Oil change
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There should be a small indentation in the front and rear of the sill to indicate where the jacking points are - see screenshot below from the Owners manual (Nov 2014 edition). The two red arrows in figure 186 of the screenshot show the location of the jacking points and figure 187 shows where / how the jack should be positioned.
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Just maybe a late comment concerning sump drain plug differences:- some engine especially the EA888 will have a sump drain point that has been designed for use with the "use once" plastic drain plugs so you replace like with like and these plastic drain plugs have been designed to be close to fool proof, as you tighten them you feel the plug coming to end stop, so that means it has been tightened correctly. Next there is the steel and aluminium alloy sumps that get fitted at the factory with a steel drain plug that has a retained steel sealing washer, the official workshop manuals tend to make it clear that this version of drain plug gets binned at the first oil change and is replaced with a steel plug and a separate rolled aluminium alloy washer which is always better to replace at each oil change. Confusingly maybe, the advice is to replace the steel plug as well - I've tended to avoid that and just renew the rolled aluminium alloy sealing washer, nowadays not with the official VW Group one, but similar washers being sold on AliExpress, I'd be willing to accept that VW Group proper rolled aluminium alloy sealing washers might also come from China!
Alright, that's like universal jacking points as I also have the same on my other Citroen car. Thanks!
Got another question regarding the jacking procedure with a trolley jack and jack stands.
Where can I put the trolley jack in order to install a couple of jack stands at both forward points as fail safe? The jacking points don't have room to accommodate both the trolley jack and jack stand, I think. Is there any other jacking point so I can use the trolley jack independently?
Thanks again
If you just want to put stands under the front jacking points, I found that you can use the jack on the rear point to raise the front high enough to place an axle stand under the front points. Obviously you have to be careful when jacking the opposite side up, you will need to make sure that the jack wheels can roll so that the car body should not be forced to move.
A lot of the cars with an EA888 engine, will have a plastic sump and a "use once" plastic sump drain plug, magnetic sump plugs that I've ever noticed, are made to be used with a steel/alloy sump pan and while the magnetic sump plug gets reused, its sealing washer get replaced every time the drain plug has been removed.
Yes I have an aluminum sump plug and on mine I replace the sealing washer probably every 5 to 10 track days,
With regards to plastic sumps these guys certainly do one https://www.akstuning.co.uk/shop/ho...a888-gen-4-audi-srs-models-30-tdi-10-tsi.html they are not cheap but I personally prefer to go with safety to keep engine going as long a possible.
I am sure there are cheaper ones around, I also have an oil cooler fitted and as part of the filter process there is a secondary magnetic portion to catch more loose material.
With regards to plastic sumps these guys certainly do one https://www.akstuning.co.uk/shop/ho...a888-gen-4-audi-srs-models-30-tdi-10-tsi.html they are not cheap but I personally prefer to go with safety to keep engine going as long a possible.
I am sure there are cheaper ones around, I also have an oil cooler fitted and as part of the filter process there is a secondary magnetic portion to catch more loose material.
Aftermarket parts are not cheap but give you benefits, Mine for the Aluminium are £20-00 a piece and I have two of them and purchased 10 rings to make sure I did not run out of them.
I found this on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15472856...yUixmKF6nrYNMY1FHozMKu+yBsg=|tkp:BFBM9N_ag99j that looks like it does the jobe
I've not yet found that the previous plastic sump plug does get destroyed when you remove it, which is a bit alarming maybe if some workshops are just reusing them.
It's a shame that the aftermarket versions did not have the same "tool fitting" pattern on the end of them if only to limit the the amount of torque that some less than completely savvy home "mechanics" applied to them - over torqueing that would compromise the sump itself and that could end up causing a lot more damage than the supposed damaged being caused by circulating extremely small ferro magnetic particles.
Also, I'd have no need for the correct tool that I bought - and only, so far, used once.
I can see that they don't cause any of these issue for cars with the steel sump plate or the alloy sump though, but maybe needs a rethink for the plastic sumps.
It's a shame that the aftermarket versions did not have the same "tool fitting" pattern on the end of them if only to limit the the amount of torque that some less than completely savvy home "mechanics" applied to them - over torqueing that would compromise the sump itself and that could end up causing a lot more damage than the supposed damaged being caused by circulating extremely small ferro magnetic particles.
Also, I'd have no need for the correct tool that I bought - and only, so far, used once.
I can see that they don't cause any of these issue for cars with the steel sump plate or the alloy sump though, but maybe needs a rethink for the plastic sumps.
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