Rear Brakes
- Thread starter matt_s
- Start date
Its easy.
2 bolts on the bracket, then you can take it off.
Remove brake pads, dont forget to push de caliper back with special tool(press and turn back) brake disk one torx screw.
Bolts handtight.
Done mine fr 2014 last monday front and back with brembo max discs and pads.
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2 bolts on the bracket, then you can take it off.
Remove brake pads, dont forget to push de caliper back with special tool(press and turn back) brake disk one torx screw.
Bolts handtight.
Done mine fr 2014 last monday front and back with brembo max discs and pads.
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You need a couple of spanners to remove the slide/guide bolts, a ring spanner for the head of these bolts and an open ended one to hold the end of the slide/guide bolts as they are free to rotate - so maybe torques, while there will be a figure, are really down to you to know how much to tighten them to by experience, if in doubt don't do this job. Buy a can of brake cleaner to help clean the callipers etc up and apply some copper grease to the contact points of the pads<>carrier.
Have you done a rear pad replacement before Matt? If not you may find retracting the caliper piston is the most difficult part of the job. It can be done without the tool but is much easier with. They are for sale at lots of places like Halfords, Machine mart, and others and are not too pricey. The caliper piston needs to be "screwed" back into the caliper at the same time as a linear force is applied to force it back in - much easier with the tool but can still be awkward. Copa slip (a mixture of ground copper and high melting point grease) has been used for many many years by mechanics to lube the metal mounting points on brake pads and calipers - Use very sparingly and DO NOT get it on any of the friction faces. However in recent years because there was some question about copper/metallic based greases interfering with ABS sensors the recommendation is now to use Ceramic grease on brakes (Ceratec is a common brand). Your new caliper bolts will often be precoated with blue thread lock compound. If not I'd buy some (I'm a big believer in applying thread lock to suspension nuts and bolts) A wee tube of it goes a long way. I wouldn't usually use a torque wrench on these bolts - but I would on caliper carrier to hub bolts - Just snug them up "nice 'n tite". But then I'm now in my 70's and I've been doing this since my late teens.
Not knowing your level of ability can I just say - If you're not too sure what you're doing with this then get help from someone who does know. Getting brakes wrong can easily end in tears or worse.
Ha, my copper grease actually has Copaslip on the tin, bought maybe almost 40 years ago - a large tin, I'm probably converting to Ceratec slowly - well on my car anyway!
OP, sorry I missed commenting on how you are going to get these pistons back in, I agree, without a piston windback tool you are going to have/make trouble, maybe add ECP into where you can buy one as I noticed they were selling them earlier this week when I was out buying stuff. VW Group and some others use Right Handed ones on both sides, so only one tool needed.
If you find that these callipers are not releasing fully always, after cleaning them up, you could always fit external return springs from a MK1 Sharan etc - earlier small VW Group needed them so I fitted them to my wife's Polo when it was brand new, really to avoid any future dragging rear brakes.
OP, sorry I missed commenting on how you are going to get these pistons back in, I agree, without a piston windback tool you are going to have/make trouble, maybe add ECP into where you can buy one as I noticed they were selling them earlier this week when I was out buying stuff. VW Group and some others use Right Handed ones on both sides, so only one tool needed.
If you find that these callipers are not releasing fully always, after cleaning them up, you could always fit external return springs from a MK1 Sharan etc - earlier small VW Group needed them so I fitted them to my wife's Polo when it was brand new, really to avoid any future dragging rear brakes.
Hey, I did exactly that (the return spring thing) on my older boy's Fabia. Worked a treat!
Enclosed is a wee "pick 'n mix" of my anti-seize "helpers" Not too sure how to do the picture thing yet so hoping it'll come through
I recently bought a tin of the aluminium loaded one (not MolySlip branded though) but so far it has not been used, my silicon one was a cast off from when I worked, it had reached its QA expiry date so I saved it from being binned, a bit like many of the Loctites I acquired the same way!
Edit:- my wife's old Polo, bought new in September 2002, ended up with a dragging offside rear brake calliper while within its one year manufacturer's warranty (I had personally imported it from NL VW dealership so in UK it only had 12 months warranty and I would have had to pay VW UK for the 2nd year warranty if I wanted it - I didn't want it), so I fully retracted the piston every 4 months to keep that at bay, then people started talking about fitting an external return spring - buying/fitting them sorted that out at least until we traded that car at 105K miles and 13 years. I don't think that the later cars, like 6R/6C Polo or similar Ibiza like 6J end up with that issue as I think the internal return springs are stronger, but I thought that I'd get rid of that possibility by fitting external springs to her August 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS SEL as soon as she bought it brand new.
Edit:- my wife's old Polo, bought new in September 2002, ended up with a dragging offside rear brake calliper while within its one year manufacturer's warranty (I had personally imported it from NL VW dealership so in UK it only had 12 months warranty and I would have had to pay VW UK for the 2nd year warranty if I wanted it - I didn't want it), so I fully retracted the piston every 4 months to keep that at bay, then people started talking about fitting an external return spring - buying/fitting them sorted that out at least until we traded that car at 105K miles and 13 years. I don't think that the later cars, like 6R/6C Polo or similar Ibiza like 6J end up with that issue as I think the internal return springs are stronger, but I thought that I'd get rid of that possibility by fitting external springs to her August 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS SEL as soon as she bought it brand new.
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I bought the Alumslip when I took the injectors out of my old 1.9 VE tdi Cordoba. I wanted to minimize the possibility of them corroding in place and thought an aluminium product in an aluminium head was just a good idea. Despite owning the car for several years after overhauling the injectors I never needed to remove them again so I've no idea how effective it was! Just another "soldier" in my cohort now. You'll notice my Copper product is not the Moly brand and I have to say I much prefer the consistency of the Moly product.
I had quite a time with the Fabia's rear brakes dragging. It was a second hand car and had the problem almost since purchase. The dealer tried a couple of times to rectify under it's used car guarantee but never really got on top of it and refused to buy new calipers. I subsequently stripped them, cleaned them up and reassembled fitting new cables (although the old ones, once removed, didn't look too bad) - got about 4, maybe 5 months before it was back to it again! The problem was weird as you could quite easily return them by applying quite moderate hand pressure to the levers on the calipers themselves. It was symptomatic of partially seized cables, but in the end i reached the conclusion it was just not enough spring pressure to do the job. I was about to buy new calipers when I read somewhere on the internet about how some of the VAG products used these springs so I bought a pair from TPS. I became confused as to exactly how they fitted to the caliper so went back on line and found a number of very good video's on the subject. There were dire warnings in some of these about how you can seriously damage your fingers fitting them but I found it quite easy and we never had the problem again - Made sure to "splash" the Copa slip around at service time.
I had quite a time with the Fabia's rear brakes dragging. It was a second hand car and had the problem almost since purchase. The dealer tried a couple of times to rectify under it's used car guarantee but never really got on top of it and refused to buy new calipers. I subsequently stripped them, cleaned them up and reassembled fitting new cables (although the old ones, once removed, didn't look too bad) - got about 4, maybe 5 months before it was back to it again! The problem was weird as you could quite easily return them by applying quite moderate hand pressure to the levers on the calipers themselves. It was symptomatic of partially seized cables, but in the end i reached the conclusion it was just not enough spring pressure to do the job. I was about to buy new calipers when I read somewhere on the internet about how some of the VAG products used these springs so I bought a pair from TPS. I became confused as to exactly how they fitted to the caliper so went back on line and found a number of very good video's on the subject. There were dire warnings in some of these about how you can seriously damage your fingers fitting them but I found it quite easy and we never had the problem again - Made sure to "splash" the Copa slip around at service time.
Cheers. I was wondering if they were both the same thread.
Hopefully I'll be ok, I've done oil changes, my heater matrix and put new bearings in the washing machine.
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Luckily no heater matrix swop for me yet in my car sorting life, maybe a drum bearing on a washing machine though!
So far all the VAG ones I've come across have been right hand thread on both sides. I "mess about" with small Fiats quite a bit too and the ones that have rear calipers are reputed to be left hand thread on the N/S and right hand on the O/S - although so far all the Pandas (4 off) and my boy's Punto have all had drums on the rear.
Oil change? Ok nearly anyone could probably do that, but heater matrix and washing machine drum bearings? well as my kids would put it respect to you sir!
Ah "same thread" I just interpreted that to mean, "are we still talking about the same subject/thread" - dual use of words can mess up the English language!
Yes VW Group is still all RH thread for rear pistons on all sides!
Yes VW Group is still all RH thread for rear pistons on all sides!
So, "Crossthreaded" seems particularly apt in this context?
Thankfully I've not yet had to tackle an electric hand brake! - What a daft idea! whoever thought that was a good idea/improvement?
Hum, unfortunately my 2011 Audi S4 has one of these, I've got use to it but would rather have a handbrake that used Bowden cables. That car also has proper "hill hold" so if you enable "auto hill hold" it works as a parking brake when you have stopped, it does this the same way as all other cars with hill hold, by closing the valves in the ABS control block - and holds the car for ever, or until you unclip the driver's seat belt/open the driver's door/switch the ignition off at which point it applies the electric handbrake. The system fitted to cars without electric handbrakes only holds for a few seconds and is always active, with that S4, you can chose to have it active after starting the car or chose to leave it deactivated - I like having that choice as sometimes I want it to be on and sometimes I don't. The thing about using the hill hold is, some people think that for cars with electric handbrakes, using hill hold can extend the life of the electric block on the rear callipers - which does not sound clever if you need to consider that!
I've had the rear pads out for cleaning up - I have VCDS so use its built in function to fully retract the handbrake actuators, you would not want any part of your body to get clamped by these actuators as they are beasts!
I've had the rear pads out for cleaning up - I have VCDS so use its built in function to fully retract the handbrake actuators, you would not want any part of your body to get clamped by these actuators as they are beasts!
I've had my VCDS from back in the days it was called VAG-COM. I use it to do a whole vehicle scan every time I start a service which lets me know if there are any problems to address. I do a fair bit of fault finding with it too and use the generic OBD program on other family cars. I especially like being able to graph sensors etc. - it seems to work well on my boy's '07 ASTRA but our Panda doesn't like it at all, failing to connect fully and making the electric steering tremble - Panda version of a "knee trembler"? Still, for the Fiat/Alfa stuff - even does the Suzuki SX4 - which is really a Fiat anyway, I've got Multiecuscan which is a package with similar ability to VCDS.
I'm afraid I'm a bit of an old "stick in the mud" in that I really dislike most of the modern in car tech and driver assist stuff. Hill hold, Stop start, Auto wipers and lights etc - please don't get me started on touch screens and their like! I deactivate stop/start on the Ibiza every time I start it and I've always been in the habit of applying the handbrake when at rest so the hill hold very seldom comes into play (but I wish I could just permanently deactivate it). So I just can't understand why you would add the complication and potentially expensive repair costs of an electrically powered hand brake! As you say, It really could make a big mess - like removing finger tips etc - on the unwary come service time!
I've also had VCDS since it was VAG-COM, first bought that in late 2000 or early 2001, then upgraded in VCDS when I had to.
One silly/nasty thing about electric hand brakes is, if you get forgetful and apply it as you are coming to a halt, the car will stop dead, which among other things will probably concern your fellow passengers.
When my old 2000 VW Passat 4Motion needed a new rear bumper skin because someone who had stopped behind me in a queue, went and took his foot off the clutch pedal(!!), I had a new Passat B6 as a loan car, just after they had been launched and it had an electric hand brake and not much else, which meant you really did need to get all your ducks in a row before starting to release the electric hand brake, thankfully soon later VW Group added in some niceties to make it possible to operate a car with an electric hand brake - when I was arranging for the loan car, they said it will not be a four wheel drive car or the same high trim level - I said, "just make it a Golf and I'll be happy" - the reason for saying that was to try to avoid getting a car supplied that had an electric hand brake, but that ploy failed! That car came covered with "do not smoke or you will get a bill for cleaning this car" notices, I had given up smoking about 30 years before that and that possibly 4 month old car had probably seen 4000 cigs smoked in it in its short life, so when you add that fact in along with the electric hand brake, I just gave up and used the bus to get to work! Oh and when it was cold, it was almost impossible to reverse it up my moderately steep driveway probably as it was an early 2.0 CRD engine, total dustbin of a car and I confirmed that my next car would not be another Passat, my old B5 Passat was just lots of old A4 B5 bits with a few S or RS rear end bits - so essentially an Audi A4 quattro 2.8V6 30V in VW's cheaper clothes and annoyingly softer higher springs!
One silly/nasty thing about electric hand brakes is, if you get forgetful and apply it as you are coming to a halt, the car will stop dead, which among other things will probably concern your fellow passengers.
When my old 2000 VW Passat 4Motion needed a new rear bumper skin because someone who had stopped behind me in a queue, went and took his foot off the clutch pedal(!!), I had a new Passat B6 as a loan car, just after they had been launched and it had an electric hand brake and not much else, which meant you really did need to get all your ducks in a row before starting to release the electric hand brake, thankfully soon later VW Group added in some niceties to make it possible to operate a car with an electric hand brake - when I was arranging for the loan car, they said it will not be a four wheel drive car or the same high trim level - I said, "just make it a Golf and I'll be happy" - the reason for saying that was to try to avoid getting a car supplied that had an electric hand brake, but that ploy failed! That car came covered with "do not smoke or you will get a bill for cleaning this car" notices, I had given up smoking about 30 years before that and that possibly 4 month old car had probably seen 4000 cigs smoked in it in its short life, so when you add that fact in along with the electric hand brake, I just gave up and used the bus to get to work! Oh and when it was cold, it was almost impossible to reverse it up my moderately steep driveway probably as it was an early 2.0 CRD engine, total dustbin of a car and I confirmed that my next car would not be another Passat, my old B5 Passat was just lots of old A4 B5 bits with a few S or RS rear end bits - so essentially an Audi A4 quattro 2.8V6 30V in VW's cheaper clothes and annoyingly softer higher springs!
You are right to be confused as they would have needed to be fully retracted to fit the new pads and that involves rewinding AND pressing back in, I’d think that your rear callipers are now a bit “stuffed”!I'm confused. None of the calipers on my 1.6TDI ST were wind back, they just pushed back in (no special tool, but make sure the res cap is lose). All working fine here. Wind back calipers is very late 90s.
Edit:- maybe you could explain how these very modern rear callipers with handbrake functioned then!
My wife has a 2015 Polo and it still has rear callipers that need rewinding, you have fooled yourself I think!
Yup, though I have had these mini shoes inside the disc-drum on my 1991 VX Cav GSI 4X4 2000 16V - yes all that information was fitted to the boot rear face.
Edit:- I'd reckon that these rear callipers will stay the way they are until they become electric handbrake - which still involves a thread on the inside side.
Edit:- I'd reckon that these rear callipers will stay the way they are until they become electric handbrake - which still involves a thread on the inside side.
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