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Oil filter & oil renewal howto (inc pictures)

tcrichton

Guest
Well on behalf of my bro (shantybeater) here's the oil + filter change we did on his Cupra.

You'll need:

19mm spanner, jack, axel stands, new oil filter, new oil (around 4.5Litres 5W/40 fully synthetic is good, suggest buying one large bottle and a small one) container for oil, lots of cloths/kitchen roll and possibly an oil filter removal tool

The Cupra's sump plug washer wasn't compressible so doesn't necessarily need replacing, in our case the old one wouldn't come off the bolt so we now have a spare.

1. Firstly get the car up on a jack and preferably some axel stands.

You'll need to take off the side skirt cover to get to the mount point, this comes off by using a flat blade screwdriver (blunt one) or two in the two holes.
Pull the cover down until you can see the vertical clips then pull the cover out horizontally towards you.

1.Mount_Point.jpg


This car was so low to the ground we had to jack each side up and put logs under the front wheels in order to get the jack under the car and positioned below the subframe.

Here's it done (I use wood to project the car should it move):

2.On_stands.jpg


2. Now run the car until it's up to temp then turn her off, this'll make the oil less viscous and therefore run out easier, it'll also help to get any gunk out.

3. Get under the car and locate the sump plug, it faces the rear of the car and is located at the bottom of the oil sump.

4.Sump_plug.jpg


Find yourself a 19mm spanner, a socket set will end up full of oil and leak slowly wherever you leave it, also the oil's going to be hot so make sure you have a tool you can get out of the way quickly and use so your hand isn't in the line of the oil.

Dam cats!
3.Dam_cat.jpg


4. Take off the oil cap (this isn't necessary but will speed up the draining process)

5. Place a suitable container beneath the oil sump and remove the sump plug trying to keep your hand away from where the oil will pour/run down as you get close to the end of the plug.

5.Sump_plug2.jpg


6. Let all the oil drain from the car, when it slows you can get onto changing the filter.

6.Oil_running.jpg


7. Take a look at your new filter, most likely your old one will look the same, it is located at the front of the engine towards the bottom of the car and unfortunately is awkwardly behind an engine mount point.

Here's a photo from beneath:

11.Finished.jpg


As we couldn't get in from above (many mods in the way) we attacked from the bottom. In our case the oil filter was a real pain (probably not lubed up before fitting or tightened more than by hand)

It turns anti-clockwise (when looking at the bottom) as you'd expect and should yours be a pain you have two choices.

a) Get a oil filter removal tool from halfords/nearby
b) Force a screwdriver through the side of the filter and use it to get some leverage

We chose option a as b would've meant more mess and if we still couldn't get it off would've meant buying the tool anyway (and getting it covered in oil)

Once you've begun to loosen the filter you can do the rest by hand, from the top if possible, if not get under and make sure your head is not going to get covered in oil as it will leak:

7.Filter.jpg


8. Clean up the filter mounting point

8.Filter_point.jpg


9. Before putting the new filter on, lube the seal, I do this by rubbing the new filter on the old, but you could put your finger in the oil and run it around the seal

10.Lube_up.jpg


10. Do the new filter up with your hand as tight as you can, this is more than enough.

11. The oil should've finished draining by now so clean around the sump plug and refit

12. I put 3 Litres of new oil in first, left it to settle then kept topping up until it showed on the dipstick (took 4 litres).

13. I then ran the car for a few mins and checked there were no leaks.

14. Checked the oil level again and then dropped the car to the ground.

Finally I ran the car once more and checked the oil.

Hope this helps, its a pretty easy job and just takes some time, we did the sparks also so feel free to msg shantybeater or myself if you have any questions (Shantybeater is on hear more as he actually owns a cupra).

Tristan.
 

RichN

Collecting Rings
Jan 29, 2005
533
0
Oxford
www.Oxford7s.net
That's a great guide - cheers! Can it be copied to the Mk3 guides section? I might give this a go myself.

Back in the day when my car was 'serviced' by SEAT, they always used to charge (and rave on about) some engine flush - I assume the oil change stage would be the time to use this, and is it worth it? ...Every time, or just once a year?
 

tcrichton

Guest
Have put it in the Guide section too.

You can get some engine flush liquid to flush through any remaining oil but personally I don't think its worth it, may eat away at some of your seals.

Heating the engine up before popping the plug should be enough!
 

tcrichton

Guest
To get around the oil covered arm/hand business. When removing the oil filter just put a plastic bag over your hand and down your arm ;)

Will 0W 30 oil be ok? I was told by Halfords it will be ok so got some Castol Magnetex 0w 30

Next time... tho it was dam tight so needed the grip...

5W40 seems a good choice, wouldn't go for 30 myself.
 

tcrichton

Guest
Next time... tho it was dam tight so needed the grip...

5W40 seems a good choice, wouldn't go for 30 myself.

Having a dig around on the forum.. looks like 0W30 is fine for VAG engines over 180bhp, we'll do that at the next oil change bro.

Volkswagen Group Oil Specifications and their Applications

VW 500.00
This is an “old” oil specification and is applicable to engines built before model year 2000 (up to August 1999)
Viscosity ratings: SAE 5w-40, 10w-40 or 20w-40
This oil can be used in all petrol and some diesel engines, apart from those referred to under other specifications.

VW 501.01
This is another “old” oil specification with exactly the same application as
VW 500.00.
Viscosity ratings: SAE 10w-40, 15w-40 or 20w-40

VW 502.00
This oil can only be used in petrol engines and is recommended for those which are subject to arduous conditions. It must not be used for any engines with variable service intervals or any which are referred to under other specifications.
Viscosity ratings: SAE 0w-40, 5w-40 or 10w-40

VW 503.00
This is a relatively new oil specification for petrol engines with variable service intervals. It includes the AUDI S4, but not the RS4, or the TT and S3 with outputs of more than 180bhp.
Viscosity rating: SAE 0w-30

VW 503.01
A new oil specification specifically for the RS4, and the TT and S3 with outputs of more than 180bhp, Passat W8 and Phaeton W12.
Viscosity rating: 0w-30

VW 505.00
For all diesel engines prior to model year 2000 (August 1999)
Viscosity rating: 0w-40, 5w-40 or 10w-40

VW 505.01
For all diesel engines with unit injectors (Pumpe-Duse or PD) without variable service intervals.
Viscosity rating: SAE 5w-40

VW 506.00
For all diesel engines except those with unit injectors, with variable service intervals.
Viscosity rating: SAE 0w-30

VW 506.01
For all diesel engines, including those with unit injectors, with variable service intervals.
Viscosity rating: SAE 0w-30
 

Fl@pper

Back older greyer and less oilier but always hope
Jun 19, 2001
12,368
25
Gloucester
I used a plastic bag around my arm and hand with a cloth rapped around the filter for grip. No oil covered arm ;)

tried that and ended up with it in me armpit instead :censored:

reccomend fitting a new sump bung each time too for what they cost compared to a stripped thread
 

tcrichton

Guest
Likewise :-/

5W40 isn't going to cause any problems tho, most likely that's what its been running on up until now.

0w30 next time tho :)
 
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