Safe jacking points and Jack stands location

Joshhayes

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Feb 6, 2014
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Looking for some help on this, I'm currently starting to learn to do my own general maintenence on my 2010 bocanegra. Planning on changing my brake pads this weekend.

Where would I go about putting my jack stands and using my trolley jack? The problem I'm having at the moment is that I can safely jack up my car on the pinch welds but then can't fit my jack stands on the welds because my jack is in the way, is there another safe point on the car where I can use the jack?

Some pictures would be very helpful :)

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RUM4MO

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Jun 4, 2008
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South Scotland
I think that I've posted on this before, if not, what I've done is order in a set of Audi TT jacking point protector from an Audi garage, I can supply part number if you need them - or maybe Awesome GTI sell them so could send them to you. Once have them, you simply remove 4-off hard rubber bungs and fit these "two piece" jacking point protector, now you can just push the trolley jack under the car and jack on any of these 4-off points, that leaves the strong points on the siles for the axle stands.
 
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Joshhayes

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Feb 6, 2014
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Cheers mate, is this the one in the picture? I did ask about using this bung before but it's so hard to find any info on the jacking points. I'm confident with the work I need to do but I'm tearing my hair trying to support the car safely!
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Joshhayes

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Feb 6, 2014
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Right could you send that part number please then mate I'll get myself a set. Appreciate the help!

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RUM4MO

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Jun 4, 2008
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Sorry for the delay, just got back home, okay:- A8N0 804 583 CPP BRACKET 4-off + A8N0 803 855 BRACKET 4-off total price for complete kit £25.73 back in August.

Seems like Seat and Audi like to stick an "S" or a "A" before the proper part number!

Edit:- I seem to remember that Awesome GTI get them onto your door step for exactly the same money (same parts being supplied via ECS in USA), if you phone up Audi dealer and pay by card, they will get them in two working days.

Second Edit:- for your information, the reason why there are two parts is, one is a hump of rubber with a hole in it, it is pushed into the hole(s) revealed by removing the bungs, the second part is a hard plastic tapered part that presses into the rubber part to lock it in place, I used a suitable socket on top of the trolley jack to press the plastic peg fully home into the rubber part - job done!!
 
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Joshhayes

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Feb 6, 2014
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I'll be ringing them tomorrow, cheers for the info!

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Joshhayes

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Feb 6, 2014
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Been reading about these and a few people are saying it's not a safe lift point? And also requires jacking from both sides simultaneously? Have you had any problems?

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R3k1355

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Oct 30, 2014
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Usually I'd shove the jack under a chassis rail to get the front corners up in the air, and stick it under the rear beam to lift the back.

It helps if you have a decent jack with a wide flat pad, some of the cheaper ones come with a horrible little pad with nasty teeth in - so you have to stick a block of wood between the jack and car to use them.
 

Joshhayes

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Feb 6, 2014
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Yeah that's exactly what my jack is, Halfords special haha don't suppose you could take a photo could you mate? only just starting to play with mechanics and my knowledge is limited to say at the least! Very paranoid about damaging something!

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RUM4MO

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Jun 4, 2008
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South Scotland
Generally speaking, "jacking under the chassis rail" is where these Audi jacking point protectors are located front and rear. Jacking under the rear beam, then is just a torsion bar made out of a folded section of steel, never jack under that unless your next new thread is "how to reduce rear positive camber". Jacking under the ends of the beam, where the hubs get mounted on is possible but is not horizontal - which could lead to other issues.

Needing to jack up both sides at once if using Audi jacking point protectors, never heard of that, though if you have the cash, jacking one side up at a time using two jacks must be kinder to the car's chassis long term. Where things might have gone wrong when using these Audi jacking point protectors is due to the fact that all VAG cars have these 4-off locations in the chassis, and some people, mainly in USA, have fitted them to Passat W8 etc and that area of the chassis has deformed when only lifting at one point - that is not an issue with these smaller/lighter cars.

Your ideal trolley jack should have a "cup" on the top of the lifting saddle, and these Audi rubber bits fit inside the cup without bottoming and letting the top edges of the cup touch the chassis. Maybe try Machine Mart for trolley jacks and give Halfords a miss if possible.

The big things to get right when picking a trolley jack is, "lifting capacity" for small cars 2Tonnes should be okay + "closed height" + "extended height", the closed height needs to be low enough to get under the car at any jacking points, you can measure this on your car, the extended height will be the height you need to lift to to get something like axle stands under your chosen location - Jack Sealey brand is very good for DIYers I've found and long chassis (FRAME) jacks are quite stable.

Like any other lifting points on any car, they are mainly meant to be used with workshop lifts, which lift the complete car in one go, though remember some areas also need to be able to cope with changing a wheel at the side of the road with a simple single point lifting device.
 
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Joshhayes

Active Member
Feb 6, 2014
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My jack and stands I believe are 3 tonne, however I do only have 1 trolley jack with a cup shown in the picture, is it safe to lift one side and put it on the stand and then do the opposite side and put it on the stand, or is it important to put both sides on the stands simultaneously?
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R3k1355

Active Member
Oct 30, 2014
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Yorkshire
Those little jacks are the ones I hate, I'd get yourself something bigger.

An arcan or SGS engineering jack, low entry with a wider jack pad would be better.
 

Joshhayes

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Feb 6, 2014
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I'm on a budget to be fair mate, just forked out for pads and discs all round, tyres, and a service. How much are those jacks? Would like to avoid buying another if possible

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Joshhayes

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Feb 6, 2014
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Think I'll pass on that then mate, but pricey for me atm

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RUM4MO

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Jun 4, 2008
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I'd reckon if you fitted the Audi jacking point protectors, they would fit into that trolley jack cup nicely.

Until I had enough money to spend on a few trolley jacks (2-off bigger ones + 2-off small ones + 1-off very old Halfords one that will not die), I always jacked cars up one corner at a time - needs must, niceties come later in life! So, try not to worry, the chassis flexes slightly when you drive over humps and bumps.

Right, I'm off to lift wife's Polo up using the Audi jacking point protectors, though maybe one side at a time as I am lucky, then it is on with winter alloys and Alpin A4 tyres.
 
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Joshhayes

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Feb 6, 2014
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I've just pulled up the drawings for these at work via KVS and the drawing states - 'Resistance to outdoor exposure warm/moist climates: 1 year', no objection (translated from german) thought you might want to know :)

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RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
8,022
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South Scotland
I've just pulled up the drawings for these at work via KVS and the drawing states - 'Resistance to outdoor exposure warm/moist climates: 1 year', no objection (translated from german) thought you might want to know :)

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So if/when you buy some you will not be surprised to find that you can not remove them after a good few years - you not got them fitted yet? (the "rubber" material certainly had firmed up "nicely" over the period of maybe 10 years)

I did not think that I needed to post back after lifting the Polo up and swopping wheels/tyres over from Summer type to Winter type - but just to remove any suggestion of me having a disaster - everything when according to plan!

Only issue I currently have is storing the ex 9N Polo winter wheels/tyres until I sell/dump them, this has meant that my "mechanics foam mat" has ended up on the garage floor - and a mouse has chewed quite a bit off it already, today's job will include buying a couple of mouse traps (sorry field mouse - it has to be like this!)
 
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Joshhayes

Active Member
Feb 6, 2014
42
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So if/when you buy some you will not be surprised to find that you can not remove them after a good few years - you not got them fitted yet? (the "rubber" material certainly had firmed up "nicely" over the period of maybe 10 years)

I did not think that I needed to post back after lifting the Polo up and swopping wheels/tyres over from Summer type to Winter type - but just to remove any suggestion of me having a disaster - everything when according to plan!
I'll be getting them this week, had to pay for a few other things first. I thought I'd just check in KVS that everything was correct before I rang audi and noticed that note. Thought I'd post it in case anyone was interested.

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