I see your point. But I could get into the car now and it would drive fine. The fault is intermittant. Surely if there was a leak or whatever in the piping the car would drive with no boost all the time?
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I see your point. But I could get into the car now and it would drive fine. The fault is intermittant. Surely if there was a leak or whatever in the piping the car would drive with no boost all the time?
Boosting issues have nothing to do with the engine coolant sensor so its not that at fault.
Your fault code indicates a boost leak
Your symptoms indicate your going into limp mode.
You are definitely going into limp mode for some reason or another. The fact an engine off, engine start again rectifies it, definitely tells you that its going into limp.
So why is it going into limp?
What fuel are you using? Does your wife fill it up or do you? You will go into limp if your filling it up with normal 95 ron UL. For full boosting on remapped you need to be feeding it 97/99. It will happily run on 95 by retarding, but to hold and keep max boost without ecu putting you into limp it needs SUL97 at very least. I tested this a couple of weeks back by putting in 95ron, my ecu wouldn't allow me to rev at max boost past 4500rpm, as soon as i reached this, ecu pulled like a mofo and then i couldn't boost past 10psi for the remainder 4500-7000rpm. Switch off, boost back, upto 4500rpm, it was fine. After that, ecu retarding and putting it in limp.
If you are running it on 97/99 then like others have suggested, dumpvalve and boostleaks should be your next check.
Standard DV on a remapped car is a no-no. They're prone to failure especially with increased boost levels. You need this changing anyway
What map is it?
Boost leaks can be detected via logging actual and requested boost with vagcom. If you know how to use it, also log the CF values and maf values.
Warranty wont sort boosting issues with a remapped car. has nothing to do with SEAT, its you who has raised their 10psi standard level to 21psi remapped.
Your fault code indicates a boost leak
Your symptoms indicate your going into limp mode.
You are definitely going into limp mode for some reason or another. The fact an engine off, engine start again rectifies it, definitely tells you that its going into limp.
So why is it going into limp?
What fuel are you using? Does your wife fill it up or do you? You will go into limp if your filling it up with normal 95 ron UL. For full boosting on remapped you need to be feeding it 97/99. It will happily run on 95 by retarding, but to hold and keep max boost without ecu putting you into limp it needs SUL97 at very least. I tested this a couple of weeks back by putting in 95ron, my ecu wouldn't allow me to rev at max boost past 4500rpm, as soon as i reached this, ecu pulled like a mofo and then i couldn't boost past 10psi for the remainder 4500-7000rpm. Switch off, boost back, upto 4500rpm, it was fine. After that, ecu retarding and putting it in limp.
If you are running it on 97/99 then like others have suggested, dumpvalve and boostleaks should be your next check.
Standard DV on a remapped car is a no-no. They're prone to failure especially with increased boost levels. You need this changing anyway
What map is it?
Boost leaks can be detected via logging actual and requested boost with vagcom. If you know how to use it, also log the CF values and maf values.
Warranty wont sort boosting issues with a remapped car. has nothing to do with SEAT, its you who has raised their 10psi standard level to 21psi remapped.
Also why are you running 4bar FPR?
That'll be screwing things if its not a revo stage 2 map, which i doubt it is given your mods.
edited...
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1629867#post1629867
No wonder you're not running right mate.
You are using normal unleaded fuel on a remapped car
You are using a 4bar FPR instead of a 3bar. This is screwing your fuelling up big time.
You are running a standard dumpvalve
By the sounds of it, you are running an ''unknown'' map.
No wonder you're having problems matey
Replace the 4bar, try putting in the 108.9p stuff, change the DV and get a decent ''well known'' map
That'll be screwing things if its not a revo stage 2 map, which i doubt it is given your mods.
edited...
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1629867#post1629867
No wonder you're not running right mate.
You are using normal unleaded fuel on a remapped car
You are using a 4bar FPR instead of a 3bar. This is screwing your fuelling up big time.
You are running a standard dumpvalve
By the sounds of it, you are running an ''unknown'' map.
No wonder you're having problems matey
Replace the 4bar, try putting in the 108.9p stuff, change the DV and get a decent ''well known'' map
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'cos i've had the same problems in the past, car was standard apart from a re-map (i think ... was quite a while back).
If that sensor goes then the ECU thinks the enigine is hotter or cooler than it really is, so adjusts the fueling to match - end result is it'll run rich or lean.
The ECU will after a while pickup from the Labda Probe that the A/F mix in the exhaust gasses is not right and stick the car into a soft-limp mode with very little boost.
But - turn the engine off & back on again and it's fine ... for a while ......
Dave
'cos i've had the same problems in the past, car was standard apart from a re-map (i think ... was quite a while back).
If that sensor goes then the ECU thinks the enigine is hotter or cooler than it really is, so adjusts the fueling to match - end result is it'll run rich or lean.
The ECU will after a while pickup from the Labda Probe that the A/F mix in the exhaust gasses is not right and stick the car into a soft-limp mode with very little boost.
But - turn the engine off & back on again and it's fine ... for a while ......
Dave
My car wont go into limp mode as you drive along. When car is started its either in limp mode or its not.
'cos i've had the same problems in the past, car was standard apart from a re-map (i think ... was quite a while back).
If that sensor goes then the ECU thinks the enigine is hotter or cooler than it really is, so adjusts the fueling to match - end result is it'll run rich or lean.
The ECU will after a while pickup from the Labda Probe that the A/F mix in the exhaust gasses is not right and stick the car into a soft-limp mode with very little boost.
But - turn the engine off & back on again and it's fine ... for a while ......
Dave
Coolant sensor failure will bring up a permanent engine warning light and the fault code generated alerts you to coolant sensor failure.
He's made no mention of the engine warning light or fault code relating to coolant sensor so i doubt its this. Additionally, i had the coolant sensor fault for about 6months and it doesn't make any difference to the performance of the car. Its a very very common fault and has been talked about many times on here. It never once put my car into limp mode.
Fuelling is calculated by signals from the lambda and MAF. If you have a dodgy coolant sensor, it doesn't neccessarly mean the ecu is going to add more fuel.
Like i said in my last response..
You are using 95 ron cheap fuel in a remapped car
you're running a standard DV
You have an unknown map
You are overfuelling by running a 4bar FPR.
Its definitely down to 1 of these or a mixture of them all. Guaranteed! Seeing as i tested 95 ron fuel a couple of weeks ago and couldn't rev past 4500 without going into limp, 1st port of call is to stick the good stuff in.
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Been running the good stuff for last 2-3 fills. I dont think its the map as its only recently that the car has started this. The car was mapped with the 4 bar fpr taken into account. So it might be the DV. Saying that the car has behaved itself the last few days. Until it plays up again I wont touch it.
But thanks for you input. You are probably right about some of them.
But thanks for you input. You are probably right about some of them.
Try the boost pipe straight off the turbo.. My car was doin the same thing, found a big rip in it, apparantly there common for going on lcr`s. Forge do a high temp replacement for £45.
Also, check the brake vacuum pipes next to the metal charge pipe on the left side of the engine, one of mine was touching the charge pipe and melted a hole in it, causing the diagnostic to find a pressure drop.
Also, check the brake vacuum pipes next to the metal charge pipe on the left side of the engine, one of mine was touching the charge pipe and melted a hole in it, causing the diagnostic to find a pressure drop.
Ok latest update. Car was in limp mode this morning with my wife on her way to work. It was ok on the way home but she did say the boost gauge wasnt working properly. So I took the car a drive tonight and it wasnt driving right.
I got a new (original part) DV from a mate and fitted it to my car tonight. Everything seems to be prefect again. Boost gauge working as it should etc. So it looks like my problem was my DV after all. I will have to get an uprated DV as Mitchy had already said due to the remap.
The boost gauge was reading funny with the old (damaged?) DV.
I got a new (original part) DV from a mate and fitted it to my car tonight. Everything seems to be prefect again. Boost gauge working as it should etc. So it looks like my problem was my DV after all. I will have to get an uprated DV as Mitchy had already said due to the remap.
The boost gauge was reading funny with the old (damaged?) DV.
LATEST UPDATE:
Problem still exists. Intermittantly having no boost. It doesnt happen as you drive along. Either when you start the car it has boost or it doesnt. If you drive off and car has no boost (max 0.3 bar)- stop and turn off car - when I restart I will always have boost and car is fine.
Ruled out the following so far:
fuel
dump valve
If I was having boost leak would I not have no boost all the time?
Any other ideas?
Think of putting standard map back in to see if it still does it.
Problem still exists. Intermittantly having no boost. It doesnt happen as you drive along. Either when you start the car it has boost or it doesnt. If you drive off and car has no boost (max 0.3 bar)- stop and turn off car - when I restart I will always have boost and car is fine.
Ruled out the following so far:
fuel
dump valve
If I was having boost leak would I not have no boost all the time?
Any other ideas?
Think of putting standard map back in to see if it still does it.
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Can you do a full acceleration in 3rd/4th gear all the way to the red line without going into limp mode? Just once? Or does it boost well to begin with and then die off all the time?
You really need to check with vagcom or a boost gauge too see what your turbo is doing.
I'll not go into the ins and outs but if you have a deviation between actual vs requested boost high enough you'll go into limp mode. 1 reason of not meeting the requested boost would be through a boost leak. You can check this via vagcom if you kno what your doing.
Your fault code also suggests this.
Also i wouldnt rule out the DV 100% yet as like you said you need to uprate it.
Also it may be worth a try to disconnect battery, and reset the throttle body if you haven't already done so.
Disconnect the battery, leave for 5 minutes, reconnect, turn the key around 1 click (dont start engine) leave for 2 minutes until TB has reset and then start engine.
Disconnect the battery, leave for 5 minutes, reconnect, turn the key around 1 click (dont start engine) leave for 2 minutes until TB has reset and then start engine.
Cheers - you seem to know what you are talking about and I appreciate that. So Forge 007P was ordered on Friday so should be here by Monday/Tuesday all being well.
Next step would be it fit Forge and go from there before trying anything else?
My mate reset the TB the other night when he connected his diagonstic gear to car. He used it to reset it and not what you suggest. I assume it would achieve the same result?
What it should be doing is boosting to around 21-22 psi on spool up at around 2800-3000rpm. 21-22psi is about 1.5 bar if you have a bar reading gauge.
It should then hold this quite well (20psi) until around 5000rpm where it will begin to drop a little, probably down to 17/18 until 6000rpm and then down to 15psi (1 bar) at 6500 rpm
This is normal behaviour of a remapped K04 turbo.
If its doing this, then the map and turbo are behaving as expected to be and you can rule out significant boost leaks like loose pipes/holes in pipes etc.
It should then hold this quite well (20psi) until around 5000rpm where it will begin to drop a little, probably down to 17/18 until 6000rpm and then down to 15psi (1 bar) at 6500 rpm
This is normal behaviour of a remapped K04 turbo.
If its doing this, then the map and turbo are behaving as expected to be and you can rule out significant boost leaks like loose pipes/holes in pipes etc.
Ok thanks I will try that without getting caught be police or crashing due to looking at gauge. lol
