Oil temperature on ASZ (Ibiza 130 TDI Sport)

[the_fbi]

My oil temperature has always been near enough dead on 90 degrees, yet today on the way to work I noticed it had crept up to perhaps 95.

On the way home it was hovering around 110, pretty stable. I was hoping to find I'd driven over some newspaper which was blocking the grills on the bumper, but nope, all clear.

Oil is only ~3k old and there's the right amount in the engine.

What is "normal" and what are people seeing from theirs?

Water temperature is spot on where it normally is (can't remember what number that is, but its in the middle of the dial).

I guess it could be an electrical issue, dirty contacts leading to higher resistance, but does this give higher or lower pressure?

Thoughts appreciated.

Thanks
Chris

 

[devonutopia]

My oil temp sender is tapped into the sump which is always going to be around 10 degrees lower than that going round the engine, but I rarely see temps higher than about 70 degrees unless I am really hooning it.

 

[the_fbi]

Had a look today after work (worked from home today so no miles) and seems I've used about 1L of water since Sunday (104 miles), which isn't good. Clearly low water = hot oil. (unless I'm reading my gauges all wrong and the little oil can is actually water and the little thermometer is actually oil, which is backwards).

Started the car up and noticed a drip from the rear of the sump shield on the passenger side.

Went for a short drive and the drip had gone, so had about 300ml of water.

Looking under the bonnet there is a wet patch on the firewall, just off centre, half way between centre and the ABS pump, also water on the top of gearbox mount (or whatever the cast ally thing is below the steering rack).

There are 3 pipes, or perhaps 2 pipes and one control cable, running across the top of the steering rack, one large, one medium and one small (possibly control cable), any idea what these are. I'm guessing large and medium may be the ps fluid but so it can't be them leaking as thats not water.

Nowhere higher up is wet, its like something sprayed out around the height of the ABS pump but there's nothing there with water.

I'm glad its not head gasket, but I'd like to know where its coming from

 

[beezanick]

Glad its not the head gasket, hopefully just a burst pipe. Can you run the engine with the bonnet up to see where the leak is? Mabey try reving it a little to increase the water presssure in the system.

 

[the_fbi]

Can you run the engine with the bonnet up to see where the leak is? Mabey try reving it a little to increase the water presssure in the system.

Annoyingly, although good, since I put the further 300ml in its not lost any.

I also hate to admit, but I stuck some radweld in, fingers crossed.

Given it needs a new cambelt, DMF is vibrating (140k+) I may just plop in a different engine. Will probably work out cheaper than doing what this one needs. That said, I've not got another MOT'd car atm

 

[beezanick]

Its good that its not loosing anymore fluid. My head gasket was going on a 1.4L polo a few years back, and radweld sorted that out fine, its not all bad Would you get a recon engine? how much do you recon that would cost out of interest?

 

[Robb1990]

id guess at a seal around the themostat/coolant temp sender. they are all around that height. Have a feel around that area for damp patches.

 

[the_fbi]

id guess at a seal around the themostat/coolant temp sender. they are all around that height. Have a feel around that area for damp patches.

Thats on the nearside of the bay? I couldn't see anything of interest at all, very bare block that side, probably 12" of free space between engine and firewall.

Noticed the nylon bush on the gear linkage was worn too, was vibrating all over the place.

Nick: No idea how much a recon would be, probably over £1k as 2nd hand ones go for quite a bit still. There is however a 130TDI at a breakers locally, which apart from all the hassle fitting, would cost less than a cambelt and DMF alone.

I'm sure it'll run on for a while yet. I do just over 2k a month in it so it'll soon get to the point it wants to really die and when that time comes, nothing will stop it.

 

[beezanick]

Thats a big undertaking - fitting a new engine. I widh I had the tools/knowhow to be able to a job like that!

Is it easier to fintd the leak and fix it, or replace the engine? At least youve bought yourself some time now the leak has stopped. Im hoping my 130 will do 150K no problem, as I am doing a similar milage to you.

 

[the_fbi]

Realistically, fitting an engine is actually a lot easier than a cambelt change on one. Only thing which is really necessary but not commonly to hand is an engine crane.

Just a load of mounts to undo, connection to gearbox, a few pipes (exhaust/inlet) and electrical connections, then replace and remake the connections.

A cambelt change you actually need to know what you should be doing, locking what in what position, setting what tension where and what little mark pointing where etc.

I'm not suggesting that if the engine wasn't perfect and needed just a cambelt change I'd swap the engine instead, but the time/effort/cost of a DMF in situe, and a cambelt change in situe has to warrant the more cost effective idea of an engine change, to a lower mileage one too.

That said, 105 miles futher on, temperature has been normal, no leak and water level still OK.

I think the leak may be a bit sporadic, so it may not be fixed, but for now I'm happy.