Autogauge vs Autometer Phantom vs Glowshifts
- Thread starter ChrisGTL
- Start date
can i ask a favour from one of you Autogauge guys, can some just put in nice and easy black and white what wires go to where, at the min only one of the backlights on mine works yet i know the needle itself should illuminate and i also know it's possible for them to hold colour memory but mine always defaults back to blue , thanks 
Right then, if your gauge is the same as mine wire it as follows.
Gauge Power.
Thick Yellow - Permanent Live 12v,
Thick Purple and Thick Orange - Twist them together and connect to a switched live. (One that becomes live when you switch your lights on.)
Thick Black - A Good Earth.
Sender Power.
Thin Black - A Good Earth. (With the thick black).
Thin Green - To the Red (or sometimes it's white) Wire on your sender.
Thin Red - To a Permanent Live 12v (With the Thick Yellow).
The Sender.
Red (Or White) - To the Thin Green Wire as mentioned above.
Black - I connected mine directly to the battery negative (-).
It's especially important that you connect the thin red to a permanent live, if you connect it to the switched live from your lights it will read slightly lower than normal and the needle will go up and down with your dimmer switch.
Do all of this correctly and the gauge should remember what colour it was when you switched your ignition off (although these Halfords gauges don't always remember no matter how you wire them up) and the temperature needle should still read with the engine/ignition off.
Hope this helps, worked for me but if your car catches fire I cannot be held responsible.
If anyone thinks I've got it wrong please let me know, we don't want any disasters do we?
__________________
Gauge Power.
Thick Yellow - Permanent Live 12v,
Thick Purple and Thick Orange - Twist them together and connect to a switched live. (One that becomes live when you switch your lights on.)
Thick Black - A Good Earth.
Sender Power.
Thin Black - A Good Earth. (With the thick black).
Thin Green - To the Red (or sometimes it's white) Wire on your sender.
Thin Red - To a Permanent Live 12v (With the Thick Yellow).
The Sender.
Red (Or White) - To the Thin Green Wire as mentioned above.
Black - I connected mine directly to the battery negative (-).
It's especially important that you connect the thin red to a permanent live, if you connect it to the switched live from your lights it will read slightly lower than normal and the needle will go up and down with your dimmer switch.
Do all of this correctly and the gauge should remember what colour it was when you switched your ignition off (although these Halfords gauges don't always remember no matter how you wire them up) and the temperature needle should still read with the engine/ignition off.
Hope this helps, worked for me but if your car catches fire I cannot be held responsible.
If anyone thinks I've got it wrong please let me know, we don't want any disasters do we?
__________________
too right we don't
thanks for that mate
, will compare with whats happening currently connection wise
I've tried all 3. The Auto-Meter was the most accurate but the most expensive and as mentioned above the back light was not the best, mine was like a dull orange glow. I did'nt like the Glow-Shift right from the start. I might have been unlucky because plenty of people on here like them but mine rattled, read lower than the Auto-Meter (because it did'nt return to zero), took 3 1/2 weeks to arrive and if you get it from eBay USA you get stung for another £13 for duty tax and Royal Mail fees when you pick it up from the Post Office. The Auto-Gauge (Halfords) ones are the best all round for me. They're pretty cheap, read ok and match the LCR instruments both day and night. Shame about the silver surrounds.
i agree, my glow shift load of crap rattles too!
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