relay 167

[Adam180]

hey everybody,
was due to start a new job today at 8.30am,
got up extra early and went out to the car(cupra)
turned it over, epc and EML flashing with click from relay 167, took it out and taped it a few times, car started ok, went to leave my estate and the car died, now when i turn the engine over all i get is the the handbrake light and battery, like theres no ecu plugged into the car at all,
as far as first impressions at work go id still like to make it in 2moro, any suggestions or any body heard of this before

to be clear the engine does attempt to turn over so its not the starter motor
and this relay is click like mad, there is also a click from the inlet manifold flap please help

 

[Adam180]

the following faults were logged
1. oxygen(lamda) sensor b1 s3 signal too high

2. internal control module failed self test

i know about the lamda sensor bit cos its been like that for ages i assumed it cos the car was a bit lean from fitting a bigger turbo but after having it dyno'd with a new sensor placed up the exhaust it was reading dead on i put it down to end of life sensor

anyone have any ideas about the 2nd fault tho

 

[tris]

167 went on the Cordy fuel pump relay cheap fix

 

[Adam180]

i replaced it and it did work for a while, but after about 20 minutes i lost all ECU competely and then it did flicker on i had the following faults,
Address 01: Engine

17633 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30): Short to Ground
P1225 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17634 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31): Short to Ground
P1226 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17526 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating: B1 S2: Open Circuit
P1118 - 35-00 - -

17697 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Short to Ground
P1289 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 1101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes

01314 - Engine Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent


does anyone know of these semptomes to corrolate with any of the faults i found

 

[Reuvers]

check the 7th fuse under steering wheel. the red one.


quite a few threads on here.

I think that's gone

its the 8th fuse from the left btw

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=187660&page=2

click on pic to blow it up

 

[Adam180]

checked it mate all fuses are 100% im not getting any engine management light or epc light at all now when i turn the key to any stage so its like my ecu isnt connected or something, heard ppl saying cam/crank shaft possitioning sensor but surly i would still get an eml light on ignition?
please help if anyone knows anything at all

 

[Adam180]

update, found a melted fuse on my battery cover, i understand this is my fan fuse and its a common problem, would this be trowing up my epc and ecu light?

 

[Reuvers]

I thought you said you weren't getting lights?

 

[Reuvers]

and obviously fix the fuse...

 

[Adam180]

im not getting epc or eml light,

 

[Jonny95 SXE]

any update? this happened me today,

injector 3 is staying on and open when i turn the ignition on

 

[Adam180]

got a new ecu which is now getting me my epc and engine managment light on at ignition and replaced the melted fuse box, however the fans keep switching on and off no matter what your doing and the car turns its self off the second it starts, patients is wearing thin with seat build quality

 

[Jonny95 SXE]

any updates dude,

I hade the same faults, have close on 0.25 volts on one ijector always, also think my n249 bypas resistors may be shot. no faults on the ECU, the engine ticks over roughly and wont rev just cutts out. WIERD!

 

[Adam180]

yip new ecu sorted it, got a second hand one and swapped over my chip and imobilizer chip, worked a treat,

 

[Jonny95 SXE]

was it hard to swap the chip man?

 

[Adam180]

wouldnt try it yourself purely because it needs to be removed my a hot air gun, then the board cleaned to remove any flux that could cause a bad connection and then each pin tinned and soldered, a job for a pro. but not a big job for them so shouldnt hurt the bank, just get a 2nd hand ecu from a breakers but make sure its intended for your car and not another car with the same model of ecu, eg. ME 7.5 or EDC15