Question on replacing Balljoint

steveuk23

Active Member
Jan 6, 2015
29
0
Hi,
I have a 2003 seat Ibiza 1.2 and it's just failed its mot on lower front suspension Balljoints on both sides.
I've bought 2 for £26 and just looked in the manual and it's saying about taking of the swivel hub and anti roll bar !
Is that really necessary? I thought I could leave them in place and just undo the retaining nut on the Balljoint (and the 3 bolts on the plate) and just pop it out .
Thanks for any help
 

R3k1355

Active Member
Oct 30, 2014
1,866
272
Yorkshire
Is it bolted onto the end of the arm or held in with studs?

It'll need releasing from the hub for sure, but on most cars you can pop a new balljoint in without removing the arm from the car.
 

steveuk23

Active Member
Jan 6, 2015
29
0
Is it bolted onto the end of the arm or held in with studs?

It'll need releasing from the hub for sure, but on most cars you can pop a new balljoint in without removing the arm from the car.
Hi thanks for your reply.
Yeah it's just bolted onto the arm with 3 bolts.
I've got a ball joint splitter for releasing it but I was surprised when I read in the Haynes manual telling me to completely take of the hub and anti roll bar.
Thanks for the info
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
8,078
1,106
South Scotland
The comment about the ARB will be to suggest you disconnect one end of the ARB drop links to avoid having the ARB annoying you if you lift only one side of the car at a time.

If it is not too late, wire brush the underside of the TCA arms/swivel and then spray on some paint - yellow is good, this is so that you can return the new swivel to exactly the same place as the previous one to minimise any wheel alignment issues.
 
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steveuk23

Active Member
Jan 6, 2015
29
0
The comment about the ARB will be to suggest you disconnect one end of the ARB drop links to avoid having the ARB annoying you if you lift only one side of the car at a time.

If it is not too late, wire brush the underside of the TCA arms/swivel and then spray on some paint - yellow is good, this is so that you can return the new swivel to exactly the same place as the previous one to minimise any wheel alignment issues.
Thanks for that but I'm not sure what you mean.
What's a TCA :confused: I'm not fitting a new swivel only the replacing the ball joint
 
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RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
8,078
1,106
South Scotland
TCA is Track Control Arm - the bit that is the front suspension lower arm, the balljoint is bolted on to the outer end of that assembly. An other name for that part comes from its function, ie swivel, it is the balljoint that allows the lower end of the hub/strut to swivel when the steering wheel is turned. Maybe you need to rethink this task or buy a Haynes repair manual for support! Second thoughts, sorry you have that, keep reading it and things should fall into place.
 
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steveuk23

Active Member
Jan 6, 2015
29
0
TCA is Track Control Arm - the bit that is the front suspension lower arm, the balljoint is bolted on to the outer end of that assembly. An other name for that part comes from its function, ie swivel, it is the balljoint that allows the lower end of the hub/strut to swivel when the steering wheel is turned. Maybe you need to rethink this task or buy a Haynes repair manual for support! Second thoughts, sorry you have that, keep reading it and things should fall into place.
Hi thanks for that,
I know most of the parts now and what they do can just never remember their name!
I'm not sure I will be doing them now though... Last night I took the wheel off to have a look and couldn't believe the amount of rust on the plate and bolts it will be I nightmare to get off so I might get the garage to do them far easier on ramps :)
I can understand why it says about taking the other parts of though as they do get in the way
 

Arkaig

Active Member
Mar 1, 2014
335
1
Fife, Scotland
flickr.com
If you're working on old rusty bolts, then I recommend a set of these: Irwin Bolt Grips http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set-5-pieces/96028

My ball joint bolts were rusted solid, even a breaker bar and good socket set was just chewing up the edges. These bite right in to the bolt, gets them out no bother at all. You will have to replace the bolts afterwards, but you should be doing that with these ones anyway.

Plusgas is also a good penetrating fluid for getting them cracked in the first place.
 
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R3k1355

Active Member
Oct 30, 2014
1,866
272
Yorkshire
The bolts on the balljoint will get all the **** off the road over them as well, you've got like 10 years of salt and crap covering them - it's no wonder they're rusty.

Still, ten year old bolts is nothing - start playing with classic cars and you'll see rusty lumps that once were bolts and you've no idea what size they are.
 

bald_eagle

yeah its blue but i like
Mar 25, 2007
528
1
mine were a bit rusty for sure ,came off ok after a soaking with penetrating fluid though.

dont see why you cant just pop them out once you have separated the balljoint from the wishbone.
 

steveuk23

Active Member
Jan 6, 2015
29
0
Thanks for the info guys.
The reason I'm thinking of going to the garage now is I've only got 1 spare day to do it this Saturday and with the weather forecast as really bad the garage only quoted me £60 to fit them
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
8,078
1,106
South Scotland
I had been working on cars for lots of years by the time I had to take the front suspension to bits on wife's 2003 MY Polo 9N at end of 2005 or 2006, I was shocked with just how nasty any job was on the front suspension, quite an eye opener! Ibiza and Polo are just crappy Skoda Fabia underneath with a smarter set of clothes!

It has been said that you can't polish a turd - this is true, though at getting on for 104K miles and 12.5 years old, that car still runs okay, though very tatty with rust.
 
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