Two gauge questions

[kineticz]

Hey,
I'm currently (finally) finishing off the installation of my gauges. I have two questions I would appreciate a quick response for

1. Where's the ignition live feed in the fusebox?

2. How do I safely fit the oil temp sensor into an oil line?

Many thanks
Dan

 

[Ronin225]

Are you not using the spare port above filter for oil temp??

 

[kineticz]

I didn't even know there was one! I'll have a look!

Any idea on ignition feed in fusebox?

 

[kineticz]

Right think Ive found the blanking plate right on the top but its really difficult to access

 

[Ronin225]

It has a hexangonal slot, 4mm? allen key and its a pain to get to
there is probably guide on here somewhere

 

[kineticz]

It has a hexangonal slot, 4mm? allen key and its a pain to get to
there is probably guide on here somewhere

Yup that's the one, I couldnt get an allen key in there its so awkward I could see a brass washer underneath it but very difficult to undo.

 

[J0N]

As said before somewhere on here get a good quality correct size allen key, buy a new one if you have to. Make sure it's fully inserted into the blanking plate, (sounds like common sense but why do so many people manage to round these off?), get some weight behind it and it will 'crack', probably removing the skin from your fingers at the same time. Once it's loose it will screw out easily with your fingers. No need to drown it in WD40, it's doubtful that the threads will be siezed and this will only help the allen key to slip out. Before you do this, get a new copper washer for your sender as the one off the blanking plate can sometimes get damaged when you try to remove it.

 

[FishmanUK]

Jonnyjonjon gives good advice !
Make sure the hex key (5mm) is in properly. I thought I had rounded it off at the top because it slipped a little but then I tapped the key with some metal and heavy and got it in properly and the blanking plate came undone once I had a decent amount of leverage with a long hex key.

For my oil temp sender I used 4 copper washers total thickness of about two 10p pieces. The sender was too long for the hole and I didnt want to tighten it onto metal.

I initally installed using steel washers and it worked fine but then swapped over to copper washers which meant taking a load of stuff off again and more scraped hands to get them first and do it right first time !

Powerwise there is a +12v permanent and a switched +12v on the headlight switch wiring block just behind the fuse box. If you want a dimmed voltage feed then there is one on the dimmer switch block just next to it.

Red (thick wire left and top of the block) = +12v perm
White and black (thin right and bottom) = 12v switched. As does the thick red/black next to it. I am not sure which is best to use but I used the white and black one

Brown on the left (top I think) is the earth I used (could have used one from the headlight block) and the blue and white is the switched and dimmed voltage so if you wire up the lighting part of the gauges to that the brightness will change with the dimming switch.

Make sure you dont wire up the sender power to the dimmer switch though as it will mess up the reading.