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Losing Power Whilst Idle at Traffic Lights

mickeykdan

Active Member
Dec 19, 2007
114
0
UK
I had just been on a 30 min drive around town. As I was coming home I had to stop at a traffic light. The car was idling fine until i took the handbrake off and put my foot on the gas. For the 2nd time in about 4 months my car cut out leaving me stuck at the front of the queue at the traffic lights. As I had this problem before i tried to get it started by using the solution to what got me back up and running as before - Rev the nuts off the car whilst putting key in ignition and turning. Luckily, this got me started again after the 3rd or 4th attempt, and I could now head off home.

What could the problem be? As this happened after about 30 minutes of driving - most of time driving in high gears due to the snow im thinking its eaither a cold engine issue ( I dont think it really can be a coldness issue as the last time it happened and today I had been driving around for a while before it lost power whilst pulling off.

Could it be possible that some "shitty" fuel caused a flaw in the ignition process or the fuel wasn't burning as I was driving in high gears?

I should add that this was the first time in driving it in about 3 days as I walked to work due to the snowy weather.

Thoughts please..

Thanks
 

CIarkie

Active Member
Jun 12, 2005
225
0
Basingstoke
I had an issue with mine where it would idle fine but wouldnt rev past 1400 rpm, just hit a barrier. final problem was wiring with the throttle position sensor (shorted out). Really caused strange issue so worth checking the wiring id say. Mine would drive fine then a bump or knock would fudge me up as the bare wires would touch. Im no expert :redface: but i saw no replys and thought i would share my issue. Intermittant ignition is a different kettle of fish me thinks, may be worth looking at replacing distributor cap/rotor arm as mine was outrageous when i replaced mine... and it can only help things. Apart from that im affraid a more experienced reply is required.
 

mickeykdan

Active Member
Dec 19, 2007
114
0
UK
I should add that on the first few attempts on both occasions when turning ignition on and revving the car, it would rev up to not sure what rpm then die again immediatly. to get it going i really had to put my foot down and rev it. I pulled away to the side of a sidestreet earlier and came to a halt to see if the problem occured again which it didnt, it ran fine..
 

toonfiend

Hail to the Plug!!!!
Jun 27, 2008
159
0
Theres a few things you could try, Im definatly no expert on ignition and fuelling but try the obvious stuff out first,
Check your plugs
Check all your HT leads are in good order
Definatly try a new Distributor cap (only about a fiver)
Put on a new fuel filter (again only about £5 and 10 minutes to change)
Try cleaning out your Idle Control Valve and all associated pipes (Lots of posts on this)
Check your air filter is clean and not blocked
Check the electrical connectors on your throttle body (are they fastened properly, any corroded wires etc)
If youve got a spare 40 quid get a new coil, mine went last winter and the first sign of it going was the engine just used to cut out while idling. When it does pack up totally your car will just not start.

I had an idling problem on mine but it went the opposite way, it would sit at the lights revving at 2-3K and it was my ICV, it was full of cr@p, cleaned it out and its been ok since. Hopefully your problem will be something simple aswell.Let uz know how you get on.
 

mickeykdan

Active Member
Dec 19, 2007
114
0
UK
Thanks for the input thus far.

From what you have listed I will write on how I stand with the symptoms:

-Plugs SHOULD be ok as they were changed in November during service but I will check them again.
-HT Leads need to be checked.
-Distributor Cap has not been checked since service
-Fuel filter replaced in November during service.
-I cleaned Idle control valve when placing new air filter directly onto it. As described this has only happened twice; once before the new air filter went on, and once 3 - 4 months after the first occurence.
-The electrical connecters need to be checked. I initially thought this is what the problem could be.
-New Coil - My final option once all of the above have been checked / replaced.

When I first bought the car I had an idling problem similarly to yours and cleaning out the ICV and replacing plugs elimated the problem. At this point the car would start but It stuggled to Idle when started. This used to happen quite frequently but this problem has now gone.

This time, the Car loses power and when turning the ignition on, the car responds but then immediately loses power. Twice this has happened in around 4 months. I just hope it doesnt turn into a frequent problem. Id like to eliminate all symptons before this happens.
 

mickeykdan

Active Member
Dec 19, 2007
114
0
UK
Update:

I just went to take car out to fill up and see how she responded after yesterday but the engine starts then loses power immediatly.

I just checked the throttle body and that is clear.

It looks as if it can only be either of the following:

Faulty electrical connection in the ignition circuit - The Distrib. Cap is covered in **** lol.

Coil replacement as per previous post.

Possibly a blocked injector or fuel system fault?
 

mickeykdan

Active Member
Dec 19, 2007
114
0
UK
Ive just been back outside to disconnect battery to reset ECU and see if this solves anything but no luck.



A Vacuum Leak - This is another possibility?

So far Narrowed down to Distributor cap, Electrical fault or faulty coil.
 

Kai_1600

Shallow
Dec 10, 2005
410
0
Manchester
haha i've had the AA out a couple of times with this!

My car keys went through the wash and the immobiliser chip hasn't been the same since :(

It'll start up then die straight away cos the immobiliser is cutting the fuel
 

Brummy

Nazi Moderator-Bot
Mar 6, 2005
4,275
0
Moved to the DarkSide
Coil, HT leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm.. sparks..

also clean TB.

really sounds like the random cut out issue I had.. turns out with mine it was the main lead from coil to
dizzy cap was cracked at the cap end and was arcing out .
I couldnt see this of course even when outside my house checking stuff over , it was actually my neighbour that spotted it as i turned the engine over..noew set of leads, hey presto not done it since
 

mickeykdan

Active Member
Dec 19, 2007
114
0
UK
Ive spoken to my garage this morning and I have been told it sounds like a distributor fault. Does this sound possble / ring any bells?
 

mickeykdan

Active Member
Dec 19, 2007
114
0
UK
Yes Ive read each reply which have been a great help, however, thus far the only mention has been a distributor 'cap' and not the whole distributor unit itself. That's why I raised my last question.
 
Dec 17, 2006
1,837
0
Bristol
The cap is the usual part of the distributor to fail. Have you checked it?

Edit: A cap will be much cheaper than the distributor unit itself.
 

orangemuffin

i love you all.......
Sep 24, 2008
1,747
0
yesterday
Are you actually reading any of the replies? Three people mention the distributor/distributor cap.

bit harsh...


my 8v has started doing this to. Coming up to a roundabout / lights in first gear it looses power and you actually see the lights dip in the car....untill you give it some gas and then its fine. Only had it serviced 1k ago though......will keep an eye on it !
 

mickeykdan

Active Member
Dec 19, 2007
114
0
UK
I had mine serviced too less than 1k miles ago.

The distributor is around £80 to replace the whole unit. It doesnt look as if I will be able to pin-point it myself without stripping what it could be and replacing them so it looks as if im just going to take it to the garage and get them to inspect and repair. When a decision has been made I will notify all of the outcome.
 

toonfiend

Hail to the Plug!!!!
Jun 27, 2008
159
0
I`ll have a fiver on the coil.....
Definately change just your distributor CAP only first, see what that does. Its always worth doing all the small cheap stuff first. My cap was rancid, all the teminals were worn right down and it was minging inside.
A quick check you can do on your leads is with the engine running feel each lead with your thumb and forefinger, you should feel nothing, if you feel like a slight clicking sensation something could be afoot....
Also, I know you say you had new plugs, did you do them yourself?, never take a garages word for it, and make sure you check the gap, even a slight difference can affect the running of the car.
 

bwtalbot

Active Member
Feb 10, 2009
40
0
Have you tried cleaning the throttle body air intake? It can cure stalling problems or low idling. Can of cleaner costs about £5 from Halfrauds.

Take off the air filter and housing (just unscrew the 4 numbered screws) and you'll see a big hole. Spray the cleaner into that whilst revving the balls off the engine. You can also udjust the throttle cable from here.

Any joy?
 
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