brake bias etc our cars don't have a rear load proportioning valve, instead the ABS unit sorts it all out.
The Wavetrac diff differs from the Peloquin and Quaife in the way it sorts out the ATB. The mechanical diffs work by torque multiplication across the axle, so if one wheel can only manage 'X' %age, the diff multiplies this and sends it to the one with better grip.
Only problem is if you either have one wheel on a very low friction surface or worse, in the air. There will be ZERO torque on one side for the diff to multiply, and, if my primary school maths are still valid, anything x zero is still zero!
The Wavetrac has internal preload in the form of carbon discs which ensure there is always some force for the diff to work against and then multiply as needed.
Simples!
Id say keep the dash and just remove things you dont need from it, airbags, radio, climaate control, heater blower motor, usless switches, and then get it flocked. Get some plastic and blank off the front and put a few guages in and leave it at that, would look cool. Dashboard on its own weighs next to nothing, its whats in it where the weight is. Also to tidy it up you not thought of geting carbonfibre doorcards made?
Why not try a carbon bonnet? Or phone streamline carbon and get a carbon roof made? costs a fair bit but if your serious may be worth it. also not read the whole thread you got a full stainless exhaust as these weight alot less than standard? carbon bonets weight under 5kgs, and helps in the weight saving.
For the re-location id reccomend using this - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/0-AWG-Gauge-R...cles_Terminals_Cabling_ET?hash=item2c515a67c5
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/0-AWG-Gauge-B...cles_Terminals_Cabling_ET?hash=item27ac753662
0 gauge is very thick and wont suffer much, if no voltage drop.
Also heres a bonnet, wings, splitter, batterybox that may intrest you -
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Xsport-Racing...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3a53929975
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Xsport-Racing...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3ca64807a7
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Xsport-Racing...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3a5392c79b
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Xsport-Racing...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3a4f36237b
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