Rear camber shims
- Thread starter fillmecca
- Start date
yeah they would be fine, depends how much poke you have, be carful though i tried fitting mine a while back, and i couldn't get one of the carrier bolts off and had to give up, gonna have a go again soon, and try and drill it out.
Problem with actual shims is they don't correct the toe in so using them will give your wheels toe in and scrub your tyres in no time. Sorry I haven't replied to your pm yet but will do when I finish work so I can explain. I took shims out and used different sized washers in the front hole to the back to correct this. If your running standard height ten the shims are of but I gues your lowered.
so what your saying is don't use shims?Shim order has been cancelled. I shall wait for your PM Lodey23 explaining what washers I need n what to do. I currently have the rears on (scrubbing a fair bit) awaiting two tyres for the fronts so they are not on yet. Its lowered yeah on JOM coilovers currently 70mm on back going to raise it 10mm tonight and it's about 55mm on front.
Think you will be fine with the shims, my mate did 25,000 miles on his mk4, the rear tyres had so little wear he sold it with them on !!! Washers to alter toe, is pretty pikey IMO. Not sure how much toe there is actually supposed to be on the rears ?
But the clamp load going through those bolts is better if its spread out over a larger surface area, surely ? Also have to think about cambering your brake caliper aswell, been told its not necessary with -1.0 degrees, but can be done easily with a washer, because its only one bolt.
+1 on the pikeyness. Wouldn't feel safe driving around with washers adjusting the toe-in etc. Be worried about shearing the wheel bolts from uneven load on them. Sure it probably looks good with 70mm drop if that's your thing, but surely it must handle like crap with all the suspension settings so far out of spec? Do you actually have any tyre contact with the road? lol.
I believe the clamp surface is the thread of the bolt and the plate as they interlock? There's no additional strength given by it being a large surface (if I remember that one lesson of mechanical engineering from many many years ago!!). Although there may be a risk that if the washers compress you could end up with loose bolts, which I assume would be designed into the shims.
Mmm, not really thought about the calipers, they are mounted on the axle aren't they? Would the natural floating nature of the pads compensate in some way perhaps? I can imagine the carrier getting awfully close to the disc.
Daft question though, is it worth getting the car on to a hunter machine first to see exactly what is needed? Obviously apart from the 1 degree camber that is desired, it might be worth seeing what the toe actually is to see if it needs so much work?
Mmm, not really thought about the calipers, they are mounted on the axle aren't they? Would the natural floating nature of the pads compensate in some way perhaps? I can imagine the carrier getting awfully close to the disc.
Daft question though, is it worth getting the car on to a hunter machine first to see exactly what is needed? Obviously apart from the 1 degree camber that is desired, it might be worth seeing what the toe actually is to see if it needs so much work?
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well you could argue that the washers are pikey, but i have been using them and a lot of other people have done too.
And right, think about this the rear wheels move forward into the arches when the suspension compresses because the axel pivots around a point, now if you increase the camber at a certain height as it compresses the camber will turn into toe, this is because of the set up of the rear bolts holding on the stub axle. I can supply pictures to people who would like to see them.
And yes, you will also need to fit washers into your brake caliper carriers to set the calipers to the right angle to the disc.
And right, think about this the rear wheels move forward into the arches when the suspension compresses because the axel pivots around a point, now if you increase the camber at a certain height as it compresses the camber will turn into toe, this is because of the set up of the rear bolts holding on the stub axle. I can supply pictures to people who would like to see them.
And yes, you will also need to fit washers into your brake caliper carriers to set the calipers to the right angle to the disc.
The clamp surface is directly related to the friction supplied, the surface area would be decreased if using washers, where the shims create a large area of friction.... ?
There have been some people who have found they dont need to camber the caliper, and some who have, i know i trialed it, and the caliper caught on the disc and then acted as a lathe, and was putting a large chamfer on it !!!!!
There have been some people who have found they dont need to camber the caliper, and some who have, i know i trialed it, and the caliper caught on the disc and then acted as a lathe, and was putting a large chamfer on it !!!!!
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