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idling only... too wet to lie on the floor really.
Total hours spent are well under 20 at the moment though, so it's an as & when we both have days free.
Inlet will be interesting.... it can't do the kinked version that the instruction suggest anyway (bloody great diff housing in the way) so it's got to go under the gear shift linkages - so we're lifting that up a bit more, whacking some silicon hose straight from turbo outlet then 90deg straight up to the TIP/Maf housing.
would be so much easier with an 02J though!
Total hours spent are well under 20 at the moment though, so it's an as & when we both have days free.
Inlet will be interesting.... it can't do the kinked version that the instruction suggest anyway (bloody great diff housing in the way) so it's got to go under the gear shift linkages - so we're lifting that up a bit more, whacking some silicon hose straight from turbo outlet then 90deg straight up to the TIP/Maf housing.
would be so much easier with an 02J though!
What are you going to do with the outlet pipe on the compressor?
Are you sticking with the Forge FMIC for now?
Are you sticking with the Forge FMIC for now?
yah 02J is what i have, apart from a bit of grinding on the gear box and streching the gear linkage over the top of the linet it isnt to bad.
is the problem with the comp exit first sitting about 1 inch to the left of where the k03s used to sit. and where you had to clock the turbo the exit is not lining up with the hard pipe?
the hard water pipe is ok now, i have used m0rkpower to move it out of harms way it seems. and some cable rerouting as well seems to have shifted it out of the way too.
forge fmic at the moment yeah, the pipe route might be modified out of it being in the wrong place. or I mod ht outlet.
forge fmic at the moment yeah, the pipe route might be modified out of it being in the wrong place. or I mod ht outlet.
It's got to be a newly manufactured pipe on a flange hasn't it. Copies will be needed..... Ask Forge????
DPJ, the reason for that position of the comp exit is due to the fact they had to clock the turbo.
in theory it 'should' point up like stock does. mine did but i had to remove the bracket that held the speedo cable to the block andflatten the tranny to block gasket that sticks out.
mork can you nor clock it back so it faces up to the stock location and make more room to compensate? you can get to all the bolts from the top and bottom without removing the turbo.
in theory it 'should' point up like stock does. mine did but i had to remove the bracket that held the speedo cable to the block andflatten the tranny to block gasket that sticks out.
mork can you nor clock it back so it faces up to the stock location and make more room to compensate? you can get to all the bolts from the top and bottom without removing the turbo.
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Yes, I've fully followed this install.
I don't think it will clock back........ That's the only angle it will fit in at. AFAIK
I don't think it will clock back........ That's the only angle it will fit in at. AFAIK
yup, if we clock it back so it's upright it just fouls on something else... seems all 1.8T's aren't created equally
did you remove the speedo bracket and give the tranny gasket a wack with a hammer?
and are yuo def sure the mani to head bolt isnt touching or the bottom bit of the flange on the manifold? i read you kept yours and you didnt grind the corner.
near every install i have seen they have to grind the corner, inc the thickness, mine was fouling when i offered it up off the car to make sure, but i would not have noticed if it was mounted.
and are yuo def sure the mani to head bolt isnt touching or the bottom bit of the flange on the manifold? i read you kept yours and you didnt grind the corner.
near every install i have seen they have to grind the corner, inc the thickness, mine was fouling when i offered it up off the car to make sure, but i would not have noticed if it was mounted.
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so on this note mork what would need to be changed in the instructons?? seemin i may be doing it myself, just thought i'd be sneaky and let you make the mistakes for us!!
yeah, to be honest the turbo is fine where it is, and can't fit in any other way (regardless of clocking, grinding or otherwise)
yah sure, just make sure you have a spare car. else you will just get pissed off like i did as i was working againced time due to the fact i wanted to me mobile again.
i have a 100% clean install now, but at the time it was not fun at times.
make sure you offer the turbo up to the mani before you install it! last thing you need is having to remove it all to find that the comp housing is touching the mani, for a bit of prep that takes seconds, also remeber to make sure there is enough room for the thickness of the allen button. ill get some pics up later...
I'll wager he'll have the same problems as on jonah's car... as that has the same block & gearbox casing.
having a 2nd car is how come we've managed to take such a leisurely approach.
having a 2nd car is how come we've managed to take such a leisurely approach.
ok thanx for that got your pm, cheers
i'll be ok i think will take a week off work paid so that cant be to bad being paid to install a turbo lol
if you do put up pics could you show us some where as you said the areas we need to watch out for??
what was the main prob on johans car mork?
many thanks
i'll be ok i think will take a week off work paid so that cant be to bad being paid to install a turbo lol
if you do put up pics could you show us some where as you said the areas we need to watch out for??
what was the main prob on johans car mork?
many thanks
stretch79 here is some tips i made note of in a thread i posted here a few month back, these may help. (remeber i have a golf with 02j gearbox.
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Remove the standard turbo and lines then rest the standard turbo on the axel at the bottom, remove the 13 12mm nuts from the mani then remove the standard mani, then remove the turbo which is resting on the axel! This will save allot of hassle trying to squeeze it out!!
Attach the coolant return banjo and line to the eliminator turbo then throw the turbo round the back and rest it on the axel, bolt the mani on (remember to put the mani to turbo bolt closest to the engine in first!!!) so basically never try to remove or insert a turbo with a mani attached (I made this mistake once lol).
You need to grind down the bottom left corner of the mani and also grind down about 3mm of the thickness so the allen bolt screws closer in to avoid hitting the compressor.
Reuse the standard 12mm mani to head bolts for the 4 bottom ones and the 2 outer top ones. use the washers that came from the old mani with these 6 nuts, use the 6 copper nuts that came with the kit for the 6 top inner (DONT USE WASHERS WITH THESE 6) and use the allen head bolt (dont use a washer).
Use a 12mm offset ring spanner and a bent 12mm wrench to torque the top 6 inner mani to head bolts that ATP provide! Take your time and make sure you torque them in good!
Put the closest mani to turbo stud in first before bolting it to the head.
Bolt up all 6 middle top nuts to the maniifold before you even think about bolting any of the others on, it needs to be tilted so 3 of the bolts will screw on the threads, due to the ATP manifold branches being so thick.
When you put the manifold to the turbo bolt it through that bolt which is there until it has around 3mm thread left and then swing it round then bolt the other 2 in, here you may find they wont line up by around 1mm, I had to remove a metal bracket on the block that the compressor was hitting in to, also if you can try to bend the gasket between the engine and the tranny as this also gets in the way.. Every mm helps here!
Remember to bolt the coolant return banjo and line to the turbo before dropping it in, as it is hard to get to this with it mounted!
Before bolting the turbo to the mani remove the shifter cable brackets! and remove the shifter cables and put them aside (so they wont get in the way of the compressor).
When swinging the compressor around on the pivot of the first stud you may need to bend the coolant hard pipe up!! out of the way so it don’t foul.
When you come to install the 3 inch big bore you will see a unused eye that don’t let the casting sit flush, get an angle grinder in there and grind it down.
To make life ALLOT easier use a 10mm spline bit to remove the 6 spline bolts holding the axel to the tranny, this will give allot of play on it and make this whole install easier! Also it will make bolting up the oil return allot easier! It will relieve allot of stress so please do it!
The shifter bracket that sits on top of the casting in my case fouled the coolant hard line, I grinded as much as I could off the bracket and lifted the pipe up as hard as I could as I mounted it, the coolant pipe sits on top of it now.
To make life ALLOT easier remove your DP, or remove the midsection and let the dp sit back this will make life allot easier!
Make sure you use PTFE liquid on all line threads apart from banjo bolts! This is preferred over PTFE tape!
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ill get some pics of any useful nature later
==============================
Remove the standard turbo and lines then rest the standard turbo on the axel at the bottom, remove the 13 12mm nuts from the mani then remove the standard mani, then remove the turbo which is resting on the axel! This will save allot of hassle trying to squeeze it out!!
Attach the coolant return banjo and line to the eliminator turbo then throw the turbo round the back and rest it on the axel, bolt the mani on (remember to put the mani to turbo bolt closest to the engine in first!!!) so basically never try to remove or insert a turbo with a mani attached (I made this mistake once lol).
You need to grind down the bottom left corner of the mani and also grind down about 3mm of the thickness so the allen bolt screws closer in to avoid hitting the compressor.
Reuse the standard 12mm mani to head bolts for the 4 bottom ones and the 2 outer top ones. use the washers that came from the old mani with these 6 nuts, use the 6 copper nuts that came with the kit for the 6 top inner (DONT USE WASHERS WITH THESE 6) and use the allen head bolt (dont use a washer).
Use a 12mm offset ring spanner and a bent 12mm wrench to torque the top 6 inner mani to head bolts that ATP provide! Take your time and make sure you torque them in good!
Put the closest mani to turbo stud in first before bolting it to the head.
Bolt up all 6 middle top nuts to the maniifold before you even think about bolting any of the others on, it needs to be tilted so 3 of the bolts will screw on the threads, due to the ATP manifold branches being so thick.
When you put the manifold to the turbo bolt it through that bolt which is there until it has around 3mm thread left and then swing it round then bolt the other 2 in, here you may find they wont line up by around 1mm, I had to remove a metal bracket on the block that the compressor was hitting in to, also if you can try to bend the gasket between the engine and the tranny as this also gets in the way.. Every mm helps here!
Remember to bolt the coolant return banjo and line to the turbo before dropping it in, as it is hard to get to this with it mounted!
Before bolting the turbo to the mani remove the shifter cable brackets! and remove the shifter cables and put them aside (so they wont get in the way of the compressor).
When swinging the compressor around on the pivot of the first stud you may need to bend the coolant hard pipe up!! out of the way so it don’t foul.
When you come to install the 3 inch big bore you will see a unused eye that don’t let the casting sit flush, get an angle grinder in there and grind it down.
To make life ALLOT easier use a 10mm spline bit to remove the 6 spline bolts holding the axel to the tranny, this will give allot of play on it and make this whole install easier! Also it will make bolting up the oil return allot easier! It will relieve allot of stress so please do it!
The shifter bracket that sits on top of the casting in my case fouled the coolant hard line, I grinded as much as I could off the bracket and lifted the pipe up as hard as I could as I mounted it, the coolant pipe sits on top of it now.
To make life ALLOT easier remove your DP, or remove the midsection and let the dp sit back this will make life allot easier!
Make sure you use PTFE liquid on all line threads apart from banjo bolts! This is preferred over PTFE tape!
=============================
ill get some pics of any useful nature later
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