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What engine is it? What mods/power?
Basically you need a low quality oil (mineral & additives), this promotes piston rings bedding in. Usualy run for 500miles using peak torque. Millers oils do a classic running in oil and a competition running in oil depending on the engine.
Then replace with your normal choice of oil.
Basically you need a low quality oil (mineral & additives), this promotes piston rings bedding in. Usualy run for 500miles using peak torque. Millers oils do a classic running in oil and a competition running in oil depending on the engine.
Then replace with your normal choice of oil.
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1.8t, i'm replacing rods, valves + springs, pistons, bearings etc. It's only on the std ko3 mapped at the minute but will be going ihi/gt28rs so 350bhp ish when finished.
So any cheap oil of a low viscosity, 5w30? for the intial run in then back on to normal 10w40 after that yeah?
So any cheap oil of a low viscosity, 5w30? for the intial run in then back on to normal 10w40 after that yeah?
Ok, so not a classic engine then.
So:-
I'm not sure who makes a running-in oil apart from us at Millers so I would recommend this to you.
Millers CRO 10w/40 for 500miles after re-build (don't rev the engine or use high revs, just use the low down torque as much as possible)
Then replace with Millers XF Longlife 5w/30 full synthetic (again don't rev high till you've done 1,000miles)
Your engine should then be nicely bedded in.
Hope this helps.
Backdraft
Guest
Millers do another running in oil thats fine to use with turbos. Its a special blend thats made to order and not on their website (iirc). Change from running in oil after 20 miles and dont use the longlife stuff, use the millers cfs 5w40 or 10w40 depending on what you use the car for.
No need to run an engine in slowly. Pressure is needed behind the rings to get them to wear to the bores fast and seal well.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
No need to run an engine in slowly. Pressure is needed behind the rings to get them to wear to the bores fast and seal well.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Have you got a link to what this oil is?
So your telling me the complete opposite to what ChrisGTl is saying and that i need to drive it hard for the first 20 miles then change the oil for normal everyday use oil and all be good?
I always thought you need to run in it fairly gentle with only a mid boost but i'm no expert hence the question.
So your telling me the complete opposite to what ChrisGTl is saying and that i need to drive it hard for the first 20 miles then change the oil for normal everyday use oil and all be good?
I always thought you need to run in it fairly gentle with only a mid boost but i'm no expert hence the question.
millers running in oil on mine,take the car to where you think peak torque to be then back off for running in.change oil after 6-700 miles and it will be fine.mine doesn't use a drop! http://www.millersoils.net/1_Millers_frame_MOTORSPORT.htm
Right'o.
What BHP will the engine be producing after rebuild?
Are you using the rolling road or normal driving method for bedding engine in?
I've asked a technical chap to advise me on your situation, I told him you will most likely use the normal road use to bed the engine in. This is his reply:
CRO 10/40 for 500 miles, using the BMEP (Brake Mean Effective Pressure) to run-in your engine. You want to use your 'torque' band to build up as much pressure behind the pistons as possible. This may mean loading your boot with heavy bags of sand or simply getting 3 large friends to sit in the car as you drive it. Don't bog the engine down, use a nice steady band of torque but excessive reving is not required. (if you have had a RR graph already you should be able to work out where this band will be in relation to RPM)
After 500miles of the above he recommends something like Millers Maxifleet 10/40 which is a good quality semi-synth with a good additive pack to bed the engine in for a further 2,000 miles. Still using your torque band but increasing the revs as you get past the first 1,000 miles, use your upper RPM's and make your engine scream as you get close to your final 1,000 miles on Maxifleet 10/40.
Finally replace the Maxifleet 10/40 for your choice of full synthetic (if your running plenty of BHP and doing some hot weather track days) then use a competition full synthetic like the CFS 10/40 which has a tri-ester blend and includes a low friction ester to minimise power loss. If you are using your car for more eco purposes then a full synthetic 5/30 (VAG 504.00/507.00) will be fine and cheaper than the CFS 10/40.
Hope this helps.
What BHP will the engine be producing after rebuild?
Are you using the rolling road or normal driving method for bedding engine in?
I've asked a technical chap to advise me on your situation, I told him you will most likely use the normal road use to bed the engine in. This is his reply:
CRO 10/40 for 500 miles, using the BMEP (Brake Mean Effective Pressure) to run-in your engine. You want to use your 'torque' band to build up as much pressure behind the pistons as possible. This may mean loading your boot with heavy bags of sand or simply getting 3 large friends to sit in the car as you drive it. Don't bog the engine down, use a nice steady band of torque but excessive reving is not required. (if you have had a RR graph already you should be able to work out where this band will be in relation to RPM)
After 500miles of the above he recommends something like Millers Maxifleet 10/40 which is a good quality semi-synth with a good additive pack to bed the engine in for a further 2,000 miles. Still using your torque band but increasing the revs as you get past the first 1,000 miles, use your upper RPM's and make your engine scream as you get close to your final 1,000 miles on Maxifleet 10/40.
Finally replace the Maxifleet 10/40 for your choice of full synthetic (if your running plenty of BHP and doing some hot weather track days) then use a competition full synthetic like the CFS 10/40 which has a tri-ester blend and includes a low friction ester to minimise power loss. If you are using your car for more eco purposes then a full synthetic 5/30 (VAG 504.00/507.00) will be fine and cheaper than the CFS 10/40.
Hope this helps.
cool, what oil you running now?
After the rebuild it will be running 200bhp ish then after an the new turbo it will hopefully be 350ish. i'll be using the road method to run it in as it's cheaper!!Lol
So CRO 10/40 for 500 miles, with a boot full of "stuff" to add weight i pressume to make the engine work a bit harder in the torque zone, i assume this is just before peak torque is made?
Then Maxifleet 10/40 for 2000 miles increasing the revs in the last 1k,
Then CFS 10/40 for everyday use or a suitable oil for track and road use.
Backdraft
Guest
Dump the running in oil after 20 miles, then replace with running in oil again. Click the link in post 6 for good info.
Yeah i had a look on that link and it was an interesting read, is that how you run your race engines in?
So dump the running in oil after 20 miles then replace with running in oil and change after another 20 miles for a proper oil ?
I'm still confused as to which method will be best cos your both saying different ways!
Backdraft
Guest
Its how all the engines are run in here. Seems to work the best out of all the ways we have tried.
We dump the first lot of running in oil after 20 miles then use more running in oil for around the next 500-1000 miles depending if we finish the running in or when the customer can bring the car back. We then change it over to the CFS 5w40 or 10w40 depending on the cars use. A mix between our way and the way in post 11 should be fine. I would deffo dump the oil after 20 miles for fresh running in oil.
We dump the first lot of running in oil after 20 miles then use more running in oil for around the next 500-1000 miles depending if we finish the running in or when the customer can bring the car back. We then change it over to the CFS 5w40 or 10w40 depending on the cars use. A mix between our way and the way in post 11 should be fine. I would deffo dump the oil after 20 miles for fresh running in oil.
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