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update:
the car is slipping its clutch due to cold fresh air and boost is lowered at the mo.....
a few small repairs were done , nothing major .... getting ready for winter>
boost set at 0.4 bar , getting ready to put winter tyres ..... etc....
next spring there will be a recon gearbox+good clutch+Apexi AVCR boost controler with all the kit - it even has gear selective boost and the like+ Innovate Wideband (megasquirt 2 has lambda control + mixture control - i.e. you target the mixture at givem loads and revs and it goes accordingly -----
So far fo now this is it
the car is slipping its clutch due to cold fresh air and boost is lowered at the mo.....
a few small repairs were done , nothing major .... getting ready for winter>
boost set at 0.4 bar , getting ready to put winter tyres ..... etc....
next spring there will be a recon gearbox+good clutch+Apexi AVCR boost controler with all the kit - it even has gear selective boost and the like+ Innovate Wideband (megasquirt 2 has lambda control + mixture control - i.e. you target the mixture at givem loads and revs and it goes accordingly -----
So far fo now this is it
update again
.....
As I had got to the point of being frustrated midterm while converting the car ( there is one period when cash dissapears faster then you earn it) i had neglected the fact that the air filter I had put on the car was for 150 HP NA car and was not supplying enough air to the engine. The reason I did this was that I had in my mind the NA running in of the car . Then the frustration came while instaling MS 2 and tuning the thing .... the late boost and the erratic idle came out of the fact that the car had really sucking air -or rather gasping for it. it got so bad to the point ( without any of me or the tuners realising it) that it sucked shut the rubber inlet hose at 5 000 rpm ! We thought it was the Walbro fuelpump playing its tricks ...
I am writing this bearing all the consequences of cutting corners while undertaking such a project. Thankfully the filter was replaced and the car is now a totally different beast - I have at present 0.7 bar at 3 000 rpm , hitting full boost at 3 500 rpm (0.9 bar) .... I had the biggest fun in my life for ... 24 hours when the clutch finally gave up and slipped like crazy .. it takes a few days of easy driving for it to start holding again, so I have lowered the boost to 0.5 bar
I am rather tired of playing with the boost . I want my 1 bar target . Soon
Doubting all possible setups for clutyches I have decided to use a SACHS Racing plate with SACH standard clutch . I am going to stay away from ceramic ones so far.
I need to rebuild the gearbox as well and might undertake this mid winter as there is no way I am going to wait for 4 months to do that.
.....
As I had got to the point of being frustrated midterm while converting the car ( there is one period when cash dissapears faster then you earn it) i had neglected the fact that the air filter I had put on the car was for 150 HP NA car and was not supplying enough air to the engine. The reason I did this was that I had in my mind the NA running in of the car . Then the frustration came while instaling MS 2 and tuning the thing .... the late boost and the erratic idle came out of the fact that the car had really sucking air -or rather gasping for it. it got so bad to the point ( without any of me or the tuners realising it) that it sucked shut the rubber inlet hose at 5 000 rpm ! We thought it was the Walbro fuelpump playing its tricks ...
I am writing this bearing all the consequences of cutting corners while undertaking such a project. Thankfully the filter was replaced and the car is now a totally different beast - I have at present 0.7 bar at 3 000 rpm , hitting full boost at 3 500 rpm (0.9 bar) .... I had the biggest fun in my life for ... 24 hours when the clutch finally gave up and slipped like crazy .. it takes a few days of easy driving for it to start holding again, so I have lowered the boost to 0.5 bar
I am rather tired of playing with the boost . I want my 1 bar target . Soon
Doubting all possible setups for clutyches I have decided to use a SACHS Racing plate with SACH standard clutch . I am going to stay away from ceramic ones so far.
I need to rebuild the gearbox as well and might undertake this mid winter as there is no way I am going to wait for 4 months to do that.
andyj
There's no F in Quality..
pic of Ivan's Cordy.....
Front:
Side:
G60 steel wheels:
Inside:
Engine:
Engine 2:
Turbo:
Whoosy Dump Valve:
Air Filter:
Front:
Side:
G60 steel wheels:
Inside:
Engine:
Engine 2:
Turbo:
Whoosy Dump Valve:
Air Filter:
thanks Andy !
so do you guys like my 10 year old 180 000 mile turbocharged little car
anyway this is its initial/trial build and as I achieve the reliability if the tranny+engine ( remember my target - 250 whp at 1.2 bar the most) I am going to respray the car and work on the interior. So far I am also going to clean and fix the engine bay and possibly reroute pipes and wiring etc but after i am convinced the setup would remain as it is.
so it is a test dummy for creating a reliable driveable setup for VAG 16v engines....
one thing I have not mentioned in this forum I guess is fuel consumption - it is around 14 l per 100km - but I see 200km/h every day, off boost consumtion should be around 10-11 l per 100km but who cares?
so do you guys like my 10 year old 180 000 mile turbocharged little car
anyway this is its initial/trial build and as I achieve the reliability if the tranny+engine ( remember my target - 250 whp at 1.2 bar the most) I am going to respray the car and work on the interior. So far I am also going to clean and fix the engine bay and possibly reroute pipes and wiring etc but after i am convinced the setup would remain as it is.
so it is a test dummy for creating a reliable driveable setup for VAG 16v engines....
one thing I have not mentioned in this forum I guess is fuel consumption - it is around 14 l per 100km - but I see 200km/h every day, off boost consumtion should be around 10-11 l per 100km but who cares?
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Small update -
After changing filter a full road remap was done to the car - it has a lot more torque in the 3-500 rpm range and part throttle response has greatly improved - light throttle on and off boost is incredible ( 0.2 bar and 0.2 vacuum for exaple) and now 1 bar is a handful. Average fuel cons now is 12 l 100km
I don't know what is with me and shipments of parts from anywhere in the world - after losing a turbo an year ago now it has taken a full 2 months for the sachs racing pressure plate to arrive and is still not here ? ! ?
After changing filter a full road remap was done to the car - it has a lot more torque in the 3-500 rpm range and part throttle response has greatly improved - light throttle on and off boost is incredible ( 0.2 bar and 0.2 vacuum for exaple) and now 1 bar is a handful. Average fuel cons now is 12 l 100km
I don't know what is with me and shipments of parts from anywhere in the world - after losing a turbo an year ago now it has taken a full 2 months for the sachs racing pressure plate to arrive and is still not here ? ! ?
andyj
There's no F in Quality..
Yeah
This is where I struck gold - these are 4 Pot Brembo's off a 7 series BMW - I got them for ridiculoius 60 pounds off a breakyard. I am planning to fit Audi S3 brake discs 312mm, with fabricated caliper carriers ( I am aware they have the 5x100 pattern on them but we bore them here NP). I am not sure of the Audi;s offset of the disc compared to the 280mm disc ? anyone any idea???
the other option is 305 mm of Ibiza Cupra R - 4x100 pattern but I should I treasure the 7mm difference in diameter???
and these will be very hard to find in Bulgaria - main dealer would charge a fortune!!!
As I am using steel wheels for the winter, I am to convert to 280 mm Girling system with the steelies, and big brake for the 16" wheels every summer
Another question is the size of the brakepump - it copes fine for the moment but any ideas what I shoud do for the 4 pots???
I am going in for the gearbox rebuild and change of pressureplate and clutch , also the Greddy electronic boost controler should be in - and we finally will try to increase boost to some pretty high levels - like 1.2 hold throughout the rev range![[B)]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/shades.gif "Cool [B)]")
This is where I struck gold - these are 4 Pot Brembo's off a 7 series BMW - I got them for ridiculoius 60 pounds off a breakyard. I am planning to fit Audi S3 brake discs 312mm, with fabricated caliper carriers ( I am aware they have the 5x100 pattern on them but we bore them here NP). I am not sure of the Audi;s offset of the disc compared to the 280mm disc ? anyone any idea???
the other option is 305 mm of Ibiza Cupra R - 4x100 pattern but I should I treasure the 7mm difference in diameter???
and these will be very hard to find in Bulgaria - main dealer would charge a fortune!!!As I am using steel wheels for the winter, I am to convert to 280 mm Girling system with the steelies, and big brake for the 16" wheels every summer
Another question is the size of the brakepump - it copes fine for the moment but any ideas what I shoud do for the 4 pots???
I am going in for the gearbox rebuild and change of pressureplate and clutch , also the Greddy electronic boost controler should be in - and we finally will try to increase boost to some pretty high levels - like 1.2 hold throughout the rev range
andyj
There's no F in Quality..
not sure if the Leon Cupra R brake servo is any bigger than the Ibiza one, but might be worth looking into.... it copes fine on mine with the 4-pots
312mm discs are going to be your best option, but I really doubt they will fit behind 16" wheels..... especially with the 4-pots fitted over them.
I know m0rk has fitted 312mm brakes from the Leon (with std 1-pot calliper) and it only just clears.... so the 4-pot calliper is going to be too big I reckon.
312mm discs are going to be your best option, but I really doubt they will fit behind 16" wheels..... especially with the 4-pots fitted over them.
I know m0rk has fitted 312mm brakes from the Leon (with std 1-pot calliper) and it only just clears.... so the 4-pot calliper is going to be too big I reckon.
Uptade again ( not that anyone cares anymore of you guys )
I put 3, 4, 5th gears off a diesel 020, bolted the diff up, recon the gearbox ( seals and bearings, clutch is in, and there is a small table with some caculations>>>
Before >>>> at 6500 rpm rev limit >>
Speed calculation
Final ratio: 3.67 RPM Speed [km/h]
Gear # Ratio Engage Upshift Engage Upshift
1 3.455 0 6500 0 56
2 1.944 3657 6500 56 100
3 1.370 4581 6500 100 142
4 1.032 4896 6500 142 188
5 0.850 5354 6500 188 229
after changing 3,4 , 5th woth longer gears
Speed calculation
Final ratio: 3.67 RPM Speed [km/h]
Gear # Ratio Engage Upshift Engage Upshift
1 3.455 0 6500 0 56
2 1.944 3657 6500 56 100
3 1.280 4280 6500 100 152
4 0.970 4926 6500 152 200
5 0.800 5361 6500 200 243
so from 100km/h i drive a diesel with external wastegate and blow off
I hope I do not make the car any slower - before it "pushed" through the rev range with ease and I hope to be able to put power on the ground with less slip. I changed the last three ratios to try and keep rev drop betweent changes to the minimum. and as you can see from the table I am still in the torque range of the motor.
Aparently rev limiter is set at 6800 rpm but that is really pushing it at the mo as the injectors are on the near limit ~ 95 % .......
I put 3, 4, 5th gears off a diesel 020, bolted the diff up, recon the gearbox ( seals and bearings, clutch is in, and there is a small table with some caculations>>>
Before >>>> at 6500 rpm rev limit >>
Speed calculation
Final ratio: 3.67 RPM Speed [km/h]
Gear # Ratio Engage Upshift Engage Upshift
1 3.455 0 6500 0 56
2 1.944 3657 6500 56 100
3 1.370 4581 6500 100 142
4 1.032 4896 6500 142 188
5 0.850 5354 6500 188 229
after changing 3,4 , 5th woth longer gears
Speed calculation
Final ratio: 3.67 RPM Speed [km/h]
Gear # Ratio Engage Upshift Engage Upshift
1 3.455 0 6500 0 56
2 1.944 3657 6500 56 100
3 1.280 4280 6500 100 152
4 0.970 4926 6500 152 200
5 0.800 5361 6500 200 243
so from 100km/h i drive a diesel with external wastegate and blow off
I hope I do not make the car any slower - before it "pushed" through the rev range with ease and I hope to be able to put power on the ground with less slip. I changed the last three ratios to try and keep rev drop betweent changes to the minimum. and as you can see from the table I am still in the torque range of the motor.
Aparently rev limiter is set at 6800 rpm but that is really pushing it at the mo as the injectors are on the near limit ~ 95 % .......
ha!
that thing flies
really - longer gears allow for turbo to load nicely and pull hard
I have a feeling the car is much faster but no proof of that
it feels really more torquey which is impossible - I have not done the full remap - that would be done after the Greddy Profec 2 electronic boost controler , so boost falls after 5 K .
reroute of wiring some weld polishing t-bolt clamps and would be ready for summer
as I have run out of money - for the mo - brakes will be done next month
that thing flies
really - longer gears allow for turbo to load nicely and pull hard
I have a feeling the car is much faster but no proof of that
it feels really more torquey which is impossible - I have not done the full remap - that would be done after the Greddy Profec 2 electronic boost controler , so boost falls after 5 K .
reroute of wiring some weld polishing t-bolt clamps and would be ready for summer
as I have run out of money - for the mo - brakes will be done next month
traction ok with you
got any vids of it in action?
after dyno and remap - now really the car is not finished but is an ongoin prject
I have run out of brakes, the car boosts more and I am afraid to extend it above 5 500 as when the clutch was slipping we could not map it there.
want to finish motor + gear box once and for all and then I will concentrate on brakes suspension
so for the clip - wait 2 - 3 weeks
cheers
stil
Guest
Air Filter:
[/QUOTE]
I Have not looked at seat engines before, so can anyone tell me if this is stock
fuel rail it this picture?
Bravo Ivane haresa mi kolata kak si q napravil, travoprovoda za injectorite standarten li e na seat?
I az sam reshil da ponapravq moq golf rallye.
I Have not looked at seat engines before, so can anyone tell me if this is stock
fuel rail it this picture?
Bravo Ivane haresa mi kolata kak si q napravil, travoprovoda za injectorite standarten li e na seat?
I az sam reshil da ponapravq moq golf rallye.
Last edited by a moderator:
haha
got you there
that is actually a Golf Mk4 20vt fuel rail chopped and modified ( the two braided hoses are off a turbo oilfeed line of the same kind )
there are two types of fuel rails thatcan be used easily - the round pipe one ( like mine) and the square ones ( found on eariler golfs I think.
If you are using original intakle manifold ( like me ) then you will have to modify feed and return lines.
got you there
that is actually a Golf Mk4 20vt fuel rail chopped and modified ( the two braided hoses are off a turbo oilfeed line of the same kind )
there are two types of fuel rails thatcan be used easily - the round pipe one ( like mine) and the square ones ( found on eariler golfs I think.
If you are using original intakle manifold ( like me ) then you will have to modify feed and return lines.
andyj
There's no F in Quality..
looking good mate.
I've finally had a chance to sprint the passat, managed to get a 15.7 at santa pod at 0.7 bar.
traction was rubbish and i managed to spin in 3rd in the dry!
I did a 1 bar run and got 15.6 but when i parked up i thought, why's my handbrake up, i dont remember putting it up!!
At that point i started queing again only for the heavans to open and the rain to start so i didnt get to do another run
I've finally had a chance to sprint the passat, managed to get a 15.7 at santa pod at 0.7 bar.
traction was rubbish and i managed to spin in 3rd in the dry!
I did a 1 bar run and got 15.6 but when i parked up i thought, why's my handbrake up, i dont remember putting it up!!
At that point i started queing again only for the heavans to open and the rain to start so i didnt get to do another run
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