Guide - Removing SAI, N249 & n112 valve

[Damoegan]

Just removed my SAI, N249 & N112 valves today and thought I'd do a little guide

What you will need:

330 ohm 10W resistors * 3 (from RS Components clicky)
Vac/boost pipe - about 0.5m (from placed like Forge)
Combi valve blanking plate (you can get them from Forge but I made mine myself)


I started by soldering some wire onto the resistors and adding some heat shrink for protection

I then set about removing the SAI be removing the 3 bolts holding the SAI bracket to the inlet manifold.

Then I removed the Combi valve so I could make a blenking plate to blank it off.

Blanking plate made

And fitted

Then to remove the SAI pump altogeather. Once the 3 retaining bolts are out and the electrical plug removed the SAI just come strait out

Then I unpluged the N249 & N112 valve electrical conectors and removed all pipe work and added 1 vac line from inlet manifold to top of DV (the white 'T' piece in this line is for my boost gauge)

 

[Damoegan]

Continued

Then for the resistors. Instead of cutting the plugs off I just pushed the resistors into the plug so I can go back to standard if I want to.

Finished results once it was all tidied up (sorry for the poor pics, I'll get some better ones)

Not drove very far yet but no CEL on so happy days

 

[wild willy]

Nice work there matey, resistors may get too hot for the tape though.

 

[RUM4MO]

Nice work there matey, resistors may get too hot for the tape though.

Yes, I'd think if you need these high wattage resistors then you should really extend all teh wiring and bolts them all to something to keep the temperature down. I see that they will only be "seeing" less than 0.5watt - so maybe some lower wattage ones would have been better - I'd guess that you were thinking that the high wattage ones would be safe over kill - but their extra weight will probably cause more problems than their higher robustness gives. Just a pity that you could not find the mating connector and bond 1 or 2 watt resistors to them instead!

 

[Damoegan]

Well the resistors I used have been used by other members on here with no problems so I think I will be ok.
As for heat, I've heard no complaints about them.

The electrical tape is just temp and will be done properly with some heat shrink when I get the time.

 

[wild willy]

Ask Sam of INA if he can get the plugs to fit the sockets which the resistors are pushed into. Does the car feel better to drive for it. The bay certainly looks alot neater.

 

[Damoegan]

Thats a good idea Willy, then it can be removed just as easy if I want to go back to standard but will look more OEM. I'll stick up a post in his section.

As for feeling different to drive, cant say I have noticed any difference realy. Just one less thing to go wrong and looks much neater.

 

[ruba]

I did the guide step by step, but twenty minutes later my car turned on the check engine light .... the faults faunds are:

17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Open Circuit
P1426 - 35-00 - -
17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Open Circuit
P1548 - 35-00 - -
17841 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299): Open Circuit
P1433 - 35-00 - -
17936 - Camshaft Timing Adj. Bank1 (N205): Open Circuit
P1528 - 35-00 - -
17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Open Circuit
P1432 - 35-00 - -
17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Open Circuit
P1287 - 35-00 - -


can anybody help me????

 

[Joens]

May I ask whats the point of removing these?

 

[mavras]

nice DIY!!
but what do you do with the CEL triggered by the absence of SAI?
I have REVO stg2 and after a couple hundred kilometers i got the 16795/P0411/001041 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected fault code.
How do you get round this one?

 

[Damoegan]

I just clear the fault until it comes back the next time....

 

[skahigh]

What gauge is the wire to the resistor?

 

[Damoegan]

What gauge is the wire to the resistor?

iirc I used 1.5mm mate.

 

[mavras]

I just clear the fault until it comes back the next time....

you see, that is what i want to avoid...
every time we clear the fault code we reset the ECU values and it has to adapt again (fuel trims etc).
Taken for granted that it takes about 200kms to adapt, our ECUs are basically never adapted, so are never getting the most out of chipping...!

I am wondering if Revo can do something about it?

 

[Damoegan]

you see, that is what i want to avoid...
every time we clear the fault code we reset the ECU values and it has to adapt again (fuel trims etc).
Taken for granted that it takes about 200kms to adapt, our ECUs are basically never adapted, so are never getting the most out of chipping...!

I am wondering if Revo can do something about it?

I dont know anyone who dont get a fault code after doing this.

I was going to ask P-Torque to see if they could map it out. Would be interesting to see what Revo say too.

 

[mavras]

I dont know anyone who dont get a fault code after doing this.

I know Unitronic Chipped has mapped it out, so i am sure it can be done.

 

[Damoegan]

I know Unitronic Chipped has mapped it out, so i am sure it can be done.

I'm sure it could be mapped out.

 

[skahigh]

The site linked for the resistors appears to be trade only, what did you do about this?

 

[Damoegan]

The site linked for the resistors appears to be trade only, what did you do about this?

I'm sure you can register online. Or just go in and tell them your company name and pay cash over the counter.

 

[truss]

damo, what type are the connections you used to plug into the sockets?