Going to build a race 1m

[Manic172]

Just a little bit of fiddling. So I thought I would put the rods together. I got 20mm wrist pins riffle drilled. Supplied by PRE

and ACL race bearings

The rods are lovely and and well made.

again as every thing... clean clean clean. Then tiny bit of engine oils like the bearings in to position. Making sure the oil way lines uo for the riffle drilling so the small end is lubricated

the end caps are matched to each rod and orientation so done mix them up

Just to finish off I used ARP2000 bolts to hold caps on

All done... might get round to fitting pistons today and then checking the oil clearance on the crank ... but might have to go shopping ......

 

[Manic172]

Some thing I was looking for was an uprated style dog bone mount.... and looky what I found on ebay.

034 motorsport mount. Very small Bush one end and then rose jointed the other. Saves wasting power to twist the engine. It the goes to the wheels.. not sure how much these normally are. I can't see ant marks or dents ... and it's shiney...

 

[Manic172]

Forgot to put up some pics from last week end. Started to put it together from being painted.

 

[Manic172]

Picked up this AGU engine cheap yesterday..

yes it is a wheel barrow.. I am to old to be carrying engines about now.. only need the head from it. The one I had was a bit monkey and not nice looking. So gonna get on with stripping this..
Does any one need any bits

 

[300bhpdaily]

Wow not seen this thread in ages but what a transformation the car looks so good proper race car glad you painted it black too look wicked

 

[Manic172]

Was messing about the other day, just lined up the new front seal housing. So see how the new shines bits looked. But touched the seal. But the rubber didn't move back. It just stayed with the dent in it

So knocked the seal out the housing.. ordered couple new ones. But of a better quality and higher quality. Using the size details

Ordered the new ones .

Slightly thicker. Seal rings on it also a tension spring that will help to stop any oil weeping out.

Will take it to work tomorrow and use the press to just slide it in..
Any.one ever had problems with these leaking befor. I was thinking of making these uprated versions and selling them if needed

 

[Manic172]

Started putting the rings on to the pistons

 

[Manic172]

Had to buy a cheap crank pully bolt. Then grind the flange off

next to the new arp bolt.

This is so when I put the pulley on to the crank I can have access to the holes

So when it's bolted to the crank I can drill in to the crank. And then push 2 tool steel pin threw the pulley in to the crank. . Basicly to help stop the pulley from shearing the keyway and spinning on the crank .... then that would be the end of every thing hahahah.
Every little helps

 

[Manic172]

Gonna do this over a few posts to make it easy. Had to grind the flats down a bit more to clear the pin holes

with some measuring and calculations I figured out how far to drill in to the crank, so the pins sit below the surface so get the drill bit and I marked it with some masking tape for the depth. Then drill

Then use what is called a reamer it's a drill type bit that makes the hole perfectly round and precisely the right size... but using a hand drill it's not ideal.

To help the fit I put the pins in the freezer. This will cam them shrink by a couple of thou, this will make them slide in easier

Then with a bit of pinloc like threadloc but designed for locking pins in position. I lined them up and tapped them in

Then using a small punch tapped them to the bottom of the hole

the pins have to be below the surface so that they don't sit against the crank bolt when fitted

Just wound it in finger tight to hold it all together when building it .

 

[Manic172]

Piston time. I forgot to do picturs. But I used a piston ring squeeze tool. Like sleave that squashes the rings in. With some lubrication I knocked the piston in to position. In the bore.

Then turn the engine over. And pulled the big end on to the crank.. I wrote a "how to" previously about how to measure the oil clearance on the shells. So won't go over that all again and bore you all.
So all check and OK. Checked each one in turn and then fitted the caps and torqued up.

 

[Manic172]

Next up was is oil pump. This is a pro-race engineering high flow pump. Cleaned all the surfaces. Fitted new chain and tensioner. And torqued the fixings

After the problems with the crank seal , so a new up rated one fitted. Again cleaned all the surfaces. Using lock tight flange seal lined up and fitted. I bought some stainless m7 bolts and washers for a lot of this build..

I went digging in the parts bin and found the LPS manule tensioner. And using the stainless m7 bolts.

Also fitted brand new idle pulley too.
When fitting the oil pump I fitted the oil drain housing too. Cleaned it in side and out and cleaned all the sealing surfaces

 

[Manic172]

On to the oil filter housing. Very simple.. clean the surfaces . Washed clean with brake cleaner. Fitted the new gasket . I couldn't get any new bolts. So with a wire wheel I cleaned the old ones. And then lined up and tighten down.

And then this is what it looks like and the end of today...

 

[Manic172]

Done a little more this evening. Had to take the engine off the stand to get to the rear main seal.

cleaned the area and again washed down with brake cleaner. Using locktite 515 flange sealant.
Checked the new seal for any damage etc all OK. Sprayed it with some grease to help the seal slide over the crank

Slide it over and bolt it down and the torque

Also spun in the ARP flywheel bolts just to keep them safe .

 

[Manic172]

Next up is a very very simple job... but as normal it's never simple and never easy.... it's only fitting a sump... just a sump... but. And as always there is a but.
So I turned the engine upside down on the stand and lowered the sump down. And it didn't sit all the way flush. So with some engineering paste I marked some of the areas I thought could be causing the issue.

Lowered down the sump. Wiggled it a bit and lifted it up.

And this is where the pump is rubbing on the baffle plate.
I have a standard pump laying about . So holding it next to the high flow pump you can see the difference

You can see the extra moulding on the high flow pump where the purple ink is.
So the tried them in to the sump and

the standard pump sits right down clears the baffle plates

the high flow pump sits proud of the sump. As the sump and pump have the same mounting surface it's holding the sump off the block... . Bit of modification and it will be on...