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remap 170tdi leon

aceman

Full Member
May 6, 2002
1,078
0
West Yorkshire
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flywheel power figure how do i find this out
and who did yours
allways thought it was originally under powered before remap
not much dif from the 150 fr [old model] in my opinion


Your RR operator should be able to calculate this from the run down losses when your car is on the rollers. Alot of RR now just give you a whp plot as the losses calculated on rundown can be a bit subjective hence the term "Dyno Lottery"

Awsome Gti is where mine was RR'd and the map is from Forge.
 

Birdy

Active Member
Nov 30, 2006
135
0
Manchester (astley)
I have phoned RICA twice and asked about problems with the DPF and both times they claim that this remap will not cause any issues, is this the map to go for then.
 

Jibberingloon

Guest
What is the DPF??

And what happens to it after remap?

Sorrryyyy feeeling Nooobbiisisssshh
 

BanziBarn

FR TDI & Type-R
Jun 5, 2003
358
0
Greater London
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Its the soot filter on the 170TDI engines. Other mappers have said that it can't cope with more power and it over heats with potential of fire (I think!)....

TBH, the mapper says it's not an issue but maybe that's becuase they've been ragging the car - the more you rag it, the better the DPF is at burning off the soot (so I understand).

People have posted on here that even with normal power the DPF warning sometimes comes on if they do lots of short journeys meaning its getting blocked - So mapped it has to be worse surely? I remain a little sceptical.

On the subject of power, was the rolling road not able to give the new flywheel power? At the begining of the thread the comment was that the standard power was donw on standard but that was becuase it was wheel power being measured wasn't it? Seat quote Flywheel power?
 

DavysFR

Guest
Hi, redrobo150

In the past i have had many cars rr'd that ive owned. Its said that the difference between the flywheel and wheel hp of a car is around 10-15% losses from the flywheel to the wheel hp. This is due to losses through the transmission of the car and friction, inertia etc.

Your car seems to have gotten a good result there, that means your car is 176hp at the wheels now. Standard it was 160hp at the wheels, this would mean that the standard flywheel hp was approximately 175-180hp!

Your new flywheel hp will be approximately, 190-195 plus all that extra torque.

Also, from posts i have seen on here in the past from Mitrashark, he is based in Portugal, he also has a 170 FR TDI. He had his FR remapped and the DPF did not give any problems until he had covered a few miles with the car remapped. Just be sure to keep an eye on it mate.

Enjoy! [B)]
 
Mar 26, 2007
713
0
Norn Iron
How does the DPF work? Surely if its a filter sort of mechanism, and is taking the soot out of the gasses then it will eventually need replaced?
 

Carnivor

Full Member
Jul 7, 2006
244
0
In my LeonFR 2.0 TDI
VW/Audi confirm using Octel's iron-based fuel-borne catalyst for diesel particulate filter regeneration - FBC - Around The World Of Diesel - Brief Article
Diesel Fuel News, Sept 29, 2003


VW/Audi Confirm Using Octel's Iron-Based Fuel-Borne Catalyst (FBC) For Disel Particulate Filter Regeneration: It's Octel's first original equipment maker (OEM) application for an iron-based FBC, but this version for VW/Audi isn't Octel's iron-strontium combination FBC used in retrofit applications (see Diesel Fuel News 9/2/03, p6). Also, VW/Audi chose to use its own dosing technology and treatment rate (not disclosed), rather than leaving those decisions to Octel. VW "Passat" and Audi "A4" cars will use the Octel FBC with DPFs starting this fall, with a five-liter dosing tank good for 120,000 kilometers between refills and ash cleaning of the DPF. Larger VW and Audi cars will use catalyzed DPFs rather than additives. However, VW says its ultimate goal is to eliminate FBCs and switch to "passive" DPFs in all cars.

found from here

http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0CYH/is_18_7/ai_108880554

couple of years old but it makes sence that VW developed they're own
 

redrobo150

Newbie
Jul 24, 2006
137
0
ilson
Hi, redrobo150

In the past i have had many cars rr'd that ive owned. Its said that the difference between the flywheel and wheel hp of a car is around 10-15% losses from the flywheel to the wheel hp. This is due to losses through the transmission of the car and friction, inertia etc.

Your car seems to have gotten a good result there, that means your car is 176hp at the wheels now. Standard it was 160hp at the wheels, this would mean that the standard flywheel hp was approximately 175-180hp!

Your new flywheel hp will be approximately, 190-195 plus all that extra torque.

Also, from posts i have seen on here in the past from Mitrashark, he is based in Portugal, he also has a 170 FR TDI. He had his FR remapped and the DPF did not give any problems until he had covered a few miles with the car remapped. Just be sure to keep an eye on it mate.

Enjoy! [B)]

cheers for the info cheered me up a bit
i dont do much town driving only fast motorway but when i did some local work around town i did notice the dpf symbol light come on tho ,was told if using for stopping and starting this will happen
no such problems since remap[touch wood]
and another thing the exhaust sounds throaty when booting it[awsome]

im taking it for the 10k service next week so i let you know if the sus it out [remapped]

indi garage 100all in inc vat better than rip off dealers
thanx
 

chippenhamwilts

Active Member
Mar 31, 2007
88
0
generally all manufacturers give an at the flywheel reading for power output. For example a car with the same engine e.g the TT with the 180 bhp is quoted as the same as other 2 wheel drive models with the same engine and tune, but if both were tested on a dyno they would different readings at the wheels. Flywheel and wheel readings will differ and sometimes quite considerably. If you had 160 at the wheels before hand, I would say as a rule of thumb you could expect to have had at least 175-180 at the flywheel. Had the same issue with a bike I tuned (book figure was 135 and came in at 122 at the wheel, after tuning was 178 at the wheel which was actually 195 at the crank tested)
 

redrobo150

Newbie
Jul 24, 2006
137
0
ilson
generally all manufacturers give an at the flywheel reading for power output. For example a car with the same engine e.g the TT with the 180 bhp is quoted as the same as other 2 wheel drive models with the same engine and tune, but if both were tested on a dyno they would different readings at the wheels. Flywheel and wheel readings will differ and sometimes quite considerably. If you had 160 at the wheels before hand, I would say as a rule of thumb you could expect to have had at least 175-180 at the flywheel. Had the same issue with a bike I tuned (book figure was 135 and came in at 122 at the wheel, after tuning was 178 at the wheel which was actually 195 at the crank tested)

hi
so how would this work out then....would this be in the region 195bhp at the fly wheel given it was originally 160bhp after remap
and have you experiance any problems with the dpf system
 

chippenhamwilts

Active Member
Mar 31, 2007
88
0
if the reading of 176bhp after you re-map was definitly at the wheels and not the flywheel, then you could expect to have at least 190-200 at the flywheel now. Power between flywheel and wheels is LOST in the transmission through gears, drive shafts bearings etc, all these components absorb some of that power when taking up slack, torsional twist etc. Thats why the readings differ.
Hence trying give an example with the TT (four wheel drive will absorb more power than two wheel drive giving less BHP at the wheels, the difference is, what power is lost in that example is gained in extra drive and reduced wheel spin with 4wd)

An at the wheels reading is the best to have anyway as its the true figure put down on the road. Manufacturers figures are generaly not. Some of the readings people post here are actually guestimated flywheel readings by the people running the dyno's (hence the lottery comments). Just know that 176bhp ripping the tyres to bits is a good result (as long as you afford to keep replacing those very same tyres that is)

One of the easiest ways to increase performance though is bigger wheels and lower profile tyres (as tested on tv, but cant remember name of program). You can gain over 0.3 sec on a qauter mile by changing wheels, and thats without touching anything else.

Other easy power gains are better filters, better oil, better exhuast (not necessarily bigger). Variable boost valves, cooled air (replacement intercooler, waterspray over intercooler which works like air con transfering heat from inlet air to evaporate the water ultimately cooling the charge air). These are all relativley simple to doand can gain anything up to and around 15-20% more power if not more (so you could be up to 210 at the wheel after some of these little mods.)
 
Last edited:

redrobo150

Newbie
Jul 24, 2006
137
0
ilson
if the reading of 176bhp after you re-map was definitly at the wheels and not the flywheel, then you could expect to have at least 190-200 at the flywheel now. Power between flywheel and wheels is LOST in the transmission through gears, drive shafts bearings etc, all these components absorb some of that power when taking up slack, torsional twist etc. Thats why the readings differ.
Hence trying give an example with the TT (four wheel drive will absorb more power than two wheel drive giving less BHP at the wheels, the difference is, what power is lost in that example is gained in extra drive and reduced wheel spin with 4wd)

An at the wheels reading is the best to have anyway as its the true figure put down on the road. Manufacturers figures are generaly not. Some of the readings people post here are actually guestimated flywheel readings by the people running the dyno's (hence the lottery comments). Just know that 176bhp ripping the tyres to bits is a good result (as long as you afford to keep replacing those very same tyres that is)

One of the easiest ways to increase performance though is bigger wheels and lower profile tyres (as tested on tv, but cant remember name of program). You can gain over 0.3 sec on a qauter mile by changing wheels, and thats without touching anything else.

Other easy power gains are better filters, better oil, better exhuast (not necessarily bigger). Variable boost valves, cooled air (replacement intercooler, waterspray over intercooler which works like air con transfering heat from inlet air to evaporate the water ultimately cooling the charge air). These are all relativley simple to doand can gain anything up to and around 15-20% more power if not more (so you could be up to 210 at the wheel after some of these little mods.)

thanks for info chap good read
 
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