Changing my brake pads on the weekend, are there any do's and don'ts, sorry if this is a stupid question but its the best place to ask 
Replacing Brake Pads Do'&Don'ts
- Thread starter Al-Batson92
- Start date
Changing brake pads is one of the easiest DIY jobs. I don't see what's wrong in asking for a bit of advice?
Off the top of my head -
Off the top of my head -
- Check the disks first, and replace them at the same time if they are badly scored or worn too thin. Disks wear out almost as fast as pads these days.
- An impact screwdriver (the kind you hit with a hammer) can help to get the locating screw out of the disk if it's rusted in.
- Loosen the wheel nuts before jacking the car up
- Support the car on axle stands, never work with the car held up on the jack alone.
- Open the top of the hydraulic fluid reservoir before starting to push the caliper pistons back.
- Unless the level is very low, remove some fluid from the reservoir. Pushing the pistons back will displace fluid back into the reservoir and it's messy to clean up if it overflows.
- Lever back the caliper pistons just far enough to get them off the disks, and be careful not to damage the dust seal.
- A pair of wide-jaw plumbing pliers can be useful to finish pushing the front pistons in. Rear calipers will need a windback tool.
- Clean the rust off the pad guides. Top as well as bottom.
- Don't let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
- Be careful not to disturb the ABS sensors
- The brake pad with the wear sensor (if you have one) goes in the nearside front caliper.
- If your new pads don't have a wear sensor and you need one, keep the wire and connector from the old pad, join the two wires and plug it in. Keeps the plugs clean and stops the warning light appearing on the dash.
Thanks for the advice. The pads came in the post today so they will be on by the end of the week. Thanks for the reply again.
Loads of copper grease!!! not on the face of pad tho!! lol
Also pump brakes before set off, iv forgot it before and had a squeeky bum moment!!
Also pump brakes before set off, iv forgot it before and had a squeeky bum moment!!
Good point on pumping the brakes down to a firm contact. If you do that as each caliper is finished, it will reduce any likelyhood for the hydraulic fluid to overflow.
Copper grease on the back of the pads can improve heat transfer and reduce any tendency to squeak. I would not use it on the pad guides - it will collect brake dust and inhibit free pad movement.
Having said that, I've never used copper grease on brake pads and have never had any problems.
Copper grease on the back of the pads can improve heat transfer and reduce any tendency to squeak. I would not use it on the pad guides - it will collect brake dust and inhibit free pad movement.
Having said that, I've never used copper grease on brake pads and have never had any problems.
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Modern pads have anti squeal backing so you don't need copper slip. Use the old pads to lever against when returning the piston. Gives better load displacement.
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As above really, however I would seriously recommend getting a piston wind back tool, they are less that £20 and make the job so much easier and quicker.. Plus reduces your chances of damaging the seal..
Cant say I've ever seen pads sieze.
As for pins, yes copper slip those, I was reffering to the copper slipping padss comment.
Ha!!!
so very true mate.On the front a large set of dog grips will suffice but on the rears you will need a wind back tool or risk cocking the calipers right up.
Then you've either not worked on a lot of VW group cars or you've not been in the trade long enough.
The rear discs setup found on the leon mk1 is also shared with the leon mk2, golf 3,4,5, skoda octavia, audi A3s etc and are prone to siezing if they are not lubricated or the shims are not replaced every now and again.
For the sake of 2p worth of copper grease and 10seconds of time you should always grease the exposed parts of the slides and use high melting point grease on consealed slides, like on the leon rears. Dont use copper grease in them though as it can un-oxidise the rubber seals and allow an ingress of water causing them to you guessed it - sieze!
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Never had a set seize on me yet. Including the shitty girling effort in the French hatches. But then again I always replace the shims/anti rattle springs regardless..
MJ wrote
Holy Thread Resurrection, Batman!
Right, having got that out of the way - I spotted your entry while searching for something else, and would like to understand just what you're recommending here, coz I'm too thick to work it out on my own.
I think you're recommending greasing the caliper slides, which are enclosed in rubber dust covers on the rear calipers I've worked on.
Or, you might be recommending that I should grease the pad slides, the straight edges of the caliper that the pads themselves slide on, with copper grease.
Which is it, please?
The rear discs setup found on the leon mk1 is also shared with the leon mk2, golf 3,4,5, skoda octavia, audi A3s etc and are prone to siezing if they are not lubricated or the shims are not replaced every now and again.
For the sake of 2p worth of copper grease and 10seconds of time you should always grease the exposed parts of the slides and use high melting point grease on consealed slides, like on the leon rears. Dont use copper grease in them though as it can un-oxidise the rubber seals and allow an ingress of water causing them to you guessed it - sieze!
For the sake of 2p worth of copper grease and 10seconds of time you should always grease the exposed parts of the slides and use high melting point grease on consealed slides, like on the leon rears. Dont use copper grease in them though as it can un-oxidise the rubber seals and allow an ingress of water causing them to you guessed it - sieze!
Holy Thread Resurrection, Batman!
Right, having got that out of the way - I spotted your entry while searching for something else, and would like to understand just what you're recommending here, coz I'm too thick to work it out on my own.
I think you're recommending greasing the caliper slides, which are enclosed in rubber dust covers on the rear calipers I've worked on.
Or, you might be recommending that I should grease the pad slides, the straight edges of the caliper that the pads themselves slide on, with copper grease.
Which is it, please?
Use high melting point grease in and on the caliper pins and copper grease on the part of the caliper carrier the pad makes contact with, it is confusing how I've wrote on on the original post.
Many thanks, MJ. I've always been leery of greasing the pad slides, since grease attracts dust (forming sticky sludge) and brakes make lots of dust. I've always made do with cleaning all the crud and corrosion off the pad slides back to bare metal when I change pads.
Rear pads can go a long time between changes, though. If it works in your experience, that's good enough for me.
Rear pads can go a long time between changes, though. If it works in your experience, that's good enough for me.
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