Std servo removal for balence bar+separate reservoirs

[R French]

Has anyone tried removing the pedal box and servo replacing them with a balance bar pedal box using separate reservoirs and cylinders for front/rear? This is for my 16v Cupra so G60/16v brake set up which is under 15x7 wheels?

I need to know what is the braking effort like, hard or soft?

I'm thinking of going down this route but am a lazy guy so if the pedal effort is too high then may need to work out a way of keeping the servo. So if someone has tried it, you can save me having to calculate mechanical leverage and fluid volume which takes ages plus it's still a compromise with what you can actually get.

I've already thrown the ABS away and it is piped internally in dash3 flexi's through a bias valve which I am not too keen on as it doesn't feel quite right - either too much front or too much rear.

Cheers folks.

 

[nog986]

Just so happens im fitting mine in at the mo. It runs A girling 0.85 for the rear and a 0.625 for the front on a bias bar. Pedal effort (in the golf, aint had the chance to try the beeza yet) was not over the top. The 0.625 sees to that. I would rate it as 15% more effort required than that of a standard servo setup. But you will brake a lot better and a lot later as you can "feel" your brakes better and you can brake progressivley, not just on and off.

Had to modify my front bulkhead to take my pedal box as it was out of a mk2 golf. Had to modify the box to accept the steering column pick up points as well.

Deffo worth the effort IMO.

 

[R French]

Thanks for the info - sorry for the late reply.
All built and used a 12 car for shakedown last night.

Virtually no front brakes so drove it all on the rears!! I've run out of adjustment on the bar and scratching my head now.

Just to check a crazy idea - smaller MC cylinder for the fronts - larger for rear?
If I've got them the wrong way then this makes sense!

Thanks.