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Brake pads - guide

Seat til I die

Lap Record Holder
Oct 14, 2007
107
0
I too would like to request some tips on this subject.

ebay has a good selection but it is hard to know which will give the greatest value for money...

mintex £53 full set
omp £63 full set
ebc redstuff £179 full set
ebc yellowstuff £167 full set
brembo £113 front only

also how long would you normally get away with driving with the brakepad replacement light on?? i am told 1000-2000 miles under normal conditions (whatever they are, lol) and I am well past 1000 now so I am a bit worried about scarring the discs...
 

Big_daddy

Going going gone.....
Oct 20, 2006
3,930
0
Brummy
you shouldn't drive them with the light on.....

straight to wherever fits them asap

nah theres no light on what so ever, do my nature of driving, they tend to wear quicker. :drive2: The start to sqeek after i give it abit of stick or stopping very quicky from high speeds

Think it time to change, plus look abit low from what i see
 

Seat til I die

Lap Record Holder
Oct 14, 2007
107
0
the light is only an indication they will need changing, but yes i agree not a good idea, though the pads are still good for some time after the light first begins to come on
 

NickT

Active Member
Mar 29, 2004
429
0
LB, Beds
That guide looks about right, it's pretty much the same as the description in the Golf & Bora Haynes manual I used for mine. The Important note at the beginning is relevant regarding bleeding the fluid when pushing the pistons back in, it's to prevent any crap entering the ABS solenoid valves apparently.

If you're not replacing the discs (rotors in that guide, wtf?) then you don't need to remove the pad carrier bracket (2 x 17mm hex bolts) which is good as this guide has omitted to mention that they are thread locked in and should really be replaced if removed (Seat only parts).
 

Big_daddy

Going going gone.....
Oct 20, 2006
3,930
0
Brummy
That guide looks about right, it's pretty much the same as the description in the Golf & Bora Haynes manual I used for mine. The Important note at the beginning is relevant regarding bleeding the fluid when pushing the pistons back in, it's to prevent any crap entering the ABS solenoid valves apparently.

If you're not replacing the discs (rotors in that guide, wtf?) then you don't need to remove the pad carrier bracket (2 x 17mm hex bolts) which is good as this guide has omitted to mention that they are thread locked in and should really be replaced if removed (Seat only parts).

What bleeding? :confused: Shall i just remove the brake fluid cap and force the piston back, when refiting the calliper.
 

NickT

Active Member
Mar 29, 2004
429
0
LB, Beds
It's mentioned in that guide you found in bold under Important right at the beginning.

I was just gonna do what you said about just loosening the reservoir cap but then i read this in the Haynes:

"To avoid any dirt entering the ABS solenoid valves, connect a pipe to the bleed nipple and, as the piston is pushed back, open the nipple and allow the displaced fluid to flow through the pipe into a suitable container."
 

satilaboy

Full Member
Jan 13, 2006
375
0
I'm having new pads fitted today or tomorrow at a mates garage, but he does not have vag-com. will i need this to reset fault codes etc or will the wear sensor light automatically go off again?
 

NickT

Active Member
Mar 29, 2004
429
0
LB, Beds
Think it automatically goes off, although mine never came on, prefer to rely on visual inspection as the pad wear sensors are a bit hit and miss from what I've heard and read on here, some people even bypass them out of the system.
 

Seat til I die

Lap Record Holder
Oct 14, 2007
107
0
so normally the old saying goes, 'you get what you pay for' but are brembo pads really worth quadruple the amount of a company like mintex or omp??
or is that just a silly mark-up because they are fitted as standard at the seat factory?
 

edmong

GHE Tuning
Aug 15, 2007
567
0
Plymouth, Devon
:)
I too would like to request some tips on this subject.

ebay has a good selection but it is hard to know which will give the greatest value for money...

mintex £53 full set
omp £63 full set
ebc redstuff £179 full set
ebc yellowstuff £167 full set
brembo £113 front only

also how long would you normally get away with driving with the brakepad replacement light on?? i am told 1000-2000 miles under normal conditions (whatever they are, lol) and I am well past 1000 now so I am a bit worried about scarring the discs...

I bought the OMP's from ebay and I can't feel any difference from the original pads. In my opinion these are good value for money.

Have to replace the discs soon so will be doing a search to se what are the best.
 

Big_daddy

Going going gone.....
Oct 20, 2006
3,930
0
Brummy
Yeh i saw that later on, but was abit confused, as cant realy tell what part which thats coming off. Should zoom in abit more but a good guide. ;)

thinking of doin the front disk as well now. but thinking of getting the whole thing done by garage since i dont want to muck it up. (like i did with the clutch pedal :doh:).
 

WeeJase

pert
Jun 2, 2001
8,595
0
it's really not that hard mate.once you have done it once it's a walk in the park.take your time and always check check and check again.
 

Big_daddy

Going going gone.....
Oct 20, 2006
3,930
0
Brummy
Just fitted my mates turbo in Starlet GT, so thaught take a chance. with fitting new brakes
Decided to go all out. Rear - standad disk and pads. Front - upgraded - drilled/foved disk and pads.

Quick question before i begin maxing my card.
I dont know what thickness the disc need to be :confused:
Are the front and rear the same thickness?
I have a Leon 1.8T sports.
 

Seat til I die

Lap Record Holder
Oct 14, 2007
107
0
i am torn between ferodo ds allround or ferodo ds front with ferodo premier rear.
i know i can get the rear premiers for under 20 quid, but how much should i expect to pay for ds front, and ds rear?? cheers.
 
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