You should use the following guide as seen on here before, but bear in mind my notes further down to make it a simple job.
If you follow my advice it turns a very fiddly job into a easy job.
Door Card Removal Links
Front
Back
These notes are to be added to the Steps in the guide above.
Step 1
There is a slot on the lock side of the door handle strip, it has a slot underneath to insert something to remove it (I used a flat screwdriver with tape over it).
There is also a lost on the speaker cover.
Step 2
There is a tab at the pointed end. Prise it off from this.
When refitting, push it in at the bottom end first (the side nearest the door handle strip).
Step 4
Lower the window (while the glass is taped to the door) as far as you want, as long as the clamps aren’t near the glass it’ll be fine.
Step 5
The bolt pictured at the bottom of the speaker hole doesn’t exist on UK models.
If you look at the blue circle in the guide on the page where it shows what screws to remove. The plastic you need to snap off so the door card will come off with out taking the lock out is BLACK not white. The white part is the door lock casing. If you look at the lock you can see a black lug that comes from the door card and goes into the white lock casing. Insert a flat screw driver and prise the black lug out of the white lock casing. As it’s made from GF Nylon it will probably snap (which makes refitting much easier).
If it doesn’t snap consider removing it anyway.
You should disconnect the door lock cable at the door handle end. If you remove it at the door lock end it’s very fiddly to get it back in (and you need special tools to remove the door lock).
To remove the cable you pull back the plastic clip and unhook it. You will probably also need to unclip the cable from the door card.
The window runners need to be removed from the door card before you can remove it. They are just clipped in, so a bit of force should remove them, the clips will probably break but this doesn’t matter.
You will need to unclip the window runner cable from the door card.
Speakers
See this guide HERE for the 165mm speaker, using modified 3103 adaptors and a water guard if needed.
For the tweeter undo the small torx screws (I used a small screwdriver) on the reverse of the interior door handle and unclip, you need to pull it out in a certain direction.
To remove the tweeter prise it out with a small screwdriver on the (what looks like) melted plastic part.
You can then fit your new tweeter, fixing it either by using a hot glue gun or using a piece of wire (the earth from 2.5mm T+E mains ring is good) through the 2 clips either side of the tweeter going across the back of the tweeter to hold it in place.
The crossover can be fitted just below the 165mm speaker, using the bolt hole (mentioned above) that isn't used.
Or you can wedge it in between the 165mm speaker hole and the inside edge of the storage compartment.
The door handle can the be push back into the door card in the correct direction and screwed back on.
Refitting
To make it much easier, the metal lugs that hold the runners to the door card (AFAIK they were only there to make building the car easier in the factory) can either be ground off or bent back into the cut-outs on the runner. This will save a lot of time refitting. If you do bend them back then be aware that it can create a lump of metal on the reverse of the runner which will interfere with the window mechanism. If this happens bend it back out and angle it away from the side that the runner travels on (the outer side, I think).
If the window judders about halfway down when it’s refitted then it’s the lumps mentioned above.
Re-clip the window cable onto the door card. If you clip the right one in then the other will be held in place.
You then put the runner into the door card, connect all cables (door handle) etc. Position the door card on the window seal at the top make sure everything is in place and push the door card down to seat the clips.
If you put your hand through the holes in the door card you should then be able to position the window runners so they line up with the bolt holes and bolt them in place.
If you don’t remove the lugs on the runners you have to clip the runners onto the door card (while the runners are in the door) before the door card is fitted in place which is the hard part (sounds easy!). They then normally come out when you mount the door card onto the door, making removal necessary again. There isn’t enough room to clip them in while the door card is mounted. Lining up the runners with the bolt holes is also harder when it’s clipped in for some reason.
I fitted Infinity 65.5cs speakers, good sound quality but you really need a sub for it to sound good because they have less bass than the standard speakers!
Please Sticky.
If you follow my advice it turns a very fiddly job into a easy job.
Door Card Removal Links
Front
Back
These notes are to be added to the Steps in the guide above.
Step 1
There is a slot on the lock side of the door handle strip, it has a slot underneath to insert something to remove it (I used a flat screwdriver with tape over it).
There is also a lost on the speaker cover.
Step 2
There is a tab at the pointed end. Prise it off from this.
When refitting, push it in at the bottom end first (the side nearest the door handle strip).
Step 4
Lower the window (while the glass is taped to the door) as far as you want, as long as the clamps aren’t near the glass it’ll be fine.
Step 5
The bolt pictured at the bottom of the speaker hole doesn’t exist on UK models.
If you look at the blue circle in the guide on the page where it shows what screws to remove. The plastic you need to snap off so the door card will come off with out taking the lock out is BLACK not white. The white part is the door lock casing. If you look at the lock you can see a black lug that comes from the door card and goes into the white lock casing. Insert a flat screw driver and prise the black lug out of the white lock casing. As it’s made from GF Nylon it will probably snap (which makes refitting much easier).
If it doesn’t snap consider removing it anyway.
You should disconnect the door lock cable at the door handle end. If you remove it at the door lock end it’s very fiddly to get it back in (and you need special tools to remove the door lock).
To remove the cable you pull back the plastic clip and unhook it. You will probably also need to unclip the cable from the door card.
The window runners need to be removed from the door card before you can remove it. They are just clipped in, so a bit of force should remove them, the clips will probably break but this doesn’t matter.
You will need to unclip the window runner cable from the door card.
Speakers
See this guide HERE for the 165mm speaker, using modified 3103 adaptors and a water guard if needed.
For the tweeter undo the small torx screws (I used a small screwdriver) on the reverse of the interior door handle and unclip, you need to pull it out in a certain direction.
To remove the tweeter prise it out with a small screwdriver on the (what looks like) melted plastic part.
You can then fit your new tweeter, fixing it either by using a hot glue gun or using a piece of wire (the earth from 2.5mm T+E mains ring is good) through the 2 clips either side of the tweeter going across the back of the tweeter to hold it in place.
The crossover can be fitted just below the 165mm speaker, using the bolt hole (mentioned above) that isn't used.
Or you can wedge it in between the 165mm speaker hole and the inside edge of the storage compartment.
The door handle can the be push back into the door card in the correct direction and screwed back on.
Refitting
To make it much easier, the metal lugs that hold the runners to the door card (AFAIK they were only there to make building the car easier in the factory) can either be ground off or bent back into the cut-outs on the runner. This will save a lot of time refitting. If you do bend them back then be aware that it can create a lump of metal on the reverse of the runner which will interfere with the window mechanism. If this happens bend it back out and angle it away from the side that the runner travels on (the outer side, I think).
If the window judders about halfway down when it’s refitted then it’s the lumps mentioned above.
Re-clip the window cable onto the door card. If you clip the right one in then the other will be held in place.
You then put the runner into the door card, connect all cables (door handle) etc. Position the door card on the window seal at the top make sure everything is in place and push the door card down to seat the clips.
If you put your hand through the holes in the door card you should then be able to position the window runners so they line up with the bolt holes and bolt them in place.
If you don’t remove the lugs on the runners you have to clip the runners onto the door card (while the runners are in the door) before the door card is fitted in place which is the hard part (sounds easy!). They then normally come out when you mount the door card onto the door, making removal necessary again. There isn’t enough room to clip them in while the door card is mounted. Lining up the runners with the bolt holes is also harder when it’s clipped in for some reason.
I fitted Infinity 65.5cs speakers, good sound quality but you really need a sub for it to sound good because they have less bass than the standard speakers!
Please Sticky.
Last edited:
