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CCV Bypass - The Easy Cheapo Way :D ***GUIDE***

Robb1990

Active Member
May 14, 2008
299
0
Just finished doing this and i took some pics along the way, its taken be about an hour and the araldite is still curing...


Get your parts toeather, you will need....

1. Oasis bottle
2. Cable Ties
3. Washing machine Waste pipe
4. Small Jubilee clip x2
5. Araldite (Epoxy Resin)
Tools:
1. Posi screwdriver
2. Pliers
3. Stanley knife/cutting instrument

Step one:
Take off the connecting pipe between the breather diaphragm (big round plastic thing on the rocker cover) and itake pipe. Then get your parts together and finish off the last of the oasis (pour into another container if you dont want it right now)
DSC00362.jpg


Step Two:
Cut off the intake end of the tube you've just removed, then tape over the cut end with some nice thick tape, pour in your epoxy resin/hardner in equal parts into the tube till it fills about 1/3 or 1/4 of the way up. Leave this to one side as it'll take an hour or so to cure.
DSC00375.jpg


Step Three:
Cut down your waste pipe and push the cut end into the oasis bottle, use a cable tie around the plastic ring on the bottle and the tube to secure it.
DSC00364.jpg

DSC00369.jpg


Step Four:
Take the 90 degree bend you were left with after cutting the end off, insert the cut end into the other end of the waste pipe. Use a jubilee clip to tighten the 2 together
DSC00372.jpg


Step Five:
Take your newly made apparatus outside to your awaiting engine bay. Cable tie the oasis bottle to the bottom metal part of the oil filter (i needed three cable ties joined together) Then attach the other end to the crank case diaphragm.
DSC00371.jpg

DSC00370.jpg


Step six:
Replace the cap you filled with epoxy resin to the end of the pipe coming from intake tube.


EGR Blanking.
You dont need to do this if you dont want, but its easy to do as your under the bay anyway. (EGR blanking may cause CEL light.)


Step one:
Find a thick screw and remove the vac pipe. Push/screw in the screw untill the head touches the end of the vac pipe.

Step two:
Wrap the Vac pipe around the cable running along the top of the bay to top it swinging about like a donkey's **** in the wind.
DSC00380.jpg


And last but not least, put the kettle on!
DSC00383.jpg


Hope ive educated some people and you've enjoyed it! I did!. Sticky would be amazing!
 
Last edited:

muddyboots

Still hanging around
Oct 16, 2002
5,739
1
I'd be a bit concerned about how well those plastics will stand up to the heat generated close to the engine....imagine a sustained full power blast in summer and I reckon half of that will melt !

Good effort though and am liking your resourcefulness...
 

Robb1990

Active Member
May 14, 2008
299
0
I was actually thinking of that with the bottle close to the oil filter. Were in winter now so i doubt it'll be too bad, i defiantly will keep an eye on things in the summer thought like you say.
 

Robb1990

Active Member
May 14, 2008
299
0
Yeah but, i dont really want to spend £30 on a flashy shiny tank. I will change the hose at some point, but until then, this is still better than sending the oil back in.
 

Robb1990

Active Member
May 14, 2008
299
0
It stops oily residue being sucked from the crank case under high boost. The oil and soot from the EGR mix and make a horrible tar like paste that coats the inlet manifold, EGR valve, and inlet valves.
 
Dec 5, 2007
888
0
N W Leeds
Have you got smoke/steam drifting out of your bonnet when not moving? If not you soon will have especially after you tonk it a little.
Vapour discharge from CCV is considerable, no wonder egr and inlet manifold get smegged up.
 

UncleFester

Grumpier by the day!
Apr 30, 2006
4,764
1
Milton Keynes
www.facebook.com
Have you got smoke/steam drifting out of your bonnet when not moving? If not you soon will have especially after you tonk it a little.
Vapour discharge from CCV is considerable, no wonder egr and inlet manifold get smegged up.

It's also sufficient ( due to the mix of diesel fumes / oil) to block up the small filter that's provided for petrol engined catch tanks.

There are two ways of doing this

1. Mann Hummell provent style which is closed and returns the nasty ( oil vapour free) gases back to the inlet to be burned off.

2. Cheapo system as above without a filter to get blocked that vents the vapour to air however ;

i. It STINKS and covers your engine bay in a very fine mist of oil
ii. MOT tester will not be happy

I think a decent closed system with a nice wire wool filter would be fine, 19mm in and out to stop any pressure problems from blocked pipes / filters. Combine that with an EGR reducing plate and that's the best system.
 
Dec 5, 2007
888
0
N W Leeds
I have a catch tank that vents to air but way down under engine so no oil mist in engine bay, with the catch tank stuffed full of s/steel scourers to help provide a condensing point for anything in the oil fumes that come off.
CCV is not part of MOT as far as I recall. LESS likely to have emmisions problem with no CCV going back into system.
My EGR just disconnected. After spending 3 hours cleaning egr I don't want to have to do it again. I live with the CEL light and regularly check with VagCom.
 
Mar 8, 2007
831
0
Ultra Joel where/what have you mounted your catch tank to because £30 and some pipe isn't that expensive.

Mine is mounted to the side of the PD160 intake on the slam panel, drilled two holes on the side and bolted it on

Have you got smoke/steam drifting out of your bonnet when not moving? If not you soon will have especially after you tonk it a little.
Vapour discharge from CCV is considerable, no wonder egr and inlet manifold get smegged up.

Yes, I do get a white whisp of smoke from my breather filter when the engine is warm, however none of the fumes seem enter the cabin.

It's also sufficient ( due to the mix of diesel fumes / oil) to block up the small filter that's provided for petrol engined catch tanks.

There are two ways of doing this

1. Mann Hummell provent style which is closed and returns the nasty ( oil vapour free) gases back to the inlet to be burned off.

2. Cheapo system as above without a filter to get blocked that vents the vapour to air however ;

i. It STINKS and covers your engine bay in a very fine mist of oil
ii. MOT tester will not be happy

I think a decent closed system with a nice wire wool filter would be fine, 19mm in and out to stop any pressure problems from blocked pipes / filters. Combine that with an EGR reducing plate and that's the best system.

On my system as above, I originally had problems with it causing oil build up in my breather filter at the end of the system. I simply filled the oil can more tightly, I used 3 stainless scourers inside a pair of tights, I have now had this running for around 500 miles and there is no oil on my end breather filter at all, its being trapped inside the tank.

Pictures to demonstate what I mean...

Old system with not so tightly packed can...

P1000715.jpg


some oil was caught

P1000719.jpg


but buggered up my breather filter at the end so it wasnt catching enough

P1000714.jpg


More tightly packed

P1000723.jpg


Job done.

DSCF1605.jpg
 

UncleFester

Grumpier by the day!
Apr 30, 2006
4,764
1
Milton Keynes
www.facebook.com
I'd be interested to see what the breather filter looks like every few hundred miles, I had mine a similar distance away from the return and it was almost useless after 100 hard miles ..... the problem ( as you've also found) is ensuring it's only dealing with vapour and not oil mist.

That said after 52k miles I had a look in my EGR and it wasn't clean but it was certainly far from caked up - just a thin oily residue around it and nothing else.
 

ChrisGTL

'Awesome' LCR225
Nov 17, 2007
2,459
2
Huddersfield
I've done nearly 200 miles on my CCV mod (identical system to Ultra_Joel88).

My filter looks brand new still, I've got see-through pipe on mine so I can see how much vapour/oil is going through the system...and its alot!

Still no oil mark on the catch can oil level inidcator, but there must be something going in there.
 
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