I want to test my maf out. Is it ok to unplug the sensor and go for a drive,. I have read about people doing this and the car been faster due to maf problems.
Thanks
Thanks
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Unpluging maf sensor
- Thread starter chillcupra
- Start date
Update...just unpluged it and went for a spin....no boost at all. Pluged back in and boost is back but no got a light on the dash!
that light will be the engine management light mate my maf was unplugged before the BT and had induction kit and i had no engine management light on! the engine management light can reset itself but if it doesnt in the next few drives then will need diagnostics kit to reset the fault code
Probably just registered a load of fault codes cos u drove it without maf fitted, do you know anyone with vag com?? There was also a thread on dielectric grease for maf's which was supposed to help with any issues relating to it! VVV
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=101577
Hope thats of sum help mate!
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=101577
Hope thats of sum help mate!
Unplugging the MAF sensor, as you discovered, will not immediately give a Check Engine light. When I did it a few weeks ago I drove for about 20 miles with the MAF unplugged, with no light. Then I stopped at a shop, and when I restarted the light came on straight away. So it has something to do with restarting the engine as well.
I have been discovering recently that the connector itself seems to be crap. Unplugging and replugging it will make the engine much more responsive, and it's even better if I clean the contacts using contact cleaner on a cotton bud. But the effect seems to wear off after a few days - and disturbing the connector again instantly restores power, smoothness and throttle response.
Personally, I no longer believe that there's any evidence the dielectric grease does any good - but unplugging and reconnecting the MAF definitely does work if you've got a dodgy connection. My strong suspicion is that the people who reported success with the dielectric grease were actually experiencing the benefits of disturbing the connector, rather than any effect of the grease itself.
In fact, the grease that I applied to my connector has gone a nasty yellow-ish brown colour.
I have been discovering recently that the connector itself seems to be crap. Unplugging and replugging it will make the engine much more responsive, and it's even better if I clean the contacts using contact cleaner on a cotton bud. But the effect seems to wear off after a few days - and disturbing the connector again instantly restores power, smoothness and throttle response.
Personally, I no longer believe that there's any evidence the dielectric grease does any good - but unplugging and reconnecting the MAF definitely does work if you've got a dodgy connection. My strong suspicion is that the people who reported success with the dielectric grease were actually experiencing the benefits of disturbing the connector, rather than any effect of the grease itself.
In fact, the grease that I applied to my connector has gone a nasty yellow-ish brown colour.
That was limp mode then....I whacked the vag on and cot the maf fault. Cleared that. All is well now.
Disconnecting the MAF doesn't trigger "limp mode", as such. What happens is that the ECU will notice that the MAF isn't working and will use a default value instead. This default value is very conservative (it maxes out at about 850, whereas a real MAF will max out at about 1250 on a PD130). The ECU thinks that the airflow into the engine is very small, so it greatly reduces the amount of fuel being injected - which is the real reason why the power is way down. The reduced fuelling guarantees that the engine won't smoke even with a broken MAF.
When I did it, it was as if the whole of the bottom half of the throttle did nothing at all. It was still capable of motorway speeds, though - 80 mph was easily possible if you're patient, and I'm not convinced you would manage that speed at all in true "limp mode".
When I did it, it was as if the whole of the bottom half of the throttle did nothing at all. It was still capable of motorway speeds, though - 80 mph was easily possible if you're patient, and I'm not convinced you would manage that speed at all in true "limp mode".
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