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Very rough idle

reFRence

Active Member
Jan 23, 2022
21
4
Hey guys, so it appears my car's condition is getting worse as I try to diagnose problems (first car and not a mechanic). This is going to be a long post because I want to make sure I give as much information as possible, if anyone can give advice it would be greatly appreciated.

Engine is 1.8T 20V AUQ (Cupra FR) with a decat and RAMAIR intake.

When I first got the car it was idling rough on first start, and this was gradually getting worse. I eventually replaced the MAF sensor under the advice of a mechanic as unplugging it while idle seemed to make the engine run smoothly. I got a BOSCH MAF unit (not just the sensor because I didn't know you could just change that yet), and I was happy with the car's performance.
After noticing an oil leak the mechanic suggested a rocker gasket change in an attempt to scan the problem from the top down. I agreed and he changed this for me and fitted some spark plugs I had bought too. At the same time I got the two front wheel bearings changed as they were really bad (making a lot of noise).

The car was alright after that but then I noticed the main problem I had all this time was how rich the car was running. Despite the fact that there's no cat, I wouldn't expect that much petrol smell. I get a strong smell from exhaust on and off for a few seconds consistently. There is also a petrol smell coming from the front of the car (I think, although it could be wafts from the exhaust). EVAP Canister is ticking but I've read that this is normal for VWs. I'm assuming since EVAP system is under vacuum it wouldn't be causing the rich condition?

The mechanic scanned the codes back when I changed the MAF and got:
- Brake Switch (F) Implausible Signal P0571
- Catalyst System Bank 1 Operation below threshold P0420
- Fuel Trim Bank 1 (Mult) System too Rich P1127 Intermittent
- Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve P1297 Intermittent

There was an additional "System too Lean Intermittent" code the first time it was scanned but it didn't come back after it was deleted.

So, wanting to do some investigation myself, partly out of wanting to solve it and partly to save money. I did some research and caught on to the idea that the Pressure Drop could be causing the Rich condition, as air that had been accounted for could be escaping. Not having a full picture I checked what I thought I could, starting with the tubes near the top of the engine; DV and N75, as well as the inlet to the throttle body. They looked fine as far as I could tell. I have a jack and some stands but I have not been brave enough as of yet to get under the car to check the pipes around the turbo and towards the intake.
I cleaned my air intake and that didn't really change things, although it was very dirty.

I then took off the DV itself and checked if it was holding air by pushing the valve up, placing my thumb on top and checking if there was suction when releasing the valve and my thumb. It seemed fine (again I don't really know what I'm looking for nor do I really have the tools or experience). I put the DV back on and started the car, it sounded rough as usual and the petrol smell was there, idling at ~792 and dipping slightly every few seconds. I thought I'd try disconnecting the MAF sensor to see if it made a difference and it didn't seem like it did until I reconnected it and the idle started dipping to ~500 every few seconds, in the same rhythm as before.

I left it for the night and this morning thought I'd try to see if the throttle body is dirty as this is a suggested cause of the problem and something quite simple to do.
I unscrewed the clamp and took off the large inlet pipe that connects to the throttle body, I looked inside and the plate had some carbon build up on the edges but it didn't seem that bad to me. I thought I'd wipe it with a kitchen towel to see if it was something that just came off or not, as I'd likely want to get some cleaner if it seemed like a problem. I wiped and some of it came off no problem, so I thought I might clean it at some other point but not a priority.
I reconnected the pipe and screwed the clamp back on as tightly as it was originally.
I then started the car and it sounded terrible... like it was stalling the whole time and the idle RPM was erratic. I didn't panic too much as I'd witnessed this before, I went over to the MAF sensor and unplugged it, thinking this might be causing the problem. Nothing changed however so I plugged it back in and turned off the car.. Not wanting to damage anything in the engine.

Now I'm writing this. I'm kind of at loss for what to do. My first instinct is to call a mechanic, but I also want to understand what's going on.
Firstly, I don't have the tools to do a TBA. I was thinking maybe when wiping I offset it somehow, so a clean and alignment wouldn't go amiss.
Secondly, I haven't checked my MAP sensor. I don't know where it is or how to check it. If someone could explain this to me I would appreciate it. I don't really know how the ECU knows that there is a pressure drop.. What sensors are involved in this and where are they located? I know the difference between the MAF and the MAP would throw something, but what about after the MAP?
Third, would a simple ECU reset via disconnecting the negative for a while help?
I've been using this diagram https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4035/4411150985_e2ba604b2a_o.gif to get a better understanding of how everything is working, but so far my understanding is very surface level, and looking at the actual car is a different beast altogether. (VW why so many tubes everywhere? 😢)

Does anyone have some suggestions before I call someone?

Sorry for the massive wall of text, but yeah, I need help on this one 😂.
 

mty12345

Active Member
Jun 17, 2011
3,907
538
bristol
Hi buddy.
You'll need to do a TBA by the sounds of it, it needs to be done after moving it. Sometimes it will allign itself if you turn the ignition on and let it sit without starting the car for a min, but more often than notyou need VCDS

As you've found out, these engines are pretty complicated and it could be a lot of things but my main suspect for the rich condition would probably be the N80 Evap valve. They can cause a rich condition and rough idle by allowing fuel vapour through when they shouldn't. The fact you can smell fuel would also make me think N80. There are videos on youtube about trouble shooting them, all the 1.8t engines use the same system


Here the link to ross-tech, which is the maker of VCDS and probably the best place to look up codes for vag cars http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/inde...1_-_Fuel_Trim;_Bank_1_(Mult):_System_too_Rich
 
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reFRence

Active Member
Jan 23, 2022
21
4
Hi buddy.
You'll need to do a TBA by the sounds of it, it needs to be done after moving it. Sometimes it will allign itself if you turn the ignition on and let it sit without starting the car for a min, but more often than notyou need VCDS

As you've found out, these engines are pretty complicated and it could be a lot of things but my main suspect for the rich condition would probably be the N80 Evap valve. They can cause a rich condition and rough idle by allowing fuel vapour through when they shouldn't. The fact you can smell fuel would also make me think N80. There are videos on youtube about trouble shooting them, all the 1.8t engines use the same system


Here the link to ross-tech, which is the maker of VCDS and probably the best place to look up codes for vag cars http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/inde...1_-_Fuel_Trim;_Bank_1_(Mult):_System_too_Rich
Wow, thank you for your reply I will do my research on the N80.

I was considering resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a bit, to see if the ECU can relearn the car's configuration. Do you think this would have any effect?

Thanks again :)
 

Alexis27

Active Member
Dec 20, 2009
2,141
476
Manchester
Yes, try disconnecting the battery. It can sometimes help with a few things!

I'd just try working your way through your fault list.

First job is to replace the brake switch under the pedals. When it goes it can create some crazy engine symptoms you wouldn't expect.

Number 2: - "Cat efficency below threshold is usually an exhaust leak by the post O2 sensor, and it's usually at the clamp that connects the down pipe to the rest of the exhaust. If there is even a small leak, then under deacceleration there is a pressure gradient that is created. And, then the air outside is then "sucked" back in to the exhaust system for a split second."

Faults 3 and 4 might just be a result of fault 2.

I'd also check all your PCV hoses. They're notorious for splitting. Here's a good guide for the AUQ engine:
 
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reFRence

Active Member
Jan 23, 2022
21
4
@Alexis27 thank you, I will change the brake switch - now to find a T25 torx somewhere in my house.

I'll also check the PCV hoses, thank you for linkng the guide I appreciate it.

As for number 2, as I mentioned in my post I have a decat, so I wouldn't expect the cat efficiency to be anywhere near threshold haha :D
I will check the clamp you mentioned just in case, but how will I know if there's a leak?
 

mty12345

Active Member
Jun 17, 2011
3,907
538
bristol
Wow, thank you for your reply I will do my research on the N80.

I was considering resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a bit, to see if the ECU can relearn the car's configuration. Do you think this would have any effect?

Thanks again :)
No worries mate. I hope that turns out to be the issue for you. :)

It's fine to reset the ECU. One thing to note though, is that when the battery's disconnected or you clear the fault codes, this also deletes the current fuel trims. It's not an issue, but it takes a bit of time for the engine to relearn the values, so expect it to idle slighty rough due to that anyway. If you let it idle and drive it for a few miles, then it should relearn the values pretty quickly.

I agree with Alexis about checking the pcv system. On the AUQ there is a black (almost certainly rusty) metal bracket that bolts to the inlet manifold at the front of the engine. If you remove the 2 bolts securing it, then although you still can't remove the bracket due to the fact it has wiring attached, you will be able to move it slightly to have a look at all the pipes underneath and behind it. Get a torch in there and also have a feel about for splits, broken pipes under there are super common and can also cause rough idle and fault codes.

My prime suspect would definitely be the N80, but if you have a PCV leak too, then that would definitely make the issue worse.
 

BigJase88

Jase
Apr 20, 2008
3,767
1,076
Check your brake lights work as that implausible signal from the brake switch may have rendered the brake lights inoperative
 

reFRence

Active Member
Jan 23, 2022
21
4
No worries mate. I hope that turns out to be the issue for you. :)

It's fine to reset the ECU. One thing to note though, is that when the battery's disconnected or you clear the fault codes, this also deletes the current fuel trims. It's not an issue, but it takes a bit of time for the engine to relearn the values, so expect it to idle slighty rough due to that anyway. If you let it idle and drive it for a few miles, then it should relearn the values pretty quickly.

I agree with Alexis about checking the pcv system. On the AUQ there is a black (almost certainly rusty) metal bracket that bolts to the inlet manifold at the front of the engine. If you remove the 2 bolts securing it, then although you still can't remove the bracket due to the fact it has wiring attached, you will be able to move it slightly to have a look at all the pipes underneath and behind it. Get a torch in there and also have a feel about for splits, broken pipes under there are super common and can also cause rough idle and fault codes.

My prime suspect would definitely be the N80, but if you have a PCV leak too, then that would definitely make the issue worse.
So I reset the ECU just now, CEL is gone, got two ABS lights still but mechanic mentioned damage to driver side ABS sensor when doing wheel bearings so I assume it's that.
Engine is actually running now. I let it idle for a few minutes then press the accelerator a bit and there seemed to be a lot of what I can only describe as "chatter" as I held RPMs at 2k. Is this normal after an ECU reset as it's relearning?

Something else I noticed during idle is that I can feel some air coming from between where the alternator sits and the throttle body. I thought it might be the belt motion moving the air but it doesn't feel like that anywhere else.
I've labelled a [picture I'll post below, my questions are;
Red arrow: Is that the N80 Valve?
Orange circle: What is this?
Green circle is where I can smell petrol and hear some kind of hissing, again not sure if it's the belt or something else making that noise.
Underneath the throttle body where the blue arrow points is where I can feel a consistent pushing of air.

Again thank you so much for your help and advice, I really really appreciate it, and sorry to be asking so many questions - for whatever reason I want to understand this engine and how it works. Anyway, here is the picture;

N80valveloc.jpg
 
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reFRence

Active Member
Jan 23, 2022
21
4
Check your brake lights work as that implausible signal from the brake switch may have rendered the brake lights inoperative
I had ordered a new switch with the MAF but hadn't changed it yet - I went to change it today and it turns out I'd bought the wrong one.
So I put the old one back in and now my brake lights definitely don't work, good times. Ordered the right one now but it's Topran not genuine.
 

BigJase88

Jase
Apr 20, 2008
3,767
1,076
Orange circle is where you would top up your air con refridgerant

Blue arrow thats the intercooler pipework meeting up to the throttle body. It should not be leaking any air. If leaking you are losing boost from turbo
 
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reFRence

Active Member
Jan 23, 2022
21
4
Orange circle is where you would top up your air con refridgerant

Blue arrow thats the intercooler pipework meeting up to the throttle body. It should not be leaking any air. If leaking you are losing boost from turbo
Ok I'll try to get a good look at the intercooler piping, thank you :)
 
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reFRence

Active Member
Jan 23, 2022
21
4
Yep Red arrow is the N80
Hey so I've been able to get the N80 off to take a look, and was going to blow through it was suggested to see if it was stuck open.
All the videos I've watched are for N80's that look something like this:
1643294717349.png

Mine however, assuming because it's literally stuck into the charcoal canister, looks like this:
1643294798981.png

WTF? 😂
I get that it's doing the same thing but now my diagnostics are a little uncertain. I tried blowing air through and I couldn't, I also tapped it out on the ground to see if any bits of charcoal came out, none. Am I right in assuming this valve is not part of my problem?

I also realised if I have a leak post turbo, wouldn't it make sense to have a petrol smell in the engine compartment because the N80 also sends fumes to the TIP? Just an idea.

About to check PCV piping now and if I'm feeling brave will get under the car and take a look at things there.
 
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