Well I read the stories on here.. and chose to ignore them
.. well mostly..
Take them to a garage if not technically pretty competant .. if you are happy with repairing their damage (I am not.. so DIY and do it right once...
)
In another 3 years time there will be articles on replacing alloy AP 4 pot caliper with more reliable single pot Golf calipers (heavier but far more robust from salt) .. these AP calipers are a time bomb of corrosion.. the bridge bolts are stainless but the bridge tube is zinc plated; add winter salt and it is a pure battery of corrosion with aluminium, stainless and carbon steel!! Funny.. AP keep advertising for a Brake Engineer for car applications .. they need to learn a bit more first ... and I'm not applying!
So .. for a nice whole afternoon job!
Fitting Cupra front brake pad change (AP calipers)
Note .. you will not remove these by just chapping out the pins .. the pins will not move with a 3.5mm punch (you cannot get enough energy into such a small area to overcome the corrosion that will occur) .. so you have to cut them out.. the Seat know this as they recommend fitting kits with new pads.
1. remove caps and slacken wheel nuts
2. Jack up car and place on axle stands
3. Lubricate bridge bolt and pins where they pass through the caliper body.
4. Grind off lip on disc on outside (THIS IS OPTIONAL but helps job and improves brakes)
4.1. DANGEREOUS .. do this at your own RISK
4.2. Start car and place in 1st gear; this will gently rotate discs (if you only have one wheel jacked up then it is not so safe as the differential will not limit the force generated)
4.3. Ensure you have NO hanging clothes etc…
4.4. Using the caliper body as a rest and placing the grinder so the disk is parrallel to the disk then grind off the lip. Not a deep heavy force but a reasonable one.
4.5. When you just see the pad area by the lip start to change colour you have gone far enough; there will be very light grind marking but they will go in time .. think of it as DIY grooves!
4.6. Do this at outer lip and on the inner lip by the wheel bolts
4.7. Do the very outer surface too
4.8. It will be very dusty/dirty so consider breathing protection on top of face/ears. Mostly brown rust but some brake pad dust and all bad for you no doubt.
4.9. When finished the pads can now easily slip out of caliper instead of your having to batter them past this lip
4.10. This will also improve brakes as there is less dragging from this area
5. Remove Bridge bolts;
5.1. if bridge tube turns then try and hold it with mole grips; note the capscrew bolts are stainless so they are soft.
5.2. If they fail to come undone then the bridge tube which is zinc plated steel has probably corroded itself to the bolts.. use grinder to remove a long section of the tube (tip the steel will turn blue just as you grind through), rotate tube/bolt and grind another section from tube (note you will not be able to remove last 2mm beside caliper body). Then use screwdriver/chisel to split tube and as it collaspes inwards it will split on the uncut section and come away from the bolt shaft. It will damage the aluminium of the caliper body but then this will already show signs of corrosion so the damage is there already!
5.3. You can get a good hold of the bolt head with molegrips and combine this with the allen key to improve the torque to remove bolt.
6. Lever pads back off disc so that the pistons retract to protect the bolts
6.1. You can normally get a screwdriver in at the top/bottom of the pad by angling it up by 45 degrees and then levering.. but do not use excessive force or you will bend the disc.
7. Lever pads back onto contacting disc
8. Lever pistons back into caliper housing; you should have to do this a few times as each time you lever one in another will come out.. use a couple of screwdrivers. Watch out for damaging rubber boots and ensuring you do not “****”/twist piston in their bore so lever both sides. If pistons are twisted you can use brake pedal to pump them back out. You can also use this to “work” pistons that are siezed/stiff.
9. Using good quality hacksaw blade cut the pins using the back of the pad’s steel plate as a guide; you can do this from the middle of the pad up/downwards but make sure you do not damage the piston boots. This will leave a stump of the pin so that you can work it but it will allow you to remove the pads on the pins as one lump
10. Remove the pads/pins as one part; Work each side, you can get a lever in at the top at the back to lever and a direct hit at the front. Watch the caliper body as they are delicate. If you have removed the lip from the disk this will be far easier.
11. Remove the remains of the pins
11.1. Outer pins need 3.5-4mm punch and drive into where the pads where.
11.2. Inner pins; drive them 0.5mm out to where the pads where to get them moving and then reverse and drive in towards engine/gearbox with 6mm punch followed by 3.5-4mm punch. This is awkward as you cannot get a straight hit on the pin and you may want to dress the pin edge up once you have got it moving so that it does not damage the aluminium body.
12. PADS ARE OUT!!
13. Clean up the inner edge of the disk that you cannot get a grinder with.. use small chisel and work slowly over 3-4mm section at time in gap at top where caliper bolts to upright; you can only get 12mm section per rotation so this takes time... Occasionally you will need to push some of the rust lip in from above if it does not break off.
14. Clean up stainless slides where pads rest inside caliper. Look for corrosion which may push these plates up.
15. Test fit pads; the stainless slides are designed to be sprung slightly to stop the pads chattering/clunking. I prefer my pads gently free sliding so I grind the top surface of the pad steel backing plate until the pads move with just a little drag; this should not be more than 1mm max and if it is then you need to consider removing and cleaning under these stainless slide plates which means removing the caliper..
16. Clean all the holes, inspect bridge bolt threads, clean up bridge tubes if they are acceptable; bolts should be a easy sliding fit with no drag. I had to clean up threads on bolts and body with M8 tap and die on passenger side (this is always the worse side as it runs in the gutter)
17. Paint if required (caliper and disk ground areas)
18. Lubricate sliding areas and holes/threads ensuring nothing goes on disk (use petrol/paint thinners if it does). Put some on back of pads where pistons rest.
19. Put pads back in; note Arrow on back points down so the taper edge is at top of pad
20. Put bottom pin in by hand, just before driving home with 6mm punch give a little lubrication to head
21. Fit the plate with arrow pointing downwards by hooking into bottom pin
22. Fit top pin, pushing plate back, lubricating before driving home
23. Fit Bridge tube with lubrication
24. Fit Bridge bolt
25. Pump out pistons with brake pedal and ensure they grip and then release with no drag.
26. Best practice is then to bleed brakes to remove contaminated brake fluid from the hose… a cup from each caliper is enough
26.1. Use 14mm six sided socket to slacken bleed nipples
26.2. 10 pumps per bleed nipple
26.3. Wash with water to remove brake fluid
26.4. Dry
26.5. Lubricate bleed nipple and then replace rubber cap.
27. Break in pads.. either 3 fast stops or be nice to them for 100 miles.. racers stomp on them.. car dealers tell you to be nice.
28. With the looser ground pads you will find slow check braking more violent but then you will also find yourself rolling far more easily in queues etc which has to help mpg!
Taking the calipers out and using a vice could be easier.. then you can get a decent hammer blow at it! But then you have brake fluid everywhere and vice marks on the caliper...
Lubricant in my case was Dinotrol 3120 cavity wax to stop corrosion and black moly grease on the threads.
You need pads
Dealer £90 #6LL 698 151
Ferodo Racing DS2500s http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pag...s2500frontpads
GSF ;£60 Mintex Extremes #TTMDB2207X. same as the Clio V6 = http://www.atozmotorspares.co.uk/product_info.php/cPath/1037_28494_28633_28634/products_id/218568
You need fitting kit #6LL698295 (£60 from dealer and is only 4 pins and 2 plates!!!) This has AP reference CP6607-32 inside it but Seat’s part number for AP.
You should get hold of spare bridge bolts =M8x100 capscrews in A2 Stainless steel (4 off) (you need to trim a 100mm capscrew to 92mm if you do not get OEM ones). Threads start at 72mm but you only need them from 78mm from under the head.
You should get hold of spare bridge tubes = 8.1mm ID, 12mm OD and 64.5mm long (I used Stainless hydraulic pipe squared off in a lathe to exactly length). Max OD is 12.3mm.
Consider replacing bleed nipples and rubber caps.
You could modify these calipers to use straight pins and little R clips.. you would need to drill a hole in the pin between the pad and body on the inside.. or there is room on the outside but be careful as the alloys are very close to the caliper.
Notes from previous postings;
>>>>>>>>
disc wise...... size is 312x25x34.5
AP Racing part number is CP6607-31 but you won't find any mention of them on the AP site as they only supply direct to Seat production. Discs are same size as Audi TT, S3, etc so you can get them from most factors for about £30 a disc.
I know that CP 6600 D55 is actually the wrong caliper number, the seat sport ones are based on this design but are really D59. - (no such caliper number) Because Seat sport help develop them, they are 59mm deep instead of a 55mm like the feroddo ones, and they have a unique shape. In the end the guy said "It's only 4mm difference but it's part of the braking system so just go and buy the correct part from the dealer".
<<<<<<<<
.. I have photos of it all... but cannot get to photobucket while awaiting traffic jam clearance .. but if enough want it I will post them..
.. well mostly..Take them to a garage if not technically pretty competant .. if you are happy with repairing their damage (I am not.. so DIY and do it right once...
)In another 3 years time there will be articles on replacing alloy AP 4 pot caliper with more reliable single pot Golf calipers (heavier but far more robust from salt) .. these AP calipers are a time bomb of corrosion.. the bridge bolts are stainless but the bridge tube is zinc plated; add winter salt and it is a pure battery of corrosion with aluminium, stainless and carbon steel!! Funny.. AP keep advertising for a Brake Engineer for car applications .. they need to learn a bit more first ... and I'm not applying!
So .. for a nice whole afternoon job!
Fitting Cupra front brake pad change (AP calipers)
Note .. you will not remove these by just chapping out the pins .. the pins will not move with a 3.5mm punch (you cannot get enough energy into such a small area to overcome the corrosion that will occur) .. so you have to cut them out.. the Seat know this as they recommend fitting kits with new pads.
1. remove caps and slacken wheel nuts
2. Jack up car and place on axle stands
3. Lubricate bridge bolt and pins where they pass through the caliper body.
4. Grind off lip on disc on outside (THIS IS OPTIONAL but helps job and improves brakes)
4.1. DANGEREOUS .. do this at your own RISK
4.2. Start car and place in 1st gear; this will gently rotate discs (if you only have one wheel jacked up then it is not so safe as the differential will not limit the force generated)
4.3. Ensure you have NO hanging clothes etc…
4.4. Using the caliper body as a rest and placing the grinder so the disk is parrallel to the disk then grind off the lip. Not a deep heavy force but a reasonable one.
4.5. When you just see the pad area by the lip start to change colour you have gone far enough; there will be very light grind marking but they will go in time .. think of it as DIY grooves!
4.6. Do this at outer lip and on the inner lip by the wheel bolts
4.7. Do the very outer surface too
4.8. It will be very dusty/dirty so consider breathing protection on top of face/ears. Mostly brown rust but some brake pad dust and all bad for you no doubt.
4.9. When finished the pads can now easily slip out of caliper instead of your having to batter them past this lip
4.10. This will also improve brakes as there is less dragging from this area
5. Remove Bridge bolts;
5.1. if bridge tube turns then try and hold it with mole grips; note the capscrew bolts are stainless so they are soft.
5.2. If they fail to come undone then the bridge tube which is zinc plated steel has probably corroded itself to the bolts.. use grinder to remove a long section of the tube (tip the steel will turn blue just as you grind through), rotate tube/bolt and grind another section from tube (note you will not be able to remove last 2mm beside caliper body). Then use screwdriver/chisel to split tube and as it collaspes inwards it will split on the uncut section and come away from the bolt shaft. It will damage the aluminium of the caliper body but then this will already show signs of corrosion so the damage is there already!
5.3. You can get a good hold of the bolt head with molegrips and combine this with the allen key to improve the torque to remove bolt.
6. Lever pads back off disc so that the pistons retract to protect the bolts
6.1. You can normally get a screwdriver in at the top/bottom of the pad by angling it up by 45 degrees and then levering.. but do not use excessive force or you will bend the disc.
7. Lever pads back onto contacting disc
8. Lever pistons back into caliper housing; you should have to do this a few times as each time you lever one in another will come out.. use a couple of screwdrivers. Watch out for damaging rubber boots and ensuring you do not “****”/twist piston in their bore so lever both sides. If pistons are twisted you can use brake pedal to pump them back out. You can also use this to “work” pistons that are siezed/stiff.
9. Using good quality hacksaw blade cut the pins using the back of the pad’s steel plate as a guide; you can do this from the middle of the pad up/downwards but make sure you do not damage the piston boots. This will leave a stump of the pin so that you can work it but it will allow you to remove the pads on the pins as one lump
10. Remove the pads/pins as one part; Work each side, you can get a lever in at the top at the back to lever and a direct hit at the front. Watch the caliper body as they are delicate. If you have removed the lip from the disk this will be far easier.
11. Remove the remains of the pins
11.1. Outer pins need 3.5-4mm punch and drive into where the pads where.
11.2. Inner pins; drive them 0.5mm out to where the pads where to get them moving and then reverse and drive in towards engine/gearbox with 6mm punch followed by 3.5-4mm punch. This is awkward as you cannot get a straight hit on the pin and you may want to dress the pin edge up once you have got it moving so that it does not damage the aluminium body.
12. PADS ARE OUT!!
13. Clean up the inner edge of the disk that you cannot get a grinder with.. use small chisel and work slowly over 3-4mm section at time in gap at top where caliper bolts to upright; you can only get 12mm section per rotation so this takes time... Occasionally you will need to push some of the rust lip in from above if it does not break off.
14. Clean up stainless slides where pads rest inside caliper. Look for corrosion which may push these plates up.
15. Test fit pads; the stainless slides are designed to be sprung slightly to stop the pads chattering/clunking. I prefer my pads gently free sliding so I grind the top surface of the pad steel backing plate until the pads move with just a little drag; this should not be more than 1mm max and if it is then you need to consider removing and cleaning under these stainless slide plates which means removing the caliper..
16. Clean all the holes, inspect bridge bolt threads, clean up bridge tubes if they are acceptable; bolts should be a easy sliding fit with no drag. I had to clean up threads on bolts and body with M8 tap and die on passenger side (this is always the worse side as it runs in the gutter)
17. Paint if required (caliper and disk ground areas)
18. Lubricate sliding areas and holes/threads ensuring nothing goes on disk (use petrol/paint thinners if it does). Put some on back of pads where pistons rest.
19. Put pads back in; note Arrow on back points down so the taper edge is at top of pad
20. Put bottom pin in by hand, just before driving home with 6mm punch give a little lubrication to head
21. Fit the plate with arrow pointing downwards by hooking into bottom pin
22. Fit top pin, pushing plate back, lubricating before driving home
23. Fit Bridge tube with lubrication
24. Fit Bridge bolt
25. Pump out pistons with brake pedal and ensure they grip and then release with no drag.
26. Best practice is then to bleed brakes to remove contaminated brake fluid from the hose… a cup from each caliper is enough
26.1. Use 14mm six sided socket to slacken bleed nipples
26.2. 10 pumps per bleed nipple
26.3. Wash with water to remove brake fluid
26.4. Dry
26.5. Lubricate bleed nipple and then replace rubber cap.
27. Break in pads.. either 3 fast stops or be nice to them for 100 miles.. racers stomp on them.. car dealers tell you to be nice.
28. With the looser ground pads you will find slow check braking more violent but then you will also find yourself rolling far more easily in queues etc which has to help mpg!
Taking the calipers out and using a vice could be easier.. then you can get a decent hammer blow at it! But then you have brake fluid everywhere and vice marks on the caliper...
Lubricant in my case was Dinotrol 3120 cavity wax to stop corrosion and black moly grease on the threads.
You need pads
Dealer £90 #6LL 698 151
Ferodo Racing DS2500s http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pag...s2500frontpads
GSF ;£60 Mintex Extremes #TTMDB2207X. same as the Clio V6 = http://www.atozmotorspares.co.uk/product_info.php/cPath/1037_28494_28633_28634/products_id/218568
You need fitting kit #6LL698295 (£60 from dealer and is only 4 pins and 2 plates!!!) This has AP reference CP6607-32 inside it but Seat’s part number for AP.
You should get hold of spare bridge bolts =M8x100 capscrews in A2 Stainless steel (4 off) (you need to trim a 100mm capscrew to 92mm if you do not get OEM ones). Threads start at 72mm but you only need them from 78mm from under the head.
You should get hold of spare bridge tubes = 8.1mm ID, 12mm OD and 64.5mm long (I used Stainless hydraulic pipe squared off in a lathe to exactly length). Max OD is 12.3mm.
Consider replacing bleed nipples and rubber caps.
You could modify these calipers to use straight pins and little R clips.. you would need to drill a hole in the pin between the pad and body on the inside.. or there is room on the outside but be careful as the alloys are very close to the caliper.
Notes from previous postings;
>>>>>>>>
disc wise...... size is 312x25x34.5
AP Racing part number is CP6607-31 but you won't find any mention of them on the AP site as they only supply direct to Seat production. Discs are same size as Audi TT, S3, etc so you can get them from most factors for about £30 a disc.
I know that CP 6600 D55 is actually the wrong caliper number, the seat sport ones are based on this design but are really D59. - (no such caliper number) Because Seat sport help develop them, they are 59mm deep instead of a 55mm like the feroddo ones, and they have a unique shape. In the end the guy said "It's only 4mm difference but it's part of the braking system so just go and buy the correct part from the dealer".
<<<<<<<<
.. I have photos of it all... but cannot get to photobucket while awaiting traffic jam clearance .. but if enough want it I will post them..
![[B)]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/shades.gif "Cool [B)]")
