ball joint mot failure, how to fix

[Markyboyt]

There's a guide somewhere on the order of bleeding..........

Start from the bleed nipple furthest away from the reservoir as a general rule as thats going to be the longest pipe, can mess it up when you have a reservoir one side but a traction control unit the other but its not essential any way, just good practice. do the rears then the fronts.

 

[james walker]

gonna sound dumb now, is that the nipple on the caliper, as on the fronts the caliper wont be on, do i have to attach them, the new ones then bleed via the nipples on the caliper?

novice on bleeding im afraid!

 

[Markyboyt]

yep sore, got a few of those today as it is, cv boot.......

is that whilst holding the allen key in, bloody hell how many hands do you have!!!!!!!!!!

Hold the allen key bit with your weakest hand then turn the nut with your best. I say allen key, don't use an actual allen key as you won't have much leverage, use at least a 3/8 allen key socket and a ratchet or knuckle bar, if you havent got a socket then halfords do them quite cheap.

Your a brave man doing a CV boot, I hate doing em, such a mucky dirty job. I had to do one on my gf's corsa last weekend, wasnt too bad.

 

[Markyboyt]

gonna sound dumb now, is that the nipple on the caliper, as on the fronts the caliper wont be on, do i have to attach them, the new ones then bleed via the nipples on the caliper?

novice on bleeding im afraid!

yes don't bleed it until youve closed the system and finished, its got to be the last thing you do.

Obviously if you do the rears one day the fronts the next and plan to drive inbetween then you will need to bleed it after each time

 

[james walker]

easy job, but yeah filthy youre right....

didnt have to remove the driveshaft for this one.

 

[Markyboyt]

easy job, but yeah filthy youre right....

didnt have to remove the driveshaft for this one.

Oh did ya get one of the stretchy boots that go over the joint then shrink back down?

They don't seem to make them for the corsa so I had to take the joint off, bloody circlips lol

 

[james walker]

no, the boot and joint had to come off, passenger side so easy to remove without removing the driveshaft.

circlips are shite, dont like them one little bit.

 

[james walker]

yes don't bleed it until youve closed the system and finished, its got to be the last thing you do.

Obviously if you do the rears one day the fronts the next and plan to drive inbetween then you will need to bleed it after each time

so what do i do when replacing new brake lines, im going goodridge.....

 

[Markyboyt]

so what do i do when replacing new brake lines, im going goodridge.....

Change them and then bleed them, basically if you have opened the braking system (except for the reservoir) then you need to bleed the system fully before driving the vehicle. your best doing it all the brake components your fitting in one hit then bleed the system fully. If you are unsure of the bleeding procedure then it would be worth bleeding the brakes til you think they're bled and will suffice then take your car somewhere to get them bled for definite, the last thing you want is uncertainty over the effectiveness of your brakes.

I would advise checking the points where your brake flexi hoses join the solid pipes for rust, corrosion and crap, wire brushing them off and spraying WD40 or some form of rust penetrating oil onto them a few days before you do them, they tend to get quite seized and sometimes things can break.

 

[james walker]

im okay with the procedure to bleed, just never done it before, might just fit the brakes then take it to be bled.

maybe we could do with a definative guide on brake upgrades and bleeding the system.

 

[Markyboyt]

im okay with the procedure to bleed, just never done it before, might just fit the brakes then take it to be bled.

maybe we could do with a definative guide on brake upgrades and bleeding the system.

if your doing the brakes then taking it to be bled you will need to bleed it yourself first too

 

[james walker]

back onto the brake bleeding guys....

basically im going to use easybleed, so lets get this rite

1. fit the new 996 calipers
2. fit the new lines and connect up

how do the lines get replaced, do i need to clamp the lines at the top to stop fluid pissing out?

bleed the whole system, keep bleeding until new fluid comes out of the nipple?

what about the clutch, it uses the same reservoir so i need to bleed this also yeah?
is this the same principle....

cheers

 

[james walker]

also master cylinder does this need bleeding aswell?

 

[Markyboyt]

back onto the brake bleeding guys....

basically im going to use easybleed, so lets get this rite

1. fit the new 996 calipers
2. fit the new lines and connect up

how do the lines get replaced, do i need to clamp the lines at the top to stop fluid pissing out?

bleed the whole system, keep bleeding until new fluid comes out of the nipple?

what about the clutch, it uses the same reservoir so i need to bleed this also yeah?
is this the same principle....

cheers ?

Personally I would do one corner at a time, remove the caliper and carrier ( i presume you are changing carrier too) leaving the flexi connected, remove the flexi from the brake pipe along with the caliper get your new line on and then clamp it, attach your caliper to the new line and fit it to the carrier and onto the hub while your their.
If you dont want to clamp your new brake lines then do it as above but dont clamp the line, instead just nip the flexi up onto the brake pipe and then get the caliper on the end then do final tighten to decrease the time the fluid is leaking out.

Do that for them all and then when your finished do your bleed, it might be worth in between each corner making sure the fluid reservoir is topped up to save it emptying and drawing in air at the start of the system, you might however find that you don't actually lose that much.

Personally I wouldn't worry about the clutch because that will be on its own circuit.

 

[james walker]

so no need to bleed clutch even though its drawn from the same resevoir?

when i disconnect the hose from the line will it leak fluid everywhere?

cheers for help...

also im gonna flush the whole system and replace with new fluid, will i not need to do the clutch still?
what about the master cylinder, does that need doing

 

[Markyboyt]

so no need to bleed clutch even though its drawn from the same resevoir?

when i disconnect the hose from the line will it leak fluid everywhere?

cheers for help...

also im gonna flush the whole system and replace with new fluid, will i not need to do the clutch still?
what about the master cylinder, does that need doing

The reservoir is just a supply tank for the fluid, the hydraulics of the system are seperate so you will be ok. Master cylinder included.

When you say flush the sytem are you actually going to flush it through with something? or just bleed the old fluid out with new fluid?
Are you putting some super brake fluid in or just standard stuff, if standard then still no need to bleed the clutch really, obviously if you want to you can but clutch's can be an art to bleed so are best left where possible.

 

[Markyboyt]

when i disconnect the hose from the line will it leak fluid everywhere?

Forgot this bit, when you disconnect the flexi you will find the fluid will drip constantly so have something to catch it, if you remove the flexi then put the new one back on, the time will be quite small minimising fluid loss and air intake.

I would recommend wearing some disposable gloves, latex ones or something and also having some kitchen roll to hand just to wipe your gloves dry if you need that bit extra grip. Also make sure no brake fluid contacts any paint.

Oh also another point to make sure is that when the caliper is in its fitted position the flexi hose can't be twisted as this is an MOT failure. So if the hose has lines down the length of it make sure they run straight

 

[james walker]

so... im going to bleed and put superdot 4 castrol back in, vag fluid is dot 4 anyway isnt it?

will i need to bleed clutch in that respect and master cylinder........

im with you on the calipers mate. thanks

 

[Markyboyt]

so... im going to bleed and put superdot 4 castrol back in, vag fluid is dot 4 anyway isnt it?

will i need to bleed clutch in that respect and master cylinder........

im with you on the calipers mate. thanks

I would still leave it myself, or you could drop of in somewhere and ask them to bleed it, not familiar with the set up on these but normally the clutch is bled at the slave cylinder which might be in your gearbox, whether you can gain access to it or not I don't know.

In regards to the brake fluid I imagine it's ok, it is possible to get high and low viscosity dot 4