Possible purchase of a leon

evertonmarc

Guest
Hiya guys,

hope your all well!

Looking to purchase a "hot" hatch, probably in December.

Where i am so far....VXR is out (shoddy build quality), Type-R is out (already owned one previously, all be it the EK9 import).

Which kind of leave the Focus RS (MK1 2003/4 model), or a Leon Cupra-R.

Could any of you kindly let me know what to look for when viewing a Cupra R? Anything that's advisable to check?
I know your all going to be wearing your rose tinted glasses so no point in asking which is better!

Is the Cupra R the 225bhp one?

appreciate any thoughts!
Marc

OOPS my mistake, put this in the wrong forum section - my apologies
 
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JamJay

California Bound
Hi Marc. You'll find most people on here are quite honest and won't blow the SEAT trumpet where credit is due somewhere else :).

MK1 Focus RS is a fantastic car although a little more focused towards the track rather than the roads as far as suspension goes. Benefits of it in my eyes are LSD and independant rear suspension where LCR has no LSD and beam rear suspension.

The Cupra R came in two variants: 2003 - 2003 (03) 210bhp, 2003 (53) - 2006 222bhp. On the roads there is no difference that I can tell, despite the 0.2s 0-60mph difference that Parkers claim.

As you might have already guessed, the LCR won my vote :).

Things to look out for:

Wet footwells: front door seals are prone to degrading over time.

Misfire: coilpacks common failure

Boot latch: prone to get stuck where the grease on the latch dries when not used often.

I can't think of anything else right now and to be honest, there really isn't alot wrong with them. The 1.8T is an extremely solid engine and everything else around it is Audi & VW :)
 

JamJay

California Bound
By the way, if you're looking to mod then a remap will get you 250 - 270bhp & equal torque, a stiffened gearbox mount will improve traction greatly & a rear ARB and 10mm spacers will sort the suspension and grip out at the back.
 

evertonmarc

Guest
thanks buddy - that is exactly the kind of response/answer i was looking for.
I knew the engines would be pretty bulletproof (these the Volkswagen engines?).

How about modding? I wouldn't go overboard, but might be tempted into an air filter/induction kit and/or ECU remap. Who are the recommended companys to go to for this?

And lastly, insurance......is there a recommended insurance broker?

Thanks for your response, much appreciated
 

JamJay

California Bound
If you're serious about one you see, check all the boost hoses too, just to be on the safe side as with any turbo car. Oh, and cambelt should be done every 60k or 5yrs so make sure you factor that into your budget if it's near that age or mileage.

Modding is pretty simple really, I had never had a turbo car before mine and I find it simple enough to navigate my way around the engine bay. There are mixed opinions with air filters, some say smooth out the airbox and upgrade the panel filter with larger air feed, some say stick and open cone induction kit on there with a shield (Neuspeed or Jabbasport) and larger air feed. Neither seems to out-perform the other really, just personal opinion really whether you like to hear a dumping noise or not. Of course you could drill the airbox for a louder induction noise somewhere in the middle of the two.

As for ECU remaps, stick to reputable tuners with garage facilities and preferably a Dyno. This would include AMD, P-Torque, APR (at Awesome-GTi), Revo, Jabbasport & Custom Code. Each map is different, some more aggressive than others and some smoother. My AMD map is quite aggressive and I get a huge (addictive) shove from low in the revs but boost tails off earlier than say Custom Code who are renowned for offering a smoother map that's quite progressive and has it's peak boost higher in the revs.

Try Adrian Flux, Chris Knott, Greenlight & Sky Insurance.
 

evertonmarc

Guest
anyone know how much a cambelt costs to have done on the 225 Cupra R?
 

6th.replicant

Active Member
May 29, 2008
698
9
London
Here's a checklist compiled from various posts on this site:

LCR/Leon specific:

Uneven tick-over? Flat spots at 2,500-3,000rpm?

Is the MAF clean?

Engine code on a 225 should be BAM..., for 210s its AMK... Engine code can be found on front offside edge of the engine.

Can you check under the car? Is the under-tray still in place (these often get damaged/torn-off - £100-ish to replace)? Is the splitter present (if not, it's £25-ish at SEAT stealers & 'clip-on' fixing)? Check exhaust brackets are fully intact.

Check bodywork for paint-fade on yellow & blue (non-metallic) LCs/LCRs.

Boot lock work OK? (Simple/cheap fix.)

Evidence of water ingress in boot, under driver's/passenger's floor mats? (Simple/cheap fix.)

Check the rear wiper washer works fine and is not leaking into the boot. (Simple/cheap fix.)

Switch on the aircon and select 'low' for temperature. The radiator fans should come on but at a slow speed when using aircon. If the fans come on fast and loud then on/off then the fan motor resistors have gone.

Do the mirrors fold-in via the adjustment knob (turn to 6 o'clock position). Do they open OK when back to 12 o'clock?

Does the horn work correctly? If its tone is merely a feeble 'peep', then it's a front-bumper-off job to clean, reconnect & reposition (facing rearward) horn.

Does the car have a pukka FULL SERVICE HISTORY (aka FSH)? If not, walk way!

[*EDIT*] If the car has a retro-fit Audi S3 front strut-brace - Leon/LC/LCR & A3/S3 share same chassis - consider that if there isn't also a retro-fit rear strut-brace (a bar across the back seat, fixed to rear strut turrets), then the car will be prone to high-speed understeer (because the front-end will be much stiffer than the rear).

Ask the owner to take you for a drive when the engine is cold; if he/she then thrashes it from cold - walk away! Similarly, if during the drive the engine/turbo is given a good workout, & the owner then switches off without letting the turbo cool-down (ie allowed to idle for approx 60 secs) - walk away!

LCs/LCRs are generally robust & well-built, but can be pricey in the long-run if they've not been maintained or driven correctly.


General used-car checks:

If car is over 5 years old or accumulated 60k miles, it should have had/needs a cambelt change (also change water-pump to brass impeller on VAG 1.8Ts).

Brake pads - much left on them? Discs ok?

When warmed up, put in 6th at 30mph and put your foot down to check for clutch wear.

Gears engage correctly when driving in a spirited fashion (1st and 2nd especially)?

Check for play in steering. Car brakes in straight line/drives in straight line? [*EDIT*] NOTE: some LCs/LCRs can very slightly pull to the left, this is because the alignment setup is for LHD cars, which therefore compensates for driving on the right-side of the road (camber).

Is tyre-wear even? Tyre condition? Are all 4 tyres of the same manufacturer/type? If not, the car's handling will feel unbalanced.

Body alignment, dents, scratches etc. Crouch at rear & front of car & look along sides.

If the bodywork needs a wash, consider that the owner might be trying to conceal paint blemishes or fading (see ref to yellow & blue LCs/LCRs, above).

Any rattles (interior & exterior)?

Check all electrics, windows, fog lights (front & rear) etc, etc.

Fully open and close all the windows and check for any nasty cracking/twanging noises - the cables can snap and unravel inside resulting in the glass falling inside the door. Check that central locking works on all doors. Neither are massively expensive to fix but require stripping down the door and are a bit of a PITA.

Front light adjustment etc.

Scroll through trip computer, you may be able to see how its been driven... (mpg etc)

Check the CD changer & radio works. Check all the speakers work.

Check engine temp doesn't go over 90C.

Ask owner to show you where the oil dipstick is located; if they don't know, then walk away 'cos it means they've never checked, or care about, the oil level...

Engine bay: fluid levels; 'mayo' on inside of oil cap; check dip-stick - is oil level low; is oil old (black & treacle-like)?
 
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evertonmarc

Guest
you sir, are an absolute star!

This will be printed and taken with me i think :)

Forgetting the RS now, will deffo be going for a Cupra-R (just found out the missus likes them!).

I'll keep you all posted once i start looking.
thanks for the feedback
 

evertonmarc

Guest
Guys,

my mate works at a ford garage in Newbury, they had a Cupra-R in as part-ex for a new RS Focus.
Went over to see him and he took me out in it. 29,000 miles, full seat service history (totally standard), think they wanted £9995 but he said it would probably drop by £1000 as it had been there for a while. Good/bad price?

Anyway, he took me out in it......F**k me is it quick :censored:

Bear in mind i did have to try the 195bhp vxr corsa a few weeks ago (tame compared to the Leon).

Totally sold on the car, just got to wait for my money to come through from work. Probably will be too long to purchase this one, but my mind is now made up.....Cupra-R all the way......
 

6th.replicant

Active Member
May 29, 2008
698
9
London
you sir, are an absolute star!

This will be printed and taken with me i think :)

Forgetting the RS now, will deffo be going for a Cupra-R (just found out the missus likes them!).

I'll keep you all posted once i start looking.
thanks for the feedback

Edited/added some points on checklist - see amends.

IMHO, the great thing about the LCR is that not only does it perform like a 'hardcore hot hatch', but when on the motorway at 90-ish it's also quite a civilised cruiser: the front splitter & undertray & the side-skirts make it very stable at speed, plus you can actually hear the radio/CD clearly & converse with passengers without resorting to shouting (unlike a Civic Type-R, for example).

Checkout this road test vid, it's in German but you'll get the gist. Also, note the handling course's fastest laps list at the end...
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x20xkb_seat-leon-cupra-r-18-t_auto

Good luck. :)
 

evertonmarc

Guest
2005 (55 reg)
Hatchback
30,322 miles


Looked in good nick (but then i'm a nab at looking for things like that).
Its one of my best mates from school, so dont think he'd rip me off. Like i said, he thinks they'll drop it by another £1000, so £8995 possibly.

I'll still have another good look around
 
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