Yeah i think im gonna do this and enjoy some deeper notes and then i wont have to worry about driving in a deep puddle in these wet and windy days to come.
Cheers mate for the info.
-
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Yeah i think im gonna do this and enjoy some deeper notes and then i wont have to worry about driving in a deep puddle in these wet and windy days to come.
Cheers mate for the info.
wez1981
Guest
No worries mate, just good to hear other peoples opinions on the same change and its not just me being daft
When i get my laptop sorted ill be doing some readings with and without the pipe anyway just to see what the difference is. Im looking forward to a new charge pipe and tip hose to see how much it changes
wez1981
Guest
Courtesy of Sixspeed80's album, this is what i have..
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u91/speedsix80/LCR/4bc011ac.jpg?t=1196853205
but with the black pipe on the end of the filter completely removed leaving it open ended.
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u91/speedsix80/LCR/4bc011ac.jpg?t=1196853205
but with the black pipe on the end of the filter completely removed leaving it open ended.
No worries mate, just good to hear other peoples opinions on the same change and its not just me being daft
When i get my laptop sorted ill be doing some readings with and without the pipe anyway just to see what the difference is. Im looking forward to a new charge pipe and tip hose to see how much it changes
So is those pictures your engine bay?
Have you not already got the TIP?
wez1981
Guest
Their not my engine bay, i was using another members picture to show wha air filter i have and how it kind of looks (and to try and get point across about how its setup).
I dont have the TIP - well i have, but its not fitted yet
m also polished charge pipe with turbo silencer gone is due any day now.First picture you can see where the foil pipe is, this split - so i removed it completely.
Here you can see all the standard intake parts still intact.
I've since added a new better pipe but its about 4-5 inches away from the end of the air filter.
Last edited by a moderator:
cool! i will get some pictures of the dynatwist and the air feed up on here later tonight when i finish work.
Why is your pipe so far away from the filter??
I have mine only an inch away zip tied so it wont move. The Dynatwist is bigger looks like.
Why is your pipe so far away from the filter??
I have mine only an inch away zip tied so it wont move. The Dynatwist is bigger looks like.
wez1981
Guest
i thought 4-5 inches was enough clearence to give me the loudness i wanted, it might be able to go closer, not really tried it but will give it a go!
wez1981
Guest
This is how its turned out in the end. Happy with that.
Yeah that looks fine in all honesty!
mine is now the same just slightly closer to the filter.
All good!
Oh and Stuart that is the first time i have seen the TDi's engine bay looks great too!
Have you tried it with the feed disconnected like Wez???
wez1981
Guest
I did actually have the same (ramair) filter on my Pug 306 Dturbo, and did the same removing the end feed pipe. Not much of a difference but it did sound a little deeper. Much more noticable on the LCR !
WEZ
Here is a picture of my Dynatwist you can see the air feed is very close to it.
I love the engine note im getting with the feed not connected and the dump valve sounds different too!
![[B)]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/shades.gif "Cool [B)]")
Here is a picture of my Dynatwist you can see the air feed is very close to it.
I love the engine note im getting with the feed not connected and the dump valve sounds different too!
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wez1981
Guest
Deleted member 7729
Guest
Standard airbox with a Green panel filter.
No heat soak, no bogging down, no OTT noise, better pickup through the revs
That sounds like what i want.... Don't want chav noises etc...
Today I took great pains into removing the "factory CAI" - that is, the trunk which brings air from the front to the airbox.
My reasons had been the following: factory intake is rather well designed, with the scoop behind the headlight sucking from a high-pressure area, neatly tucked in the space behind battery, and yet airflow at high rpm was not quite the best, acceleration at highway/motorway speeds was not brilliant, and despite my 1.3-1.5bar remap, the dyno (rolling road) test indicated a whopping 9-10hp difference between running with airbox and without it (keep in mind I've said without airbox, not filter). The most likely culprit had to be the absurdly small duct.
It took me a long time and plenty of scratches on my hands, but I've managed to remove it and leave the airbox in place.
I've fitted in the same place a flexible rubber hose, 105/110mm diameter, with hard plastic coil reinforcement inside. I have chosen it for it was smooth inside, no ribs or fins, and it was very elastic. Unlike a hose with metal reinforcement, the hard plastic allowed to squeeze it to pass through the small space behind fender and battery, and expand to its real size once inside, unharmed.
Kept the scoop behind headlight, cut the snout on which the original duct had fit. The snout is roughly triangular and it's barely 65x45mm!!
Cut a bit into the airbox to fit the hose, ended up with a large hole with rough edges. Made a gasket out of foam-insulation sheet and glued it around, it's very light and yet is has a bit of rigidity which allows the gasket to stay in place until the glue hardens.
The inside of the airbox was not smoothed yet. Panel filter is the factory type, and quite dirty (11000kms old).
The results had been quite amazing.
For the first test, slow driving around:
- rpm raise slightly quicker, but the difference is very small, had I not paid attention I couldn't tell;
- engine noise is slightly changed;
For the second test, motorway run up to 180km/h:
- turbo spools up slightly quicker;
- acceleration at high speeds and high rpms, 5000-6000, is much better;
- slow raise of rpms in the 4000-6000rpm range is gone for good;
- continuous driving in 4th, 5th, and 6th gear at high speed, which felt a bit restricted before, like "not breathing enough" now it's perfect. 100% perfect. From 130 to 140, 150, 160, 180 km/h and back, no flat spots, no problems. It takes off in 5th gear just like it did before in 3rd gear... amazing
- engine noise at high rpm has changed, no longer a screech but a deep rumble, like a small V8... music for my ears
All these without any sort of bucket-sized cone filters, EUR 300 induction kits, airbox drilling, smoothing, not even a sports panel filter. Just a no-good, ratty piece of rubber hose, which is available at the hardware store for the immense price of EUR 7.66 including Romanian VAT.
Right now I sip a well deserved shot of brandy and smile like crazy. Maybe nobody believes me, poke fun, or think I'm crazy. I just know it works
Regards,
~Nautilus
My reasons had been the following: factory intake is rather well designed, with the scoop behind the headlight sucking from a high-pressure area, neatly tucked in the space behind battery, and yet airflow at high rpm was not quite the best, acceleration at highway/motorway speeds was not brilliant, and despite my 1.3-1.5bar remap, the dyno (rolling road) test indicated a whopping 9-10hp difference between running with airbox and without it (keep in mind I've said without airbox, not filter). The most likely culprit had to be the absurdly small duct.
It took me a long time and plenty of scratches on my hands, but I've managed to remove it and leave the airbox in place.
I've fitted in the same place a flexible rubber hose, 105/110mm diameter, with hard plastic coil reinforcement inside. I have chosen it for it was smooth inside, no ribs or fins, and it was very elastic. Unlike a hose with metal reinforcement, the hard plastic allowed to squeeze it to pass through the small space behind fender and battery, and expand to its real size once inside, unharmed.
Kept the scoop behind headlight, cut the snout on which the original duct had fit. The snout is roughly triangular and it's barely 65x45mm!!
Cut a bit into the airbox to fit the hose, ended up with a large hole with rough edges. Made a gasket out of foam-insulation sheet and glued it around, it's very light and yet is has a bit of rigidity which allows the gasket to stay in place until the glue hardens.
The inside of the airbox was not smoothed yet. Panel filter is the factory type, and quite dirty (11000kms old).
The results had been quite amazing.
For the first test, slow driving around:
- rpm raise slightly quicker, but the difference is very small, had I not paid attention I couldn't tell;
- engine noise is slightly changed;
For the second test, motorway run up to 180km/h:
- turbo spools up slightly quicker;
- acceleration at high speeds and high rpms, 5000-6000, is much better;
- slow raise of rpms in the 4000-6000rpm range is gone for good;
- continuous driving in 4th, 5th, and 6th gear at high speed, which felt a bit restricted before, like "not breathing enough" now it's perfect. 100% perfect. From 130 to 140, 150, 160, 180 km/h and back, no flat spots, no problems. It takes off in 5th gear just like it did before in 3rd gear... amazing
- engine noise at high rpm has changed, no longer a screech but a deep rumble, like a small V8... music for my ears
All these without any sort of bucket-sized cone filters, EUR 300 induction kits, airbox drilling, smoothing, not even a sports panel filter. Just a no-good, ratty piece of rubber hose, which is available at the hardware store for the immense price of EUR 7.66 including Romanian VAT.
Right now I sip a well deserved shot of brandy and smile like crazy. Maybe nobody believes me, poke fun, or think I'm crazy. I just know it works
Regards,
~Nautilus
Heh cost me even less to drill holes in mine - it adds as much power as an open filter and sounds just as nice
caveo
Guest
PS: This is the size difference between the two ducts:
~Nautilus
i know i did the exact same thing last week, cheap n easy mod with good results. i used grinding stones in my drill to enlarge the hole into the box and to smooth it out.... black **** every where tho
Someone said 3 years ago: "There's not a lot of room to get much bigger than 80mm into the standard airbox, you mebbe get 100mm in."
It may sound weird, but my 105/110mm hose barely fills the space between airbox corner, battery and fender, and around battery there is even some free space (fender is bulged outwards)... if the shop had a similar 120mm hose I might have given it a try.
There is something to be able to stick your forearm from airbox through hose to scoop! (and I'm not a thin guy at all)
~Nautilus
It may sound weird, but my 105/110mm hose barely fills the space between airbox corner, battery and fender, and around battery there is even some free space (fender is bulged outwards)... if the shop had a similar 120mm hose I might have given it a try.
There is something to be able to stick your forearm from airbox through hose to scoop! (and I'm not a thin guy at all)
~Nautilus
Induction kits in my experience are a complete and total waste of money.
You get the same or better from smoothing the airbox, increasing the cold airtake size anything above 90mm is a waste as the engine side is 80mm so no point in in having anything above 90mm as a clod air intake because you can't compress the air in a smoothed box. Also drilling the airbox helps so you can suck air in a less restricted manner. In short doing that to the standard airbox will cost you about £50 including the grean panel filter and a few hours of elbow grease.
But if you want you can waste £150+ on a piece of over engineered junk that will gain you less and look like frankly nor sound any better.
One more thing you can if you wish make a vortex generator for the intake pipe and fit it just before the MAF it you are then give a direct airflow, will cost you £2 and you are know getting all and ever benefit of an £175 induction for all of £50. I hate to say it but induction kits are a rip off and those with open cones are getting even worse value for money.
If your going to spunk your cash on a kit get closed one the open ones are a waste of money.
You get the same or better from smoothing the airbox, increasing the cold airtake size anything above 90mm is a waste as the engine side is 80mm so no point in in having anything above 90mm as a clod air intake because you can't compress the air in a smoothed box. Also drilling the airbox helps so you can suck air in a less restricted manner. In short doing that to the standard airbox will cost you about £50 including the grean panel filter and a few hours of elbow grease.
But if you want you can waste £150+ on a piece of over engineered junk that will gain you less and look like frankly nor sound any better.
One more thing you can if you wish make a vortex generator for the intake pipe and fit it just before the MAF it you are then give a direct airflow, will cost you £2 and you are know getting all and ever benefit of an £175 induction for all of £50. I hate to say it but induction kits are a rip off and those with open cones are getting even worse value for money.
If your going to spunk your cash on a kit get closed one the open ones are a waste of money.
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