I think on the basis of this i might just hack out some more of my airbox - i'm assuming the ability to 'flow' is dependant on the surface area of the filter. An panel filter probably has the same surface area as a large cone - time to get hacking 
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At speed with a really good intake would you be able to get any RAM AIR effect?
Would you need to map for that?
Just an open question........I have no idea of the answer....
.....assume RAM AIR is only effective at higher speeds anyway (...Which I think answers my question ref mapping lol)
Would you need to map for that?
Just an open question........I have no idea of the answer....
.....assume RAM AIR is only effective at higher speeds anyway (...Which I think answers my question ref mapping lol)
Whats the point of ramair on a turbo charged engine - you can't force the air in faster than it is being sucked in - or that's my limited understanding? ( at the speeds we'd be talking about on the road)
Actually, it's more to do with keeping positive pressure in the airbox (or more positive, if you catch me).
The turbo has to less work to "pull" the air along the intake, airbox and TIP if it's as free as possible, and can use that effort on compressing the charge...
In layman's terms (i.e. mine )
I can't remember the formula, but P Drop on the intake has a direct effect on the turbo's efficiency.
The turbo has to less work to "pull" the air along the intake, airbox and TIP if it's as free as possible, and can use that effort on compressing the charge...
In layman's terms (i.e. mine
)I can't remember the formula, but P Drop on the intake has a direct effect on the turbo's efficiency.
So technically providing more 'pushed air' is a tiny bit better than having less restriction on the air available.
Also one other question with regards to an open cone (and again it's an open question)
My understanding was that if say you have a 30 minute crawl through city centre traffic (normal for quite a few daily drivers) on a warm summers day (no further comment on British weather needed )with an open cone there was more likelyhood of heatsoak / limp mode etc when you finally hit the open road (opposed to std airbox or cold feed). In this situation you could get really high temps under the bonnet
My understanding was that if say you have a 30 minute crawl through city centre traffic (normal for quite a few daily drivers) on a warm summers day (no further comment on British weather needed
)with an open cone there was more likelyhood of heatsoak / limp mode etc when you finally hit the open road (opposed to std airbox or cold feed). In this situation you could get really high temps under the bonnet 
Also one other question with regards to an open cone (and again it's an open question)
My understanding was that if say you have a 30 minute crawl through city centre traffic (normal for quite a few daily drivers) on a warm summers day (no further comment on British weather needed
strange though that a 30min crawl puts the oil temp down to 90... foot down goes to 100+. although the air around the engine gets hotter it dosnt effect the internal temp.
foot down and you either suck that in or it blows away as you move.. but i think it would recycle that air so fast it wouldnt cause a problem.
how many litres of air does it suck at 30mph, compared to how many warm litres sit in the engine bay?
Under bonnet air is bound to be hotter (less dense) than outside air at any time in a drive.
The heatsoak thing is more to do with components along the inlet tract getting hot due to under bonnet temperatures (radiant heat) and being bolted to a big metal thing that gets hot (conductive). Main culprit has to be the inlet manifold as it's bolted to the hottest bit, is in direct contact with the intake air and has the IAT sensor in it. We had a discussion with maxtorque some time ago about whether the ECU has a temperature gradient designed in, which basically resulted in "yes it does, but it's an assumption".
When I had the turbo display fitted (which had a separate intake temp sensor near the MAP) you could see the effect of the heatsoak when you compared it to the IAT from Vag-Com. I came to the conclusion that it was worth sticking a insulating gasket on, as it's a relatively cheap mod, the rest of the pipework and (I believe) intercooler(s) cool down pretty quick once you're on the move as they have a low thermal mass (i.e. they're thinner, lighter components that don't hold the heat as much). I could see the post intercooler temperature drop like a stone as soon as the air was flowing again.
Engine bay ambient will generally be hotter than outside, but the main culprit for this HAS to be the turbo, which radiates significantly more heat (relatively) when you're on boost (i.e. moving) than when not. I can imagine if you're out for a rag, then suddenly have to stop, heatsoak will be an issue, for a few minutes after you've got going again (at speed).
When I had the standard airbox on with no air feed and no snorkel I got higher peak MAF figures than with a snorkel, but the car felt better with the snorkel and the scoop.
Essentially, my lay (amateur) opinion is that the "under bonnet air is bad" statement is exagerrated by people that don't understand it, BUT why would you not get the coldest (most dense) air from the point of highest pressure fed through an insulated intake manifold?
But, then again
The heatsoak thing is more to do with components along the inlet tract getting hot due to under bonnet temperatures (radiant heat) and being bolted to a big metal thing that gets hot (conductive). Main culprit has to be the inlet manifold as it's bolted to the hottest bit, is in direct contact with the intake air and has the IAT sensor in it. We had a discussion with maxtorque some time ago about whether the ECU has a temperature gradient designed in, which basically resulted in "yes it does, but it's an assumption".
When I had the turbo display fitted (which had a separate intake temp sensor near the MAP) you could see the effect of the heatsoak when you compared it to the IAT from Vag-Com. I came to the conclusion that it was worth sticking a insulating gasket on, as it's a relatively cheap mod, the rest of the pipework and (I believe) intercooler(s) cool down pretty quick once you're on the move as they have a low thermal mass (i.e. they're thinner, lighter components that don't hold the heat as much). I could see the post intercooler temperature drop like a stone as soon as the air was flowing again.
Engine bay ambient will generally be hotter than outside, but the main culprit for this HAS to be the turbo, which radiates significantly more heat (relatively) when you're on boost (i.e. moving) than when not. I can imagine if you're out for a rag, then suddenly have to stop, heatsoak will be an issue, for a few minutes after you've got going again (at speed).
When I had the standard airbox on with no air feed and no snorkel I got higher peak MAF figures than with a snorkel, but the car felt better with the snorkel and the scoop.
Essentially, my lay (amateur) opinion is that the "under bonnet air is bad" statement is exagerrated by people that don't understand it, BUT why would you not get the coldest (most dense) air from the point of highest pressure fed through an insulated intake manifold?
But, then again
Does the jabba heatschield eliminates some of the heatsoak ? or is it just sale-talk ?
i also like some more sound from the DV and engine
because i was thinking of buying one
Does the jabba heatschield eliminates some of the heatsoak ? or is it just sale-talk ?
i also like some more sound from the DV and engine
because i was thinking of buying one
The poster your quoted was talking utter nonsense. It makes little to no difference what temperature the air is at the filter. An intake air temperature of 20 deg C and an intake temp of 0 deg C will end up identical by the time they go through the turbo and intercooler.
The Jabba kit is outstanding, I had a Dynatwist on my previous LC and a BMC CDA on the one before that. The Jabbasport induction kit with heatshield is the best sounding and best performing by a long long way.
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Yep it works a treat,ive run car hard then popped bonnet and the filter is still cold.The heat shield is hot though so its doing the job.Theres no way warm air gets near the filter.You will get loads of noise from it too.
In my opinion the jabba heat shield is much more substantial.It also forms a tight seal against the bonet insulation.As far as the filter goes not much really as both now use k&n i think.The stainless heatshied is a really strong well fabricated bit of kit and fits perfectly in the space were the air box was and looks great.Ive had mine on for about 2 years now,still original filter,just clean every 5000miles or so.The heatshield looks as good now as when it was new.When i got mine there wasnt much difference in price between the two and as the jabba looked better i went for that.Dont know if thats still the case now though.
jgo
Guest
Just wondering if anybody had tied this R32 DSG set up on a LCR.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2647069
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothrea...ostid=50890592
http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/oem-...it_739770.html
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2647069
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothrea...ostid=50890592
http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/oem-...it_739770.html
Ok, so I went with a Neuspeed P-Flo in the end. Thanks to all who posted here, helped me make a decision that was right for me.
For reference, here are the pics. They now come with a Neuspeed Cone as opposed to the K&N.
For reference, here are the pics. They now come with a Neuspeed Cone as opposed to the K&N.
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i prefer the viper cross filter from pipercross. with long cold air feed
Pipercross Viper Induction kills MAF's. What they dont tell you is that they spray the foam insert with some protective stuff that coats the element in the MAF and causes it to die... normally within a month. I replaced the Viper induction kit with a cotton filter from Jetex and have had no problems since.
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